junk yard parts for a arm build

[lawrence0485]

hey for the front spindles, what is the down side of using the front bearing/hub setup off an s10/blazer like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Bl ... ccessories

[KBWAKESK8]

the only thing you need to do is run the stub axel in them to keep tension on the bearings i was also thinking that.

[lawrence0485]

Deleted

[lawrence0485]

Hey for the front setup, would a rear bearing and hub from a front wheel drive car work? I Wonder if it would be strong enough for the abuse, at the same time they are cheap and would be easy to replace? Ricer style brakes would be easy to come by too. It would also be lighter because you wouldn't have to use a stub shaft to hold it together.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVROLE ... 2a0bbec7c2

[turbobaja]

I've been seeing lots of front hub/bearing assemblies on cars like the Cadillac CTS, STS, SRX, etc. that all have optional AWD, but with only RWD equiped, they still run the splined, hallow hub/bearing assemblies up front w/out stubs inside. They look very much like those S10 hubs (3 bolt mounting flange). I know there are hubs that don't like running around w/out stubs torqued down inside of them, and I believe that's the case with those S10 units. I've taken slop out of countless hub/bearing assemblies on FWD Devilles, Sevilles, etc by re-torqueing the axle nuts, no problems. They definately can take a beating. 300+ HP pulling around a 4500++lb boat. Cornering, stopping, pot-holes, etc. That's all with a wheel that has the correct backspacing to center the load on the bearing assembly. But for the front end of a baja or rail, that's probably not an issue since they'll be supporting just a fraction of the weight they were designed to handle. If they can't handle it, all the newer 2WD 1500/2500 chassis run splined front hubs w/out stubs as well, 6 or 8-lug, but probably have more desirable wheel options vs. the metric 5-lug FWD hubs.

[bajaherbie]

cadillac = boat

[lawrence0485]

all the newer 2WD 1500/2500 chassis run splined front hubs w/out stubs as well, 6 or 8-lug, but probably have more desirable wheel options vs. the metric 5-lug FWD hubs.

So we could run these in the front, without stubs? ignore the abs
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PAIR-CHE ... 439deaa29e


Also don't the bigger trucks with IFS use 930's? What i'm getting at is if they do we wouldn't have to modify the stubs for 930's.
If that were true could we just get ahold of an axle shaft like this and disassemble it and put our axles in it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Front-Dr ... 255f9792a6

[KBWAKESK8]

I've been seeing lots of front hub/bearing assemblies on cars like the Cadillac CTS, STS, SRX, etc. that all have optional AWD, but with only RWD equiped, they still run the splined, hallow hub/bearing assemblies up front w/out stubs inside. They look very much like those S10 hubs (3 bolt mounting flange). I know there are hubs that don't like running around w/out stubs torqued down inside of them, and I believe that's the case with those S10 units. I've taken slop out of countless hub/bearing assemblies on FWD Devilles, Sevilles, etc by re-torqueing the axle nuts, no problems. They definately can take a beating. 300+ HP pulling around a 4500++lb boat. Cornering, stopping, pot-holes, etc. That's all with a wheel that has the correct backspacing to center the load on the bearing assembly. But for the front end of a baja or rail, that's probably not an issue since they'll be supporting just a fraction of the weight they were designed to handle. If they can't handle it, all the newer 2WD 1500/2500 chassis run splined front hubs w/out stubs as well, 6 or 8-lug, but probably have more desirable wheel options vs. the metric 5-lug FWD hubs.

thanks for the input
I would like to run 6 lug there are a ton of wheel options

[bugman742002]

be sure to look at the hub assemblies and make sure that they will stay together without the stub axle in it. i had a customer decide to turn his 4wd explorer into a 2wd and as soon as he got it off of the lift it made it about 50 feet before the front hubs fell apart.

[lawrence0485]

I talked to my chevy dealer mechanic friend today and he said that on all IFS 4x4 trucks the outter cv is made into the stub axle shaft, so unless we can machine that part off and drill/tap holes for a 930 then it's out. As far as i know the 4x4 s10 stub is the only one that seperates from the cv like vw's do, excluding what ever bmw axle thats close.


My question is can't we just drill and tap the 930 bolt pattern into the s10 stub, without welding on the flange from a 930 stub?

[KBWAKESK8]

33 spline They sell them for 930 and 934

[lawrence0485]

33 spline They sell them for 930 and 934

Is that just a conversion stub that fits in a T1 bearing housing? If it is a conversion stub would it fit in a s10 bearing/hub? It would give us cheaper and lighter brakes.


Never mind, it's a microstub isn't it? So it would work in an s10 bearing/hub?

[Punchdrunk Monkey]

33 spline They sell them for 930 and 934

Where can one purchase these inexpesively?

[Lotrat]

33 spline They sell them for 930 and 934

Where can one purchase these inexpesively?

Anywhere Empi is sold

PN 16-2310-0 for the 930's
PN 16-2311-0 for the 934's

The 930 part is used in their brake assembly:

[ntsqd]

I recall reading on RDC somewhere, years ago, that the micro-stub wheel bearing assembly was not the S-10 part. I do not recall the exact application listed, but is was a GM fwd car. Might search it and see if you can find that post.
I've long thought that the S-10 part is the natural choice. I'd like to see one dimensionally compared to a known "Micro-Stub" bearing assembly.

I plan to do something similar at the rear using Toyota 4WD IFS parts (not a unit bearing design). Partly for the vented rotors and fixed 4 piston iron calipers (that have dust boots unlike the common 'racing' calipers), and partly for the locking hubs which will allow for easy flat towing. I'll be making some 0.500" thick 7075 T6 adapters from the Toyota 6 lug to the 5 on VW 205 BC.