Vent Wing Window Seal Installation

[Allyn]

Hi;
I've spent about 16 hours trying to install the vent wing seals. Does anyone out there have a good solution or the contact information for someone who i can pay to do it? This is by far the most frustrating thing i have undertaken on my bug to date. Would anyone recommend 3M weatherstripping adhesive? I am nervous about using it in case i need to re-install a new seal - and the cleanup of the frame chanels would be a mess.

Thanks,

Allyn

[Steve Arndt]

I did mine two years ago with the help of a friend that has many years of experience. Which part of the puzzle are you at now? I think there are a few videos on youtube showing the process.

Getting the whole assembly back into the door is even more of a PITA than installing the vent wing frame seal.

[Allyn]

Hi Steve,
I have drilled out the pivot rivet and installed the flap seal into the vertical channel. I push the wing seal into the channel as best I can, but it doesn't seam to stay in place. After installing a new pivot rivet and when I try to close the window it becomes obvious that the bulk of the seal prevents the wing from closing - a gap of about 1/2 inch. I just can't get the seal to push into the channel anymore?

Allyn

[Steve Arndt]

Are you using West Coast Metric seals?

What is your location? Your profile is empty/blank.

[Allyn]

I'll go update my profile.

I am using what were told me to be OEM from JBugs. I cannot validate the quality.

Allyn

[Marc]

I wouldn't be too hasty to blame the part. Back in 1968 I locked the keys in my month-old `69 while skiing and broke the passenger vent window with a pole to get in (not realizing back then that a rear side window would've been the better choice). I got a brand new seal and glass from the dealer and set about trying to get it in right...I had the same problem, but lacking your persistence I gave up after about an hour and settled for trimming away the excess seal with a razor blade. It stayed like that for about 25 years until the door rusted out at the sound-deadening pad and I replaced it before repainting the car...never leaked, just didn't look quite right (of course I was the only one who noticed).
If I were to do it again, I'd goop the heck out of it with dishwashing detergent, then bind the glass in with tape for a day or two...once the dish soap dries it becomes quite sticky, yet it's easier to clean up than the adhesives.

[Steve Arndt]

My new seals from WCM were also a bit too thick but they are working. It flexes out the bottom by the lock/latch and torques the glass at a 1/16" or so out. I push on it every time I walk by closing it a bit more. After two years they are almost perfect...

[Allyn]

Thanks for the replies. Last night during the hockey game i got out the vent wing, several zip ties, and some 3M weather strip adhesive. I thought I was going to fix it or ruin it - one or the other.

I slowly pressed the seal into place and then immediately applied a sip tie to hold it there. I proceeded this way until i came to the end of the seal - and fortunately it sended smack dab where it was supposed to. I then applied the 3M glue into the irreguolarly spaced holes along the frame (opposite side of the gasket). My hope was that the spot glue application will keep the seal in place long enough to reinstall the glass and pivot rivit.

When i get home tonight I will find out if it worked. Fingers crossed!

Allyn

[Steve Arndt]

You can use a small stainless bolt and nylock not in place of the rivet. It looks almost stock and lets you crank it down just right without over pinching it like the rivet sometimes does.

[Buggin_74]

Problem with using a bolt there is it makes it very easy to break in as anyone can just undo the nut and bolt.

When ever I replace the seal I always drill out the 2 rivets that hold the hinge to the outer frame.
They only need normal 1/8th rivets and are hidden inside the door when its all back together.

[SCOTTRODS]

Problem with using a bolt there is it makes it very easy to break in as anyone can just undo the nut and bolt.

When ever I replace the seal I always drill out the 2 rivets that hold the hinge to the outer frame.
They only need normal 1/8th rivets and are hidden inside the door when its all back together.

I don't know of anything short of a garage, that makes a bug Theft resistant... They're Easy to break into, no matter what "Rivet" you use... The best way would be to put a solid wing glass in that is stationary and will not hinge at all... anywhere.

If Securtiy is number one... I recommend buying a car that NO ONE wants, and has little or no parts value... A hugo or something similar...


Just sayin'

[Buggin_74]

Well yes true but anything you can do to minimise the risk the better.


The last time I locked my keys in at a service station I just popped my back side window out and reached in to unlock the door.
I had the window back in before anyone even noticed what I'd done

[Steve Arndt]

Buggin_74,
Thanks for the reminder. My friend that helped me with my windows actually did the two smaller rivets as well. The ones that are hidden under the rubber seal. As I recall that allows you to leave the big pivot rivet alone and not mess with it.

Having done this job once in 1996, and the second time in 2011 I forget the little details.

[Buggin_74]

No worries, I knew I'd have to get the special rivet for it if I did the pivoting one so it seemed the easy way to go.

I did mine when I resprayed it which was in 2001 and they've been fine since.

[rockdoc]

My new seals from WCM were also a bit too thick but they are working. It flexes out the bottom by the lock/latch and torques the glass at a 1/16" or so out. I push on it every time I walk by closing it a bit more. After two years they are almost perfect...

I agree with Steve and above post. I did mine last summer and was "positive" I had been sent the wrong seals. Really frustrating. I used Sunlight detergent on seals and my trusty heat gun, (careful), to make it more pliable when inserting into tracks. Once I got it installed and closed, the first 5-10 open / shut sequences were incredibly hard to close but over time they have become easier and easier. One upside is .... they don't leak Lol. Don't recommend cutting. Patience required. My 2 bits.