Just finished rebuilding my type 4 engine and automatic trani. Got it put in and all hooked up. turned the key and nada, nothing not a thing. anyone out there who can suggest help. When I first turned it over last month, the starter worked fine, but it slipped a bearing (that's the last time I trust the machine shop to do the bearings) and the thing froze up. Any suggestions? I'm a single mom, and I've never done more than change the oil on a car. This was a challenge, but I love this car and can't think rationally.
------------------
Sara
m504specs@hotmail.com
I'm new and trying really hard to do it right.
-
m504specs
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2001 12:01 am
-
ray greenwood
- Posts: 1941
- Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2001 12:01 am
I\'m new and trying really hard to do it right.
Is it fuel injected? If yes..check the three ground wire bundles under the hood. they will be on the left side of the case centerline..right under the air distributor in the center of the engine. Three sets of double wires all going to one point where the case bolts together. If it does not turn over at all, and you are getting the oil and alternator light on the dash, either the key switch is bad (doubt it if it worked last month) or the neutral safety switch is disconnected at the transmission...or the automatic shifter cable is out of adjustment and is not engaging the safety switch (real common) or the long wire...going to the starter from the front of the car...has pulled loose (really really common) or the ground strap on the nose of the transmission where the transmission contacts the frame...is not connected. If it just turns over...and doesn't start...listen for the fuel pump buzz when you turn on the key...if no buzz...check that the small positive (red) wire has not fallen off under your seat (common)..also..check that the other end of this same red wire...on the right hand side of the engine compartment is connected. It goes into a forked connector by the injectors...one fork to the starter...one fork to the gas heater relay and the FI relay. Also if no fuel pump buzz...look under the dash by your right knee and look to see if the wires are still on the relay you see there. Also under the front of the car...make sure that the plug going into the fuel pump is still there...wiggle it! Let me know..Lots of possibilities...hmmmm ....a single mom....into 411/412's.....damn! gotta stop having these fantasies at work! hee hee! Ray
-
Roland Kunz
- Posts: 177
- Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2001 12:01 am
I\'m new and trying really hard to do it right.
Hello
If you like you would prefer to contact woman car mechanics send me a note.
kunzrolo@web.de
Grüsse
If you like you would prefer to contact woman car mechanics send me a note.
kunzrolo@web.de
Grüsse
-
m504specs
- Posts: 31
- Joined: Fri Aug 31, 2001 12:01 am
I\'m new and trying really hard to do it right.
Ok, so I now have starter turning the engine, but it's not kicking over. I had the wires on the two smaller terminals reversed. If the starter is turning the engine, could something be wrong with it anyway, and how do I test that.
I'm not sure what to do next. The coil has the right resistance, the plugs are new, the injectors are firing in a nice spray pattern, the fuel pump is giving me a lovely 28 pounds, and the points and condenser are shiny and new. Could I have missed something?
It seems to me to be an electrical problem. I followed the diagram in the book for putting in the distributor, but could the book be wrong? The narrow side of the little doodad in the engine is angled slightly (about 12 degrees) from the case midline. It's to the left of the block midline (facing the torque converter), and the fatter side is next to the midline of the block.
Could I be missing some sensor or other? What else could I check? How do you test the main relay on the computer box? And where the heck is the engine speed relay? The trani was just expertly rebuilt, so I doubt it's adjusted wrong.
I am very frustrated. I thought I would just put that sucker in, hook up the wires and hoses and it would fire right up. AAAAAAAgh.
------------------
Sara
m504specs@hotmail.com
I'm not sure what to do next. The coil has the right resistance, the plugs are new, the injectors are firing in a nice spray pattern, the fuel pump is giving me a lovely 28 pounds, and the points and condenser are shiny and new. Could I have missed something?
It seems to me to be an electrical problem. I followed the diagram in the book for putting in the distributor, but could the book be wrong? The narrow side of the little doodad in the engine is angled slightly (about 12 degrees) from the case midline. It's to the left of the block midline (facing the torque converter), and the fatter side is next to the midline of the block.
Could I be missing some sensor or other? What else could I check? How do you test the main relay on the computer box? And where the heck is the engine speed relay? The trani was just expertly rebuilt, so I doubt it's adjusted wrong.
I am very frustrated. I thought I would just put that sucker in, hook up the wires and hoses and it would fire right up. AAAAAAAgh.
------------------
Sara
m504specs@hotmail.com
-
ray greenwood
- Posts: 1941
- Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2001 12:01 am
I\'m new and trying really hard to do it right.
Sara...I forgot ask, what year is this car..exactly. Does it have D-type (pressure sensor) injection. I suspect it does if you are getting 28 psi. The main relay will click if someone turns on the key. If you can turn on the key...reach over and open the throttle slowly...you should hear about 10 little clicks from the injectors. If you open it quick it sounds like a zipper. That will tell you that your injection system is getting power..and therefore the relay is not suspect. On D-type injection...there is no engine speed relay. The diagram you may be looking at in the book...is probably a diagrammatic layout of the ECU...and shows engine speed in a little box in the center. This is internal to the brain. Also, check to see that the pcv hose going to the center of the manifold from the oil breather is hooked up. Lastly....on the left hand side of the motor...between the two injectors... a wire should be coming out from the sheet metal. It has to be hooked up correctly with no damage. It is the cylinder head temp sensor. If it is not hooked up, or is damaged...the engine will get fuel...initially, spark...but will not do more than cough. Ray
-
Roland Kunz
- Posts: 177
- Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2001 12:01 am
I\'m new and trying really hard to do it right.
Hello
Check if your disributor is set correct to TDC #1 and has a correct timing. TDC is shown as a mark on the fan. Must remove the plug in the midle ( unscrew ) and maybe use a flashlight.
Now do you have D-Jet or L-Jet ?
Grüsse
Check if your disributor is set correct to TDC #1 and has a correct timing. TDC is shown as a mark on the fan. Must remove the plug in the midle ( unscrew ) and maybe use a flashlight.
Now do you have D-Jet or L-Jet ?
Grüsse