Re: Type 1 twin screw supercharger build / 9 yrs later I'm back at it

[Alexander_Monday]

I must say the RLR wedgemate removal tool worked great.
So much better than a couple of pry bars, a hand sledge, and a block.
Made a 1 man job of it.

[Alexander_Monday]

Seems I am afflicted with the E85 black goo.
It is a sticky tar.
Did some Google-fu and it is hit or miss and is most likely fuel additives depending on area.
I have stainless tank and all lines are braided teflon.
No black goo in the fuel lines and exhaust looks normal.
Will be interesting to see what the combustion chambers and piston tops look like.
This is 12K miles worth. (Ran it NA for quite some time)

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[Clonebug]

My intakes looked like that when my intake valves leaked so bad I had zero compression when turning the engine over with the starter.
The compression gauge would bump to 25 lbs but not hold it. Once started the engine ran fine but had a slight miss at cold idle. Any other speed it ran fine.

[Chip Birks]

Seems I am afflicted with the E85 black goo.
It is a sticky tar.
Did some Google-fu and it is hit or miss and is most likely fuel additives depending on area.
I have stainless tank and all lines are braided teflon.
No black goo in the fuel lines and exhaust looks normal.
Will be interesting to see what the combustion chambers and piston tops look like.
This is 12K miles worth. (Ran it NA for quite some time)



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My piston tops and chambers were almost always almost like new looking when running e85. It's crazy stuff.

[Piledriver]

The bellville spring setups seldom give trouble, but I used 228mm clutches for the last 25 years...
Hows that sintered disk workin? Have to sandblast it often?
Big trans saver, but it has to slip a little.

[Alexander_Monday]

The bellville spring setups seldom give trouble, but I used 228mm clutches for the last 25 years...
Hows that sintered disk workin? Have to sandblast it often?
Big trans saver, but it has to slip a little.

This is the first time I have pulled the engine since I installed it.
Doing some searching leads me to think that it might be responsible for my 1st to 2nd shift delay.
According to several, the added weight of the black magic disc is hard on synco rings since the input shaft takes longer to slow down.
Muffler Mike said he had that problem when he tried a black magic and several others said they bent or broke syncos.
Of course MM is shifting higher and harder and not lifting, but his not going into 2nd might equate to the delay I get until the shaft slows down.
I sent an email to Kevin asking what clutch and pp he would recommend since he is building my transaxle.

[Alexander_Monday]

My piston tops and chambers were almost always almost like new looking when running e85. It's crazy stuff.

Looking through the plug holes, the top of the pistons look pristine.
Most likely won't get to tear it down until next weekend.

[Alexander_Monday]

My intakes looked like that when my intake valves leaked so bad I had zero compression when turning the engine over with the starter.
The compression gauge would bump to 25 lbs but not hold it. Once started the engine ran fine but had a slight miss at cold idle. Any other speed it ran fine.

I don't think that is my problem as compression seemed normal.

These are the things I found from searching:

A chemist analyzed a sample, and it is a long chain hydrocarbon similar to Vaseline entirely composed of hydrogen and carbon that is completely aliphatic (no ring structures). It is clear, but combustion products from intake reversion are mixed with it turning it black. Detergent fuel additives will not dissolve it. When mixed with higher than 50% ethanol it will drop out of suspension when sprayed from the injector but not in the fuel system. Spraying onto cold surfaces drops out more of it out of suspension so a vehicle with many short trips has more build up. According to the chemist the best solution is to add N-Methylaniline, but apparently no current US fuel additives have it.

N-Methylaniline is an octane booster add to gasoline.
Ethanol from the refinery only contains 2% gasoline to denature it and no additives to reduce pipeline friction.
Gasoline from the refinery contains additives to reduce friction in the pipelines and the Vaseline like compound is believed to be one or more of these.
The regional supplier mixes the E85 and may add further additives to it.
It is reported that some suppliers will use the lowest octane (cost) gasoline to mix E85, thus less or no N-Methylaniline in E85 from those suppliers.
Some areas have less of the Vaseline like compound and more N-Methylaniline so no sticky goo in the intake.
Other areas will have more of the Vaseline like compound and less N-Methylaniline so have varying amounts of sticky goo in the intake.

[Alexander_Monday]

Got an hour this afternoon to start tear down on the 1-2 side.
Everything under the valves covers looked fine.
There are carbon deposits on the head and pistons.
Probably from the many NA miles on pump gas.
Pistons and barrels look good to me, nothing I could feel with a fingernail besides carbon at the top of the barrels.
Got to check #2 rod side clearance just before I had to go which was a tight .015.

Will clean up the heads and do a hand lap as long as the valves and seats look good.
If the ring end gaps check out, and the other side looks the same, should I just clean them and run them and barrels as is or have the barrels honed?

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[Piledriver]

If you have not done so and check your rod bearings, strongly consider notching your rods big ends.
The side clearance is not the flow restriction in any way.
(I have experienced that argued by a supposed great engine builder here in Texas, pointing out bearing clearance/area had no effect)
.
~like oil squirters, only dead reliable and free. Has been a thing since ~pressure fed rod bearings.
VW even recommended it late on...

Any oil that gets past the rod bearing isn't lubing the rod bearing any more.
I use a diamond file, one notch each side on center.
Some mill a v notch.
Some put in 2 notches.
Someone probably does 3.
Some factory rods have a hole in the rod and bearing so it provides a pressurized spurt at certain angles.
Some have pin pressure oiling.
Use that tight side clearance.

[V8Nate]

If you have not done so and check your rod bearings, strongly consider notching your rods big ends.
The side clearance is not the flow restriction in any way.
(I have experienced that argued by a supposed great engine builder here in Texas, pointing out bearing clearance/area had no effect)
.
~like oil squirters, only dead reliable and free. Has been a thing since ~pressure fed rod bearings.
VW even recommended it late on...

Any oil that gets past the rod bearing isn't lubing the rod bearing any more.
I use a diamond file, one notch each side on center.
Some mill a v notch.
Some put in 2 notches.
Someone probably does 3.
Some factory rods have a hole in the rod and bearing so it provides a pressurized spurt at certain angles.
Some have pin pressure oiling.
Use that tight side clearance.

I did that on my 2058cc, figured the oil was wasted and flung anyways might as well give it a direction to go. Did it on both sides of the rod hoping it would give both sides of the pistons a little extra

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

[Alexander_Monday]

If you have not done so and check your rod bearings, strongly consider notching your rods big ends.
The side clearance is not the flow restriction in any way.
(I have experienced that argued by a supposed great engine builder here in Texas, pointing out bearing clearance/area had no effect)
.
~like oil squirters, only dead reliable and free. Has been a thing since ~pressure fed rod bearings.
VW even recommended it late on...

Any oil that gets past the rod bearing isn't lubing the rod bearing any more.
I use a diamond file, one notch each side on center.
Some mill a v notch.
Some put in 2 notches.
Someone probably does 3.
Some factory rods have a hole in the rod and bearing so it provides a pressurized spurt at certain angles.
Some have pin pressure oiling.
Use that tight side clearance.

I saw that done by many on the samba when I frequented there years ago.
Sounds reasonable, I will check out the options.

About the cylinders and rings, I posted the question on speed talk and so far have 2 opposing opinions.
Any input?

[Alexander_Monday]

If you have not done so and check your rod bearings, strongly consider notching your rods big ends.
The side clearance is not the flow restriction in any way.
(I have experienced that argued by a supposed great engine builder here in Texas, pointing out bearing clearance/area had no effect)
.
~like oil squirters, only dead reliable and free. Has been a thing since ~pressure fed rod bearings.
VW even recommended it late on...

Any oil that gets past the rod bearing isn't lubing the rod bearing any more.
I use a diamond file, one notch each side on center.
Some mill a v notch.
Some put in 2 notches.
Someone probably does 3.
Some factory rods have a hole in the rod and bearing so it provides a pressurized spurt at certain angles.
Some have pin pressure oiling.
Use that tight side clearance.

I did that on my 2058cc, figured the oil was wasted and flung anyways might as well give it a direction to go. Did it on both sides of the rod hoping it would give both sides of the pistons a little extra

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

What is the reason for the location you used?
Is it on both sides?

[Piledriver]

As to the hone/not to hone question, if you had a good ring seal before and no visible damage, I would clean it up and carefully put it back together. (this after measuring bore/out of round/taper and piston dia) unless you want to replace the rings.

If you had really good ring seal I would personally just stick it back together, as that is the result of those measurements/conditions all being right.

[V8Nate]

If you have not done so and check your rod bearings, strongly consider notching your rods big ends.
The side clearance is not the flow restriction in any way.
(I have experienced that argued by a supposed great engine builder here in Texas, pointing out bearing clearance/area had no effect)
.
~like oil squirters, only dead reliable and free. Has been a thing since ~pressure fed rod bearings.
VW even recommended it late on...

Any oil that gets past the rod bearing isn't lubing the rod bearing any more.
I use a diamond file, one notch each side on center.
Some mill a v notch.
Some put in 2 notches.
Someone probably does 3.
Some factory rods have a hole in the rod and bearing so it provides a pressurized spurt at certain angles.
Some have pin pressure oiling.
Use that tight side clearance.

I did that on my 2058cc, figured the oil was wasted and flung anyways might as well give it a direction to go. Did it on both sides of the rod hoping it would give both sides of the pistons a little extra

Sent from my SM-S918U using Tapatalk

What is the reason for the location you used?
Is it on both sides?

I used my imagination to be honest,first time doing it so I was thinking it would squirt oil on either side of the wrist pin. Hindsight i should have done 4 notches but without testing it it's probably just a hope it works kinda situation

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