Downunder turbo oval & Datsun 510 adventures

[petew]

I used to be a professional bass player. Played all sorted of stuff, jazz, rock, classical and even one or two country gigs when things were quiet. I've got a blues band going at the moment. I'm playing slide guitar and singing. We're a three piece so I've got this tricky pedal that makes the bottom notes sound like a bass is playing along with me.

https://www.facebook.com/pbtmusic/

Because I play in G tuning for slide, almost every song is in the same key. So, we're not the most amazing band, but people like what we do it seems. And as you can see, the beetle is well used for publicity.

[petew]

HELP!!!!

Put my new injectors in today, from 208 up to 370cc. I changed the general settings over for the new injectors. Then tried starting it. It's running like a bag of spanners! Help. Gotta drive it on Saturday, really don't want to have to retune the whole motor.

[petew]

HUGE thanks to Mario for saving my bacon. The man is a legend. Fixed my dramas in about 10 seconds.

[buguy]

Could you share what you/he did to fix it? Just for future reference.

[petew]

Sure. He asked me if the injectors were high or low impedance so I measured them. High. Then he got me to recalibrate my whole fuel table. Which took 2 seconds...

208cc / 370cc = .562
Highlight your entire fuel table and use the multiplier in the top right. Enter .562 and this with scale your fuel table to the new injectors.

Then he got me to go and change the 'Required Fuel' setting.

Engine constants. First tab, first menu.
Basic / Load Settings -> Engine and Sequential Settings -> (Required Fuel) top left of the menu.

This recalculated all the running fuel calcs. Again, took 2 seconds. Then I'd flooded the motor, so he showed me how to 'flood clear' by holding the throttle flat for 10 secs while cranking. Then it fired right up and ran like a champ.

Thanks again Mario!

[buguy]

Note to self. Call Mario!

[andy198712]

legend!

yeah the flood clear is a nice feature too!

[Clonebug]

Mario For the Win!!!!!!

I get all my EFI stuff from Mario......you pay a little more but the support is worth it.!!!!
I have Mario do all the solder work and modifying on the ECU and also get the harness parts from him with plugs on the sender or injector end. You can hardly buy the tools and supplies for the small price increase.
I run the harness, put it all together into a package and cut to length. I just use terminal strips at the ECU end so I don't need plugs there.
Works a treat!!!!

[petew]

I've been trying not to drive the beetle, because I only get 60 days a year for private (non-club) use and that includes just going to get petrol. Which is a bit of a drag, because I'm used to just taking it out for a spin. Today I had to get a CT scan, because had bad sinuses and it won't go away. I drove the beetle down to the lab and it was running silly rich and just not all that smooth. So afterwards I swung past home, grabbed my laptop and went out to do some tuning.

Wideband issues solved
Before I tell you the result, I should say I think I've found my WB problem. Basically it comes down to vibration. The end of the exhaust is attached to the bumper mount via a steel strap (not a rubber hanger) and I think this has been vibrating. Either that or it's the last spot the motor flexes at as the revs get up. Having disconnected the strap and driven it properly for a bit, the WB stopped dropping out and worked nicely, which is why I could finally autotuned.

New injector tune for you 8.12.2018.png

Autotune
Re the autotuned; I wasn't greatly surprised to see it pull a LOT of fuel out as the car was pretty stinky and rich. My first bit I just tried to get lots of medium throttle for decent street driving. You can see where I hit the squares the most. This is important, but in Sydney traffic, ripping through gears is not a great idea. After that I started doing longer runs in 3rd and 4th gear at full throttle from about 2000rpm.


Detonation?
The very first time I let the car rev right out, I got a weird hissing/clicking sound. I got right off it straight away. I've never heard it before like that, although I've heard detonation at lower revs when I had the ring gaps lined up on the old pistons. It didn't seem to run out of power, but it didn't sound good. I only revved it into this sound one more time (from memory). This log shows that first occurrence…

New injector datalog pinging 8.12.2018.jpg

I assume it is detonation, but I don't know for sure and I wasn't dumb enough to push my luck. When I looked at the log the MAT was 127F. Not super hot, but not great either. I figured maybe I should wait for some cooler night temps to tune it in. The other being, I don't think the bleed valve is controlling the boost at all. Peak boost was 14.8psi, and I only stopped because it sounded nasty. I'm wondering if the motor was running out of table. Love to hear your thoughts on that.

Boost cut
After that, I wound the boost cut back to 180kpa. This was ok, but when I hit it in 2nd gear at full throttle there was a huge CRACK! As it spat out unburnt fuel. Scared the heck out of me. Is there a way to make the boost cut not quite so violent?

Final thoughts and TPSdot
Overall, it's a lot nicer to drive and the torque is incredibly linear until about 4000rpm, then it's a freight train. I'm still arguing with the TPSdot. I've tried 200, 100, 50 and then back to 150. I can't seem to notice the difference. Thought?

[MarioVelotta]

Autotune: All the Blue numbers are added fuel, not subtracted. You should go through your VE table and manually adjust all the adjacent cells that are "out of spec" to where autotune was going. It should be smooth, no big hills or valleys.

Detonation: It sounds like metal in a popcorn tin. It's common to happen at peak cylinder pressure, so just knock some more timing out of that area and then smooth the number around the retarded timing portion. 127F isn't bad at all, NA cars can run that in engine bay temps

Boost Cut: It's a life saver. Do you have it set to cut fuel, spark or both? I cut both, and the car just loses power instantly so you know you have gone to far. If you are just cutting spark the crack is the extra fuel injected while the spark was cut and then ignited when spark returned.

TPSdot: Are you trying to tune your accel enrichment?

[petew]

Autotune: All the Blue numbers are added fuel, not subtracted. You should go through your VE table and manually adjust all the adjacent cells that are "out of spec" to where autotune was going. It should be smooth, no big hills or valleys.

Detonation: It sounds like metal in a popcorn tin. It's common to happen at peak cylinder pressure, so just knock some more timing out of that area and then smooth the number around the retarded timing portion. 127F isn't bad at all, NA cars can run that in engine bay temps

Boost Cut: It's a life saver. Do you have it set to cut fuel, spark or both? I cut both, and the car just loses power instantly so you know you have gone to far. If you are just cutting spark the crack is the extra fuel injected while the spark was cut and then ignited when spark returned.

TPSdot: Are you trying to tune your accel enrichment?

Re autotune; OH... wow. That makes sense. I'll add a heap more fuel into the table. Hope I didn't cook it. :/

Re detonation; yeah, that was the sound. Now I know why.

Re boost cut; I've only had spark cut on, I'll change it over to cutting both.

Re TPSdot; I've been trying to make the engine smoother at low throttle. I thought TPSdot was supposed to help that. I think enrichment is broadly ok on the tune so far.

[petew]

Hi all, I'd have updated this a lot sooner but I'm having issues logging in. I'm on an ancient tablet because that's the only device that doesn't tell me STF is offline or insecure. But I digress.

I spent a lot of Thursday tuning the car. Driving back and forth from school, around the local area and then out to a rehearsal and back in the evening. About mid morning, the WB sensor finally cried uncle and I replaced it. I've also finally got the hang of the boost control valve. Its running around 9.5psi consistently at the moment with the boost cut set for 12psi. I did this because I want to try and tune properly in every boost range rather than leaving holes in the table.

Ive got a few little issues with drivability at low throttle that I've traced to big changes in the AFRs and advance over just a few revs. Not sure how to get around them. I'd like to post some pics but I can't with the current Internet issues.

I'm also wondering if my turbo is going to be good for more than 15psi. In which case I'll need a dual table set up, but i don't know how to do that. Thoughts?

[Chip Birks]

Why dual table at 15psi?

[petew]

Ummm, I dunno I just know I'm only getting to 4500rpm before boost cut stops it. Which tells me it'll boost a lot more the other side of 5500rpm. Redline is currently 6000rpm.

Here's my current table...

Auto Tune 13.12.18 7.05.jpg

I think I need to monkey with my ignition map too. To try and get rid of that light throttle issue I mentioned.

Ignition table 15.12.18.jpg

I've pulled a little out around 2600rpm down at 75kpa. I'm wondering if this is the right approach or whether I should fiddle with AFRs. Thoughts?

[petew]

Right, so a few things.

1. Warm up enrichment.
I've been trying to get this right with the new injectors. I have the feeling it's too much, because it struggles to start and feels a bit rich. Also smells a little. I've wound it back, but it's still not a lot better. I'm wondering if the 'pre-prime' on key turn is too much?

2. TPS enrichment
I noticed a real hesisation on fast throttle blips today. I'm just not sure what to do about it. You can see it in the datalog here...

throttle hesitation 28.12.2018.jpg

Here's my setting for now. What am I doing wrong?

Accel enrichment 28.12.2018.jpg

3. Wideband sensor
I've killed another one. I had something vibrating against the exhaust. I guess this is what killed it. Really spewing about this. I guess I'll need to order another one. Man, it's getting expensive.