Re: Installing deck lid spring

[crvc]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=04dSGwAs ... re=channel

[Marc]

You'll want to tape a towel or shoprag across the top of the lid before you start to prevent scratching the paint.

[crvc]

Now ya tell me...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIVrAUXk ... e=youtu.be

Using my daughter's camera I wanted a photo to show that I'm done, the bug is as good as I can make it. I didn't realize the camera was still on the recording mode. How's it sound?

kevin

[rte592]

Doesnt hurt to drill a couple 1/32" holes in each of the hinges to re-align the deck lid easier.

[ONEBADBUG]

I usually do it without any bolts, because it will stay there on it's own. You don't have to twist things then.

[Marc]

Doesnt hurt to drill a couple 1/32" holes in each of the hinges to re-align the deck lid easier.

That's something that never occurred to me...not as ugly as using a scribe to mark the position. I usually try to avoid removing the engine lid since it doesn't gain you much to do so (most of the folks who do, cut their teeth on Detroit iron so it's the first thing they instinctively go for when it's time to pull the engine) but the next time I need to remove a lid I'll have to give that a try.

[crvc]

Because I don't have a lot of tools and never any help, this is the method I've used to remove that engine a dozen times:

First loosen the rear lug nuts. I've got two chain hoists mounted to ceiling joists in the garage. The car is positioned in the garage under one of the hoists. Remove the engine lid. Use my small floor jack under the engine to raise the car far enough to get a 2X4 under each rear wheel. Then lower the jack and put an 8X8X8 wood block between the jack and engine and raise the body far enough to get jack stands in. Then tie ropes from the engine to the chain hoist. Use the jack to get the motor separated from the tranny. Then with the hoist suspending the motor remove the jack and wood block and lower the engine to the floor. Then take off the rear wheels. Since the body is on jack stands I can slide the engine out the side. Then put the wheels back on and using the floor jack again under the tranny I raise the body enough to get the jack stands out then lower the body til wheels are on the ground. Then roll the car out of the garage. Then slide the motor over to one of the chain hoists, hook it to the motor and raise it high enough to slide a work bench under it and lower it onto the bench. Then I'm ready to start dismantling the engine.

What's critical is getting the engine lid off since I need to tie the motor to the chain hoist and I can't do that with the lid in the way.

kevin

[Marc]

Wow.
Creative, but what a pain!
Most of the rest of the world manages to do it with two floor jacks and maybe some jackstands and dunnage.
Biggest issue I have with your method is that by jacking the entire weight of the rear of the car by the engine you're putting major stress on the rear transmission mounts - it's amazing that you haven't managed to separate them by now.
Some better jack points: Front transmission mount, or the pan just ahead of it with a wood block. Rear torsion housing. Lower rear shock absorber mounts.

[crvc]

I thought about #1 and #2 but there isn't enough room to get my arms, the floor jack and wood block positioned right. For the rear tortion bar housing that's where I put the two jack stands. It would be a lot simpler if I had professional floor jacks and an assistant. I haven't seen my method cause any damage to the tranny mounts. Yet.

kevin

[Marc]

Well, stop doing that. Instead of jacking the car up by the engine, see if you can put a ~2' length of 2x6 across the underside of the frame horns just forward of the rear mount bracket and get your floor jack under that. If you only need an extra inch or so, roll the tires up onto some boards to make more room for the jack.
IMO, if you're going to be doing anything beyond minor maintenance on an ACVW you need to have a minimum of two floor jacks - even if one of them is only a $25 Harbor Freight P.O.S.

[Jim Ed]

Well, stop doing that. Instead of jacking the car up by the engine, see if you can put a ~2' length of 2x6 across the underside of the frame horns just forward of the rear mount bracket and get your floor jack under that. If you only need an extra inch or so, roll the tires up onto some boards to make more room for the jack.
IMO, if you're going to be doing anything beyond minor maintenance on an ACVW you need to have a minimum of two floor jacks - even if one of them is only a $25 Harbor Freight P.O.S.

I use large and medium floor trolley jacks to remove my engine on my 1973 Beetle.
I lift the rear of the Beetle with the large trolley jack positioned under the dimple near the wishbone part of the frame.
I jack it up just high enough for me to get under and put it on large jack stands.
After I drain the oil and undo nearly everything except the bottom two 17 mm nuts, I position the medium sized trolley jack under the sump plate. I use it to lower the engine.
Then I use the large trolley jack to raise the rear high enough for me to slide the engine out.
For some swing axles the procedure may be different.

[crvc]

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j47/k ... G_2694.jpg

Thanks for the notes. I looked at the Harbor website. That $25 floor jack only goes 13" high. I need the body at least 19" to get jack stands in and be able to slide the motor out the side. Plus if the motor is on a second jack I'd need to raise the body another 6" or more to get the jack and motor out from under. I never considered putting my jack that far forward but I'll try it if the engine has to come out again. But I'll continue to use the chain hoists rather than have two floor trolleys taking up space. Hopefully the photo shows I don't have a lot of room for more toys.

kevin

[Marc]

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