66 1500DP ray jay turbo

[66NCVW]

EDIT: I've now decided to build my own setup from scratch. Research time


Thanks in advance everyone. I'll get some pics of the car up asap I'm stoked!

[petew]

Hi there and welcome to STFFI! Great to see another one of us having a go with a mouse motor. I'm working on an EFI/turbo DP1600 at the mo myself.

In terms of good advice and ideas, a great place to start would be by reading Clonebug's thread on his blowthrough 1600...
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127936
He started with a stock carb and blow through setup and has progressed. You'll find lots of ideas there about most of your questions.

One thing that stands out to me as I look at your kit there is the twin carbs. Dual 40mms would be kinda overkill on a stock atmo 1500. I could be wrong, but I tend to think it will be total overkill with a turbo. The other thing to think about is the size of the turbo. You're likely to want something small so boost comes in close to idle and it's not too peaky. I don't know how big your Rayjay is, but I ended up with quite a small turbo off a Subaru 2 litre. It's about a GT15 sizewise.

[madmike]

WelKome to the 'Madness'
Pete those carbs will work great for his 1500 DP, unless the vents are huge?

[kangaboy]

Are upgraded valve springs a must? If you don't have a counterweighted crankshaft, I don't think you will/should be able to rev it over 5k rpm anyway.

[66NCVW]

Thanks guys! From what I'm told the setup came off of a 1600DP motor. After more and more reading, I'm wondering if I should go draw thru instead? I haven't handed over the cash for this setup just yet and don't want to make a mistake. I figure I will have to do some fine tuning so I'm definitely going to get a wideband. As for the valve springs, if it runs 8-10lbs of boost, I don't think the stock springs could hold the valves open very well so it's cheap insurance.

[Clonebug]

I ran 13 lbs on stock springs........HD's won't hurt though.

How much are they asking for the kit???
I use Subaru turbo's that I pay no more than $60.00 for.
Build my own intake and header inlets.

That is an old turbo and you can get new technology from wrecked cars that will perform much better.

[66NCVW]

EDIT: I've decided to build my own setup so I will be starting from scratch. Research time

[petew]

#like

[madmike]

x2

[E_bug]

Good luck and may the force be with you

[rubenski]

Watch out for the turbo path, it MAY be covered with cracked pistons, broken rings, floating valves and short dollars

Haha, enjoy en tell us all about it!

[66NCVW]

Still reading and researching. So many combinations my brain hurts lol. Does anyone have a recommendation for a header that will work in a full body sedan, I don't have a buggie or rail and would like to at least see the apron, however to minimize expense I'm trying to shy away from the cb header that tucks the turbo in the apron area.

[Clonebug]

Not too many choices but to use a CB Performance header which has to be modified to use any turbo other than the T-3/T-4 or to build or modify your own.
Either that or you just build your own.

There are a lot of thing that will determine the header shape of which can be turbo, clocking of turbo, header tube size, turbo size, turbo position, intercooler use or not and a myriad of other choices all of which have an effect on the end result.

Seems to me if you are going to use a junkyard turbo you might as well build your own header since it will involve welding tubing no matter what.

Great Plains Aircraft has a really nice starter kit in 2 or 3 sizes of tubing that I would probably use if I had to build my whole header.
They even have a decent priced collector.

http://www.greatplainsas.com/scexhaustparts.html

That has been one of my projects down the road but the system I have has been working pretty good so no sense spending a bunch on a different header at this time.

If you don't mind putting a fairly sharp "one eighty" out of the collector I'll bet you could probably utilize a standard sedan header like I have done.
If you do a 180 and then go up into a turbo tucked up against the rear cooling tin and apron you might make it work cheaply.

Getting a turbo clocked correctly and draining the oil is usually a challenge.

It really is much different than what you would have had to do to get that kit you were looking at to work.

If you do the work yourself you will be intimate with the build and be able to troubleshoot and or tackle any part of it after building the exhaust and intake system.