I've joined the ranks

[Stray Catalyst]

Time and money are mutually exclusive, it seems. I made a little money selling the westy, and have more parts for my 64 bus... now I don't have time to install them. Keep at it! Some day, before hell freezes over, both of us need to meet with our eternal projects running.

Stray

[Sneaks]

Definitely. So, after months of false starts, I'm hopefully going to get into getting this thing sorted out tomorrow. On tap is replacing the injector, tune up and then trying to figure out why the hell it won't idle.

[fusername]

do you have an analog volt meter?

[Sneaks]

Only a digital one. Why?

[ajdenette]

I have an analog volt meter around it is my fathers from when he was our age

[fusername]

to test out the AFM. Digital won't cut it. need to find that damn dead spot if you got one, then the real fun begins.

[Sneaks]

dead spot seems to be right at the beginning of the sweep. If I use something to move the wiper just past the stop, it will idle all day long.

[ajdenette]

What you need to do is pull the black cover off the top of the wiper box and try to re bend the wiper arm so that it will sweep across a new section of the resistive track.

[fusername]

you can do that, but I think that is the most dangerous way of fixing it. the wiper arm pressure has a very specific value, I knew a guy who personally QA'd those types of assemblies for many years. There is a better fix!

you need to loosen the circuit board and move it a mm or two in a direction, then reset ur AFM to tune at this new setting, and its like a brand new box.

[Sneaks]

I'll try this over the weekend (hopefully). Seems like every time I get a plan to work on it, the DD decides I need to work on it instead. I think it's jealous...

[Sneaks]

Spent most of the day replacing a waterpump in the son's Jeep but just before sunset fired it up and drove it to the driveway. It does run, just not that happy on 3 cylinders and have to stay on the gas to keep it running. Tomorrow I dive in. On the agenda:

Replace injector
Find vacuum leak
change oil (!!!!!)
Do tune up (points, condensor, cap, rotor, plugs & wires)
replace drivers CV boot
Replace all bulbs and clean up sockets
clean up interior and lay down bedliner on the floor

[Sneaks]

IT'S ALIVE!

Replace #3 injector plus the seals on the other 3, replaced the line from the manifold to the booster one-way valve, changed the oil and filter, replaced plugs (the rest of the ignition looked good so instead of inviting trouble, I left it alone and just put the parts in my emergency kit), cleaned the AFM and adjusted the wiper. It now runs and idles:)

Also got 4 new tires, will mount them once I do the paint. Welded up the exhaust and took it for a spin around the neighborhood. WOOT!!!

Hopefully will be on the road and legal by T-fest:)

[Sneaks]

Ok, hit a snag. Went over to the house today and decided to fire the bus up just cuz I could. It started and idled beautifully for about 3 seconds, then the speed dropped to just barely turning over. It stayed running, responded normally to throttle changes but when I let off the gas, it almost dies 50% of the time (and dies completely the other 50%) and then returns to that slow idle. Changing the idle screw does very little. Smooths it out a bit but still has that slow idle, even when up to temperature. I've checked everywhere I can think of for vacuum leaks, the injectors spray a nice cone and the flow test gave me 1.75l in 60 seconds (that JD bottle came in handy:)). I assume the first 3-5 seconds is showing the cold start valve is working properly. I've tried adjusting the timing, broke down and replaced the points (kept the old one cuz it still looks good). All new lines, filter, pump, injector seals, etc. Adjusting the bypass screw out will stall it. I've pulled the booster valve in case that was leaking, no change (and I have to pull it again cuz i put back in the wrong way and now I have no vacuum assist...duh). I did fuser's suggestion of shifting the board in the AFM and that helped eliminate the no-idle issue. I put new plugs in and they are sooty black so it's running rich which is the opposite of what I thought would happen if I have a vacuum leak unless my mind is reversed. I'm thinking there must be SOMETHING I'm missing. HELP?

[fusername]

You are gonna need to reset mixture since you have been playing in the AFM box. it is not the easiest thing to do, but better now then enver.

FOR THE LOVE OF ALL THIGNS HOLY WRITE DOWN THE CHANGES YOU MAKE. Let me stress that. While the AFM is very adjustable, you have to rememver it is very adjustable, and you can easily wander far from the reservation and be super lost finding your way back. Read up on diagnosing the AFM, there are a few readings you can take with a multi meter to get a baseline, adn then there are 3 or 4 adjustments availbale to you within the box iirc.

OR you can cheat, come on down here with your AFM, and we will set it so that it is comparable to mine that works, and hten you can use that as the starting point for your tune.

[Sneaks]

Yay. NOT. Thanks for the info. I've been doing a lot of reading and there's so much conflicting advice my head is spinning. Adjust the big cog. Don't adjust using big cog. Adjust using the little wiper gear. Don't adjust using the little wiper gear. Now I'm scared. Wrong move and I'm too lean at WOT and upper RPMs. Not that I'm going to do a lot of highway driving with this but I do want to take it to Tfest and that means 1-2 hours on I-95. Really don't want to be cooked in the middle of MA. Judging from the way it idles immediately after start with the CSV in play (I assume that my observation was correct), I'd say I was lean to begin with? But my plugs say otherwise. Maybe I should get new plugs again and take another reading before tackling? How much of a difference is there with my EGR disabled (pipe crimped off) but still mounted? Probably should get a pic of it today so you can see what I mean, huh?