914 - 6 dry sump tank

[Passatman]

Does anyone know where i can get a 914-6 dry sump tank to buy.

[perrib]

patrickmotorsports.com for a repo. Not cheap, have you tried looking on Porsche forums for a used one. An 8 quart universal one might be cheaper.

[Passatman]

I looked at patrick racing website and didn't see any stock 914-6 dry sump units i only saw the aftermarket 4 gallon sump. I will check ladismantlers and see if they have anything.

[aircooledtechguy]

http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/part/ ... onversion/

[Passatman]

Thanks aircooledtechguy. I called laporschedismantlers this morning and they said they had the 993 tank for $750.

[Piledriver]

You might search for 914 dry sump tank on ebay?
You can buy one now for $599 brand new. (repro)

Still insanely expensive for that they are... You can buy a decent welder, gas bottle and related kit and take classes for less than one decent repro oil tank.

There was an aluminum repro version made that was beautiful awhile back, nice piece.
The one on ebay is also aluminum. Factory units were steel, and prone to rust, often from the inside.

Are you actually building up a 914 passatman? The 914-6 tank is pretty 914-specific, its skinny, designed to fit under the front of the drivers side rear fender, and lines up with specific stamped-in places to put holes just like the factory did.

Like any OEM tank, Its not ideal for ~anything else, and is pricey. The rest of the OE parts to hook up to it will run another ~$200+. A good, used ARCA/NASCAR take-apart so you can clean it tank can be had for a fraction of that, and it will have std AN fittings on it already.

It seldom makes financial sense to use Porsche parts in anything other than the Porsche they fit in.
Even then it usually hurts.

[Passatman]

Morning Pile. I want to use it on my beetle. I want to go dry sump on my engine. To tell you the truth i don't really like the round tanks.

[Piledriver]

Round actually works better for getting the air out of the oil etc.

[Passatman]

I just don't like where they put the round tank in the beetle. I have read that if the round tank is placed higher than the engine the oil will flow back to it. Pile if the porsche wasn't good then why have porsche used this tank for so many years.

[Piledriver]

It was designed to be completely hidden in the body of the car, its not designed the way it is due to any other reason.
It won't fit anything else gracefully, and is stupid expensive because its for a Porsche.
They don't cost what they do because of fabulous internal design, they work OK and FIT what they are designed to fit.

If you are dry sumping a 914, it makes sense to use that tank as it fits, there is a place to bolt it in and hook up the plumbing, even though you have to cut out some (factory stamped to suit) areas.

You could probably fabricate a reasonable tank to fit under the R rear fender on a Beetle, sort of like the autostick tank but larger.(might be able to stretch an autostick tank?)

The most logical place for a round tank (or even a tallish narrow rectangular one) on most ACVWs would be just ahead of the engine, behind the R axle, fill through the luggage tray or such. You would have to be darned certain not to toss a CV joint... I have seen them installed in the frunk even on Porsches, but I have severe doubts how well that can work.

On a T3 behind the axle is about as close as you can get, unless you crowd the air channels in the rear fenders, or go tall/flat and skinny in the forward area of the rear fenders.

[Passatman]

Ok Pile i will probably take a look at the autostick oil tank.

[aircooledtechguy]

I'm getting ready to dry sump my type3 hopefully over the winter. I would highly recommend that you build your own tank and not adapt a Porsche tank for all the reasons Pile mentioned. I'm going to be using a retired Richardson Racing NASCAR tank under the rear seat area (I'm not running a rear seat). That will keep it low so flow-back won't be an issue. For my situation having a type4 motor, the engine mount bar mounts have been the problem, but I think I've got that issue solved.

[Passatman]

Well aircooledtechguy. I am thinking about making the tank but i will have to do some research on how the internals should look. I need the tank to do exactly what it's suppose to do.

[Matt Mariani]

I just bought a CB750 oil tank for $16 with fast and free shipping. I like RHough's idea of using the small 3 quart CB750 oil tank very much.

I've got the 912 body about ready so it's time to revisit all of this Dry Sump tech for my 2056 cc Type IV..

I made my -12 'trombone' cooler and tested it with compressed air to 140 psi (with soapy water), no leaks. I plan to use one of Earl's oil thermostats as seen in my drawing without without the CB performance DS pump.

Odd (and maybe dumb) question for you guys;

Has anyone designed a oil system for their Type 4 using the stock oil pump (not DS pump), and into a dry sump tank (like the small CB750 oil tank) before heading back to the motor, just to cool and remove air from the oil ?

Could the CB750 tank be placed appropriately so that it removed air from the oil while alowing a few extra quarts into the system BUT without the side effect of way overfilling the engine's sump during operation? Must be a way..

I don't want to add a deep sump, never liked them and I need to add an external oil tank as stated no matter what.

I really didn't want to have to butcher this Type 4 case to make the CB dry sump pump work, I probably would have an easier time making the motor mount work, still it's not ideal butchering/Jerry rigging everything.

I'd just like a little extra oil, free of air and without the addition of the cheap looking leak prone deep sump.

[Piledriver]

Beautiful car!
...but there's no need to "butcher" A T4 case or even modify it to get a CB drysump pump in there, the pump and motor mounts are what needs modded. Pump gets narrowed and the drivers side (on a 914) mount needs to be triangulated and made so the input to the pressure stage can pass through.(I can post the pics of what I made if they got lost in the server upgrade)

A "degas" tank on the pressure side ...
I wouldn't go there, a conventional setup works fine, although I'm personally not sold on the filter and long cooler runs on the scavenge side, due to the smallish scavenge stage. Copper lines also have issues, but they look nice.I know the factory did it like that but did they use copper? Copper tends to work harden then crack...

Returning the relief/bypass oil to the DS tank is also trivial to do, esp if you use an Jaycee external relief, no case work needed. You can return to a modded oil cooler adapter and use a solid spacer under the piston on the in-case relief.
The stock relief can also be modded easily when the case is apart.