924 struts

[nunit]

hmm sounds interesting pile anyone know where i can get the kerscher ball joints in the us

[nunit]

well after further inspection it would take to long to fabricate the stuff for my daily and it is a true daily i drive it every day so too much down time so im going to run the modified hubs form vdubengineering( also wont have worry about all the camber issues with porsche strut.) question can i run the et50 porsche boxter rims 16 by 6 with the tapered sprigns from aircooled.net or will i need topline struts

[Jadewombat]

I don't think this will work without serious pan modifications. My '73 is lowered 3/4" in the front from using 220lb. 944 springs, the rear is unchanged and after almost 40 years the car somehow sits level front to rear. If I go any lower I'd have to deal with issues like these:

http://germanlook.net/forums/showthread ... 53&page=67



It handles good and I drive the piss out of it in autocrosses. My front trailing arms right now sit with a slight downward slope from the center to the spindle. The control arms are not level, again if I got any lower I'd probably have to deal with the above handling issues (link).

Translating this to 924/944 a-arm, to be able to mount the single point (circled red) to either the pan (like a rabbit/early Jetta) or the bulkhead (924/944) you'd have to make a mounting point with enough clearance below the car so the a-arm could swivel and not bind on the pan. Now the other mounting point (circled blue) would have to be in-line (level front to rear of the car) with the other mounting point (red). The blue part would be to some mounting point (in space) close to the original inner pivot points of the car but lower and slightly closer to the spindle. If you had the a-arm settings then level or even slightly positive, my guess is because of where you'd have to make these two mounts on underside of the car the result is it's going to raise the front end significantly (like and 1" or 2"). You wouldn't want compensate for ride height by coil settings with the a-arms going negative because it would ride and handle (bump steer) like poop. I could be wrong but a quick mock up with even a cardboard a-arm of the same dimensions to the car should tell you a lot.

[nunit]

any one have pics of bump stops installed on the aluminum trailing arms also will my et 50 16x6 fit up front with tapered spring or am i going to need topline struts.

[Marc]

What aluminum trailing arms?

[nunit]

off 88 924 s

[Marc]

I thought you had abandoned the plan. Why do the control arms need bump stops? That function is typically performed by the McPherson strut's snubber.
I've heard that the aluminum arms aren't favored because they're prone to cracking. The local circletrack guys toss them and install the stamped-steel version.

[nunit]

no im talking about the rear control arms ive currently abandoned it due to down time i drive my car to work everyday and cant have it down for too long but i have bought a junk 74 super for parts that i could use for a mockup

[Marc]

Sorry, I was confused by you asking about the front wheel fitment in the same post. For the answer to that, I'd ask TopLine. Could be it'll depend upon the use of spacers.

If you've got aluminum rear arms with no provision for bump stops, they must be `87-up. Those will add about 2" per side to your rear track compared to the stock VW arms/drum brakes, and require longer drive axles. `85/`86 hubs can be used with them to narrow the track by an inch per side, but the long axles will still be needed. I haven't seen any late aluminum arms modified for bump stops, life is easier if you use the early aluminum arms (or stay with steel, which also can use stock axles).
http://vdubengineering.com/category/technical/

You'll need special "swans" to hook up the VW e-brake cables:
http://vdubengineering.com/uncategorize ... -adapters/

[nunit]

i got the axles with the arms and they are longer so i think im ok there plus ill have the type 2 cvs now (100mm) supposedly stronger cant go wrong there my wheels should be here tuesday so ill be able to fit then. well how did the 944s and 924s keep the suspension from bottoming out? was there a bump stop in the shock or....

[Marc]

I've heard you'll also need Porsche springplates with the aluminum arms - don't know if VW springplates can be altered to fit them. The CVs are the same diameter as Type II, but they're actually Type IV (also Thing). You'd need Thing flanges to run them on the inboard ends with a Type I trans (there are aftermarket flanges too but I can't recommend them).

http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_t ... nd_cvs.htm

I believe that the Porsche rear shocks have integral rubber snubbers, making control arm bump stops superfluous.