Trunk Mount Positive Bat Cable Route

[5.0 Chero]

Some more clean up work


Ground straps

[Ol'fogasaurus]

The two things I see that bother me is the positive cable and the ground cable being of different gauges and the braided bare ground cable. As I said before, flat woven braided or short rope style: they are not protected from the elements as well and have had a long history of breaking down. Otherwise, looking pretty good.

[5.0 Chero]

The two things I see that bother me is the positive cable and the ground cable being of different gauges and the braided bare ground cable. As I said before, flat woven braided or short rope style: they are not protected from the elements as well and have had a long history of breaking down. Otherwise, looking pretty good.

I appreciate your opinion but I have use braided ground cables for years with out issues. As for the gauge difference I had the 2/0 welding cable here so I used it, all it dose is go to the starter solenoid I am using a power buss from a Chevy truck to power every thing else

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I go back almost 60 years ago when the braided cables were being phased out due to the inherent problems with them. I am not telling you what to do just telling what experiences I have had with them playing with cars and what I was told being a mechanic in the late 50's and into the early 60's.

The flat braided cable in the VW has, as far as I know, always been somewhat of a problem.

The idea of using welding cable is and old trick especially when we started putting the battery in the trunk on the left side for traction drag racing.

The concept of matching the gauge and lengths of two battery cables has been, as far as I know, an always been. The same with wiring, you match the size/gauge of the positive and ground (remember the work is done via the ground which is why they had positive ground cars years ago. I think there is still one mfg. that still does it).

Sorry about saying anything.

[dustymojave]

Also keep in mind the environment where Lee has experience. A VERY DAMP place compared to the desert that Baja Bugs and Buggies started out being built for. Moisture is a problem for exposed cables or braids. Especially where the moisture is salted, as in the northeast part of the US. That becomes very corrosive to ground cables. I myself have never even SEEN salted roads. Volcanic cinders...YES. But they're not corrosive and don't pollute. Lots of SoCal VWs still have their original trans to mount stud ground braid underneath.

[5.0 Chero]

I go back almost 60 years ago when the braided cables were being phased out due to the inherent problems with them. I am not telling you what to do just telling what experiences I have had with them playing with cars and what I was told being a mechanic in the late 50's and into the early 60's.

The flat braided cable in the VW has, as far as I know, always been somewhat of a problem.

The idea of using welding cable is and old trick especially when we started putting the battery in the trunk on the left side for traction drag racing.

The concept of matching the gauge and lengths of two battery cables has been, as far as I know, an always been. The same with wiring, you match the size/gauge of the positive and ground (remember the work is done via the ground which is why they had positive ground cars years ago. I think there is still one mfg. that still does it).

Sorry about saying anything.

Actually the welding cable came from m 64 Chevelle that I had i the 90s with a trunk mounted battery. And assuring a good ground is why I tied it into the roll cage as a buss I have 2 cables running to the Engine in back from the cage.

I know of the ground straps you are talking about and yes they could be a pain if neglected. I live in Central California our climate dose not lead to a lot of corrosion. This ground strap actually came off the JAG I remove the mega fuse box from It appears to be stainless,

As far as you saying anything that is not a problem with me, I did not take any offence and was trying to say I respected you opinion,

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Just went through Central CA on the way home to WA.

There used to be a Tee-shirt you could buy (directed more to the sporty car set) that said: "the British drink warm beer because Lucas makes refrigerators'" (funny, but not true: it's a different beer making process as I understand it) but most of the British cars, at least used to used Lucas electrical components which is why... (fill in the blank yourself).

I have been around electrics, at different levels, most of my lift but I have never around anything using SS/CRES (get your magnet out and see if it is SS or not) materials so I looked it up... electrical wise: http://physics.stackexchange.com/questi ... lectricity.

I would also recommend using your volt/OHM meter and checking one end of the roll cage to the other to see just how conductive it is; remember no paint only bare metal. I have been thinking of something similar myself but am now leaning more towards wiring the car in the rear and only sending necessary gauge information forward rather than doing the normal under dash thing which, on a glass buggy, is murder to get to with the seats in place . I got stuck under the dash once and went into a panic situation and hurt myself getting out from being wedged in place so now the hood dash get unbolted and lifted off. My black buggy does not allow that hence another reason for wiring in the rear.

I also wire a bit differently as ride the buggy only off-road. I separate everything so if there is a problem with one circuit then, unless it is in the ignition system itself, I can get back to camp under my own power. I also run switch and un-switch circuits for various reasons and use heat reset circuit breakers instead of fuses.

I hope this helps.

[5.0 Chero]

I actually wired the lights with breakers instead of fuses I did check the cage My Fluke gave e a 0 OHM reading I will have to look at the Jag cable a little closer to see what it is made out of It did not look like tinned copper to me but it could be.

[Piledriver]

Note also that UK ''warm beer" is relative...
Its at room temperature, which is a lot cooler in the UK than the back of a pickup sitting in the noon summer sun in Nogales...

The only reason we (USA "we") have learned to desire ice cold beer is the mass produced stuff most drink here tastes like drain cleaner unless ice cold. Good beer tastes just fine even at room temp, even in Nogales.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I thought that by the time it got to room temps... the beer gets flat.

Not being a drinker of alcoholic social beverages it is something I am not too familiar with other than having to wait on drunks (and call the SP/MP, police or medics) and having alcoholic relatives' (by marriage). "Brits prefer darker beer: stouts, porters and bitter ales. They serve light beer slightly chilled and dark beer at room temp. Go to a good pub or brewery in the US and you'll see the same thing. " got this off the web. Also what Pile said is true, chilling it does hide faults in the beer.