should I use syn oil .
-
hopper
should I use syn oil .
Most say it does not do a good job. Has anyone used it with a positive outcome.
-
No1uknw
should I use syn oil .
Ok this is what I've been told with a new engine you would want to run plain old natural engine oil as synth oil is to slippery and won't allow the parts to wear into each other as fast or easily. After you have sufficently broke the engine in you could then run synth as all the parts have properly wore/seated into each other. What, when and where this happens Im not sure (aka: after x amount of miles) Its up to you but I say rack up some miles first with regular oil then change over after that if its a new engine.
Just my 2 cents
No1uknw
Just my 2 cents
No1uknw
-
TomB
should I use syn oil .
Generally true that you break in with dino oil and change to synthetics after 5,000+ miles. An old rumor(?) pushed by Berg is that synthetic make poor heat transfer fluids and cause higher head temps in an oil-cooled engine like VW. However modern synthetics use many different base-stocks and so would vary widely in this regard. Probably synthetic hydrocarbon base would be similar to dino in thermal characteristics. I've been using Amsoil 10W40 motorcycle in a new Mexican engine (in Texas).
-
vicsvw
- Posts: 1054
- Joined: Tue Mar 06, 2001 12:01 am
should I use syn oil .
We have had great results with the synthetic oil's but have had trouble with Castrol Syntec leaking out. We have also had very good results with the Castrol 20w40 oil, and use it in more motors then the synthetic oil due to the cost. We have never traced a problem back to the type oil used. Vic http://www.vwhelp.com
-
vwnate1
- Posts: 596
- Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2001 12:01 am
should I use syn oil .
After breakin (3K miles min) synthetic is the very best oil you cam use . you MUST continue to change it every 3K miles or less ! . it WILL leak , seep or whatever much more than dino oil , not a bad thing just that's the way it is .it is also much more detergent in nature that dino oil so if you're converting an older engine to synthetic , plan on a short oil change - like 500 miles and do not be frightened by the crap that suddenly shows up in the screen ! I also recommend a magnet in the sump.
it's expen$ive but your motor will last way longer , run cooler etc.
------------------
-Nate
Filth & Greed Imports
(the LAST honest VWshop)
[This message has been edited by vwnate1 (edited 05-04-2001).]
it's expen$ive but your motor will last way longer , run cooler etc.
------------------
-Nate
Filth & Greed Imports
(the LAST honest VWshop)
[This message has been edited by vwnate1 (edited 05-04-2001).]
-
aussiebug
- Posts: 1520
- Joined: Wed Mar 07, 2001 12:01 am
should I use syn oil .
Synthetics and VW engines is a topic which crops up regularly.
So here's some info on them.
1. Synthetics were developed mainly for use in engines running turbos - super hot.
2. The are chemically more stable than mineral oils, so resist decomposition from heat better than mineral oils.
3. Because of 2. above, there is a misconception that they do not carry heat to the oil cooler as well as mineral oils. They are still just Hyrocarbons, and WILL carry heat to the oil cooler much the same as mineral oils - they are "resistant to heat" where decomposistion is the question - nothing to do with heat-carrying capacity.
4. VWs do not run hot enough to require synthetic oils, even though they do run a little hotter than water cooled cars.
5. VWs have an open sump design. They have slots in the crank case behind the engine pulley, and a spiral groove which pulls in unfiltered air for positive crankcase ventilation.
6. Most VW engines do not have an oil filter.
7. Because of 5 and 6 above, VW recommend 3000 mile oil changes, so that any crud in the oil is flushed out before it becomes a problem.
8. The special heat tolerance and long lasting properties of synthetics are therefore wasted on a VW engine - you STILL need to change the oil every 3000 miles.
9. Yes - sythetics will work fine. No - your engine doesn't NEED synthetic oil.
10. A good quality mineral oil (much cheaper than sythetic oils) will do the job just fine.
11. VW used to recommend single weight oils, and recommend you change the grade to suit the season, as well as changiing at the 3000 mile point. These days, multigrades are very good, so in warmer climates, a 20w50 mineral oil works just fine, and in snowy climates, a 10w30 works well. So you can mostly choose a multigrade to suit your climate and just worry about the 3000 mile changes.
12. Do NOT use non-detergent oils in VW engines. VW has always recommended HD (that means High Detergent - not "heavy duty" as some people think) oils because the lack of an oil filter means you have to hold the crud in the oil so it can be flushed out with the oil change - that's what the detergent does. Non-detergent oils are best kept for your two-stroke chainsaws and outboards.
Regards,
------------------
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repair and Maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/index.html
So here's some info on them.
1. Synthetics were developed mainly for use in engines running turbos - super hot.
2. The are chemically more stable than mineral oils, so resist decomposition from heat better than mineral oils.
3. Because of 2. above, there is a misconception that they do not carry heat to the oil cooler as well as mineral oils. They are still just Hyrocarbons, and WILL carry heat to the oil cooler much the same as mineral oils - they are "resistant to heat" where decomposistion is the question - nothing to do with heat-carrying capacity.
4. VWs do not run hot enough to require synthetic oils, even though they do run a little hotter than water cooled cars.
5. VWs have an open sump design. They have slots in the crank case behind the engine pulley, and a spiral groove which pulls in unfiltered air for positive crankcase ventilation.
6. Most VW engines do not have an oil filter.
7. Because of 5 and 6 above, VW recommend 3000 mile oil changes, so that any crud in the oil is flushed out before it becomes a problem.
8. The special heat tolerance and long lasting properties of synthetics are therefore wasted on a VW engine - you STILL need to change the oil every 3000 miles.
9. Yes - sythetics will work fine. No - your engine doesn't NEED synthetic oil.
10. A good quality mineral oil (much cheaper than sythetic oils) will do the job just fine.
11. VW used to recommend single weight oils, and recommend you change the grade to suit the season, as well as changiing at the 3000 mile point. These days, multigrades are very good, so in warmer climates, a 20w50 mineral oil works just fine, and in snowy climates, a 10w30 works well. So you can mostly choose a multigrade to suit your climate and just worry about the 3000 mile changes.
12. Do NOT use non-detergent oils in VW engines. VW has always recommended HD (that means High Detergent - not "heavy duty" as some people think) oils because the lack of an oil filter means you have to hold the crud in the oil so it can be flushed out with the oil change - that's what the detergent does. Non-detergent oils are best kept for your two-stroke chainsaws and outboards.
Regards,
------------------
Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repair and Maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/index.html
-
Ronaldo
should I use syn oil .
No one has mentioned the difference in the viscosities of mineral and synthetic. Mineral tending to be 20-50, 15-40 and synthetic having a base grade of SAE 5 or even less.
What is the effect of this on the running clearances in the crank bearings?, VW's having 2 to 3 thou but modern engines having 1 thou or less.
What is the effect of this on the running clearances in the crank bearings?, VW's having 2 to 3 thou but modern engines having 1 thou or less.