Off-and-on grinding tranny

[crvc]

I have a '67 bug on a '74 chassis. I have grinding when trying to get into first gear. I tightened the clutch cable so there's less than an inch of play in the pedal. That helped somewhat. But still grinds going into first gear first thing in the morning and lately grinds when going into first gear at stoplights If I move the shifter REALLY SLOWLY I can hear the gears slowing enough to engage the gear.

I had the engine out recently and saw the clutch disc is still quite thick. The clutch springs are still very strong.

I adjusted the carb so idle speed is extremely low--both idiot lights are on--but it still grinds. Searching I see that fiddling with the shift lever could help but I haven't had to adjust it in the ten years I've owned this bug. I'm worried something is messed up inside the tranny.

I took it for a three-our drive last week and other than vapor lock had no problems; once it's in gear it runs like a new car.

I've never needed to do tranny work so I don't know anything about the innards.

Any suggestions?

TIA,

kevin

[Marc]

Clutch isn't releasing fully, or there's drag on the mainshaft from the pilot bearing in the gland nut. You've stated elsewhere that the disk wasn't contaminated when you replaced the front seal & O-ring; assuming that's true there could still be a problem with a tweaked (bent upon engine installation) disk, or insufficient travel of the release bearing...the latter can be caused by a collapsing Bowden tube, broken weld on the cable conduit through the tunnel, frayed/stretching cable, cross-shaft problem (worn splines, weld failing on a cradle arm), etc.
It's hard on the First gear synchro to drive it like this, the lesser evil would be even less pedal freeplay (so long as there is some freeplay, the release bearing life won't be adversely affected) - try tightening the cable some more, say ½" freeplay, and see if the drag goes away. Since there's no synchro on Reverse, a good indicator is being able to shift into reverse with the engine running.

[crvc]

Thanks for the note. Since I'll be pulling the engine out to replace the oil cooler I'll be able to check the Bowden tube, clutch, etc. My dad said to check the fork that holds the throwout bearing. Is that the cradle arm?

kevin

[Marc]

...My dad said to check the fork that holds the throwout bearing. Is that the cradle arm?...

Yep. On the earlier small-diameter cross-shafts it wasn't uncommon for the forks to come loose where welded on. Not as likely on a `73, but still something to check.
Also look at the input shaft; polish the end where it goes into the pilot bearing if needed, lube the bearing and work it with your pinky to ensure that it's turning freely. Slide the clutch disc onto the splines - if it sticks, apply a mild abrasive paste (kitchen cleanser and water will do) and work the disc back & forth until it moves freely, then clean off.

[RHough]

Until you have it out to look at the clutch you can go old school and use 2nd to stop the trans before shifting into 1st or Reverse. From Neutral just pop it into second to stop the input shaft, then drop it into first. First > Rev or Rev > First should be okay unless the clutch is really FUBAR.

[crvc]

Someone mentioned that back-channel. It worked at first but now it's grinding even going into reverse gear. Hopefully I'll be able to pull the engine this weekend.

kevin