Engine problems

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » Mon Oct 23, 2000 9:15 pm

the shaking may be due to the cam which cam dose it have? Some cams make the engine shake more than others.

------------------
vw's don't leak
they mark there
spot!!!

Riotact77 · Post by **Riotact77** » Mon Oct 23, 2000 11:25 pm

Hi, I recently purchased a '66 beetle. It has a early 70's dual port engine that has been modified. The previous owner told me the displacement was 1679cc, and had about 40k on it since the rebuild. I have 3 questions. 1) The engine shakes at idle speed, is this normal? 2)On the intake maniford, the passenger side gets hotter than the driver side. What would cause this?
3) There is is a high pitched ringy noise coming from the engine compartment. What in the world could it be?
Any help with these problems would be more than appreciated.

Y3K · Post by **Y3K** » Tue Oct 24, 2000 12:20 am

If you hear a type of whisteling sound, it could be a cracked cylinder head. I understand this is a problem with twin ports.

Maybe this could then also be the cause of the higher temp on the one side.

Hope I'm wrong.

Kobus (Y3K)

I'm sorts of wrong. It shld read popping noise not whisteling

[This message has been edited by Y3K (edited 10-24-2000).]

Riotact77 · Post by **Riotact77** » Tue Oct 24, 2000 10:46 am

I was told it does have an aftermarket performance cam. Maybe that is the reason it shakes more. Would I have to adjust the valves differently if the cam isn't stock?

Pete S · Post by **Pete S** » Wed Oct 25, 2000 7:05 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Riotact77:
Hi, I recently purchased a '66 beetle. It has a early 70's dual port engine that has been modified. The previous owner told me the displacement was 1679cc, and had about 40k on it since the rebuild. I have 3 questions. 1) The engine shakes at idle speed, is this normal? 2)On the intake maniford, the passenger side gets hotter than the driver side. What would cause this?
3) There is is a high pitched ringy noise coming from the engine compartment. What in the world could it be?
Any help with these problems would be more than appreciated.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

1679cc worries me. Typically, 88mm pistons are not good (prone to overheating). Unless, they are the machine-in kind. But, if machine the case and heads, why not bigger?
Anyway, check compression. Shaking can be from timing off (could explain hot engine). Check that cooling works properly.
Ringy noise? Can't help there.
Find out what kind of cam. Radical cam could cause shaking.
Valve adjustment should be same.

Pete S

SuperBeetle71 · Post by **SuperBeetle71** » Thu Oct 26, 2000 2:29 pm

Sounds like a worn out engine to me

Try and adjust the idle with a tach/dwell meter, this may get rid of the shaking.

Later,
Cody
'71 1302

Riotact77 · Post by **Riotact77** » Thu Oct 26, 2000 5:26 pm

Overall, I think the engine runs strong, but I believe the previous owner's maintenance schedule was sort of dubious. I'm hoping to either do a rebuild or put a new motor in any way. Thanks for all the help. You guys make a newbie feel right at home.

Sharkey · Post by **Sharkey** » Sat Oct 28, 2000 1:40 pm

Running rough at idle? Could be timing or simply a "lumpy" camshaft.

One side running hotter? Perform a compression test or cylinder leak down test to check for leakage (rings, valves, cracked head, whatever). Also check for a vacuum leak on the intake manifold ends.

Ringing sound? Disconnect the fan belt and start the engine up again. Is the sound still there? If so, it could be the crank pulley rubbing on the sheet metal surrounding the pulley. If not, the fan inside the fan shroud could be rubbing inside the shroud. With the belt still off, spin the generator/alternator pulley and listen. There are shims available to space the fan properly within the shroud.

Toine · Post by **Toine** » Tue Nov 07, 2000 12:09 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Pete S:
 1679cc worries me. Typically, 88mm pistons are not good (prone to overheating). Unless, they are the machine-in kind. But, if machine the case and heads, why not bigger?
Anyway, check compression. Shaking can be from timing off (could explain hot engine). Check that cooling works properly.
Ringy noise? Can't help there.
Find out what kind of cam. Radical cam could cause shaking.
Valve adjustment should be same.

Pete S

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Explane me more about these 88mm bore kits because I want to buy these for a 1600ccduel port. This is the maximum diameter I can buy without modify the crankcase. Is this because of the cylinder size?
Is a 87mmbore (1641cc) beter.

[This message has been edited by Toine (edited 11-07-2000).]

Tarnx · Post by **Tarnx** » Tue Nov 07, 2000 8:39 pm

Check your head bolts to be torqued to specs. If good Check your valve lash. If good check your timing. If good check your compression. A sharp ringing sound like a bell or hitting a good piece of metal could mean a loose head . It was a commom problem for people who didn' check the head bolt torque after overhauling an engine.

Sharkey · Post by **Sharkey** » Wed Nov 08, 2000 1:12 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>

Explane me more about these 88mm bore kits because I want to buy these for a 1600ccduel port. This is the maximum diameter I can buy without modify the crankcase. Is this because of the cylinder size?

Is a 87mmbore (1641cc) beter.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

The 88mm cylinders you are referring to are known as "slip-in" cylinders because no machining is required. They are junk. 88mm "machine" cylinder kits were also produced, but I see absolultely no point in paying to machine your heads and case for 88mm P&Cs when you can step up to reliable 90.5 P&Cs.

Stay away from the slip-in 88's. I have never heard anything good about them.