stripped sump plate stud !!!
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kps73
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2000 12:01 am
stripped sump plate stud !!!
Ok I removed the sump plate from my 78 2.0 pancake and the threads from the stud came with it.The stud??It is the one coming from the center of the oil pickup tube.Can I take a stud remover and pull it or will I brake the web where the p/u tube bolts to?I dont even know if it comes out or if it is welded or goes in from the top.I know the engine is in good shape and hope I dont have to split the case to do this!Again thanks in advance ,Ken
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germansupplyscott
- Posts: 887
- Joined: Fri Jul 20, 2001 12:01 am
stripped sump plate stud !!!
you can't remove the stud, because is isn't in fact a stud. it is part of the oil pickup assembly and if you tried to pull it out with a stud remover you could completely pooch your oil pickup. this threaded 'stud' passes through the dish part of the pickup and terminates in an eylet which is in turn held by a bolt through the case halves. i do not believe the oil pickup assembly can be removed with the case halves together: in order to fix this properly the case must be opened.
you need to re-thread the "stud" and create a new nut assembly that will seal off the strainer plate. here is something you could try, but it is a quick fix, and will sort of wreck your oil pickup. (it's already wrecked?) it might get you back on the road.
your thread is supposed to m8 x 1.25, so get yourself a die which is slightly smaller, say 1/4-28. or even 7mm, but that size might be difficult to find. i say 1/4-28 since the fine thread may work better on the already threaded end of the strainer stud. you have to find a way to spin the die around the mashed stud, first by possibly filing or grinding down the diameter of the stud so the die will be able to start itself. then once has started, keeping it square to the stud, cut new threads into the stud. you will be able to use a die handle for the first bit of threading, but technically the new threads should extend into the case, so the handle will not be useable all the way. you can improvise some way of turning the die without a handle.
if you can get some decent new threads cut into the stud, then it should fairly easy to bung together some sort of nut/washer/crush washer assembly that will replace the old capped nut and crush washer.
there is another solution which might work, too. J-B weld. this stuff works wonders, and might in your case. you could clean up the stud well with something to remove all the oil residue, then goop on some j-b weld. after it is well cured, you MIGHT be able to use an m8 tap to restore the original threads. the difficulty here will be getting the new threads to start such that they line up with the old. possibly threading the die all the way onto the stud past the damaged area, then putting on the j-b weld, letting it cure with the die in place, then moving the die DOWN the stud instead of UP it, will do this. the j-b weld should be strong enough to hold the strainer plate on with enough pressure to seal, especially if you use some sealant like permatex as well, and don't over torque the nut.
hope that is of some help.
scott lyons
[This message has been edited by punkinfair (edited 11-29-2001).]
you need to re-thread the "stud" and create a new nut assembly that will seal off the strainer plate. here is something you could try, but it is a quick fix, and will sort of wreck your oil pickup. (it's already wrecked?) it might get you back on the road.
your thread is supposed to m8 x 1.25, so get yourself a die which is slightly smaller, say 1/4-28. or even 7mm, but that size might be difficult to find. i say 1/4-28 since the fine thread may work better on the already threaded end of the strainer stud. you have to find a way to spin the die around the mashed stud, first by possibly filing or grinding down the diameter of the stud so the die will be able to start itself. then once has started, keeping it square to the stud, cut new threads into the stud. you will be able to use a die handle for the first bit of threading, but technically the new threads should extend into the case, so the handle will not be useable all the way. you can improvise some way of turning the die without a handle.
if you can get some decent new threads cut into the stud, then it should fairly easy to bung together some sort of nut/washer/crush washer assembly that will replace the old capped nut and crush washer.
there is another solution which might work, too. J-B weld. this stuff works wonders, and might in your case. you could clean up the stud well with something to remove all the oil residue, then goop on some j-b weld. after it is well cured, you MIGHT be able to use an m8 tap to restore the original threads. the difficulty here will be getting the new threads to start such that they line up with the old. possibly threading the die all the way onto the stud past the damaged area, then putting on the j-b weld, letting it cure with the die in place, then moving the die DOWN the stud instead of UP it, will do this. the j-b weld should be strong enough to hold the strainer plate on with enough pressure to seal, especially if you use some sealant like permatex as well, and don't over torque the nut.
hope that is of some help.
scott lyons
[This message has been edited by punkinfair (edited 11-29-2001).]