1972 Beetle rear disc conversion & upgrade rear Suspension

[Piledriver]

Were German bugs IRS or SA?
(In usa 68+ were all IRS, but elsewhere it could go either way)

The black urethane moly/graphite filled bushings work well, the red ones squeak after awhile.
Sold by Energy Suspension, most of the VW bits are made by Prothane.

The "spacer" referred to earlier lives between the inner rear bearings to keep them from getting damaged from the 217 ft lb spec tq on that big nut. I jump up and down on a 24" 2"x1" steel bar welded to a socket, 500++ ft lb is probable.
Have never had any issues tightening it that way except with a Chinese nut once.(a friend lost his nut)
It left all its threads on the stub axle, no damage to the OG stub axle at all.

Cheap axle nuts can also cause "loosening" issues.
The OG ones that are 40+ years old are probably as good as anything you can buy.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Neil, I think it is time to do some investigation of the condition of your parts.

If you have IRS then as 'pile said, look at the longer center spacer for it to have crushed. They are of a comparitiely soft metal so after time the metal can fatigue so the ends start to flair and the spacer gets shorter. I have had that happen myself.

I would also look at the threads on the stub axle to look for indications of stretching; the same with a swing axle's threads, both can age and soften up after all the torquing done to them. If everything checks out then maybe try (at your own risk) for a torque of 300#s. A fair amount of guys do run that and sometimes more.

If you are constantly having to re-torque then there is a problem somewhere and you had better find what is causing it to happen before what ever it is lets you down... probably at the most inoppertune time. Also remember that you can be tearing up other components also.

Lee

[Piledriver]

Any looseness tends to cause the splines in the hub of the drum to turn to dust, until it just spins freely.
Can also beat up the stubs splines.

Of course if the nut comes off, the now free rear wheel has been known to pass you on the freeway.
That's bad, and potentially lethal for you and others.

Please don't ignore it.

[rrb6699]

If the axle nut keeps loosening up, you may have a spacer that is crushing. If so, you will need to replace the spacer to be able to keep the nut tight.

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ok, is there a diagram of the rear axle for my '72 that shows these spacers and procedure for taking the rear axle apart to replace the spacers? I can probably just start taking it apart, but, always nice to have diagram and / or procedure. thanks.
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I will look for those bushings. I want front and rear bushings to tighten things up. so, all I need is to order IRS type bushings for my year beetle I take it for the rear.

same type of front bushings from Energy Suspension. sorry, but what are "bits" made by Prothane?

the diagram would help me with checking the stub axle.

I still want to raise the rear of the bug and leave the front height as is. the shocks on the front are adjustable and low as they go. I can only adjust those shocks up.

my e-brake brake button popped out but, I found a procedure on YouTube to re-attach it.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

This is the inner spacer: it has a bevel in it that faces the CV mounting flange of the stub axle. The flat edgesurfaces is where the inner axle seal rides.



This is the inner spacer which is softer than the inner and outer spacer. It goes between the inner and outer bearings to keep the races of the bearings from being pushed towards each other when torque is applied.



This is the outer spacer: the bevel faces the inner race of the outer wheel bearing. Its outside surface if where the outer seal rides.

I hoe this makes sense.

Order of taking the stub axles apart"

Remove the cotter pin.

Remove the axle nut.

Remove the brake drum.

Disconnect the brake line and e-brake cable from the brake assemble.

remove the backing plate and assembly by taking out the 4 bolts that holds the casting that holds the seal. Notice the direction the drip hole (not used for that anymore) faces.

remove the outer spacer and notice which way it faces. Wipe clean.

Remove the outer wheel bearing. Keep it clean or if it needs to be repacked then it should be done during reassembly.

About this time you can put the axle nut on the stub axle then using a rubber softly drive the stub axle to the inside of the trailing arm.

When the stub axle is removed the longer center spacer will fall down into the trailing arm. Remove and clean.

You probably don't need to go any farther but if you do then, from the other side of the trailing arm remove the inner spacer.

Remove the seal.

Remove the snap ring.

Remove the inner bearing keeping it clean and/or planning on replacing it before reassembly.

viewtopic.php?t=110857&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

Part way down this post there is a chart for lowering you bug; the same chart works for raising your bug also.



This is from memory and, I hope, it is in the right order.

[Piledriver]

As far as I can tell ALL the Energy Suspension ACVW bits are made by Prothane.
(says so in the catalog)
Just order the black ones. Same price as the red ones that squeak.

[rrb6699]

ok, thanks loads for any & all the help guys. really appreciated. got a lot goin on with this bug plus gonna sand & paint it. is there a link to this catalog?

I'm about to take another reading on MPG next fill up to see how it's doing around town. it got 30mpg on a 120mi. round trip a few weeks ago. that mostly highway doing 70mph in a few stretches.

[helowrench]

All,
Before the drum is removed, use the parking brake to hold everything while you loosen the 6 cv joint bolts, and swing it out of the way.
rrb6699, this is a "triple square" bit, and available at your FLAPS, I bought mine at Autozone, in a pack of different sizes for European vehicles.

If you have never done that before, a tip is to use a pick, of small flathead, and clean the bolt heads out, then tap the bit into the bolt head with a socket to ensure it is fully seated before trying to loosen.

[Piledriver]

I have used this reseller with great service:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/pr ... eetle_1972
(im dangerously assuming you have a std beetle with irs)

Just a happy repeat customer.

[rrb6699]

should I take some pics of the rear or is it likely my '72 is IRS? I can if u want. I'm pretty sure it is IRS.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Here is a composite drawing of the two types of transaxles that were in the ACVWs. Hope it helps but posting pictures is seldom wrong.

Lee

[ALYKAT III]

All,
Before the drum is removed, use the parking brake to hold everything while you loosen the 6 cv joint bolts, and swing it out of the way.
rrb6699, this is a "triple square" bit, and available at your FLAPS, I bought mine at Autozone, in a pack of different sizes for European vehicles.

If you have never done that before, a tip is to use a pick, of small flathead, and clean the bolt heads out, then tap the bit into the bolt head with a socket to ensure it is fully seated before trying to loosen.

This is VERY GOOD advice. Please pay attention as it will save a lot bad language ! I actually bought a set of the "TS" bits at a Harbor Freight and they have held up for years so far. Mostly because I use the procedure described.

[rrb6699]

looks like I'll have to fix my parking brake button.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Depending on which manual you have the torque reading on the CV cap screws is either 25#s or 32#s. Use the latter over the former; I had them back out on me in less that a mile when I used the 25# setting.





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[Ol'fogasaurus]

looks like I'll have to fix my parking brake button.

(sigh) If it isn't one thing it is another.