frame swap

Class 11 streeter · Post by **Class 11 streeter** » Thu Jan 24, 2002 12:36 am

Nothing special, just do it. Now is the time for a new pan seal if you need one. I have heard the bolt holes may be off by a slight amount, but I think that was splits and ovals on late pans. When you lay the body down on the pan you will know for sure then. Also, please, PLEASE use the stock 58-64 style doors, I think the later doors (65 and up) look ugly on an earlier body (side and door window sizes don't "match").

Class 11 streeter · Post by **Class 11 streeter** » Thu Jan 24, 2002 2:47 pm

Yes, you are right. My buddy has a 58 body on a 65 pan, and the body mount brackets that are inside the wheelwell have been ground down to fit. A 4" orbital grinder or other ballsy power grinder makes quick work of this, there's not a lot of clearancing needed. You could even lay the body down on the pan on some pieces of lumber between the body and the pan so you can work out these little details prior to "final assembly". Just an idea, I haven't done it this way, but I think it should work. That way, if you have labor to help you for the body move only one time (I recommend at least 3 people, but 2 could do it if they were super willing), you could finish attatching the body by yourself if you needed to.

Class 11 streeter · Post by **Class 11 streeter** » Thu Jan 24, 2002 2:51 pm

Arrgh! I meant to say a 58 body on a 69 pan

, it is registered as a 65. Long story, don't ask.

bugsoup · Post by **bugsoup** » Mon Jan 28, 2002 12:39 pm

I plan to install a 56 Oval Beetle on a 69 chassis. Has anyone had any problems with this? I have removed the floor pan halves already to install SB ones (for GTi seats). How should I locate the body mounting bolt holes to weld in the new pans before I mount the body on? I would like to paint the chassis after welding and sealing but before installing the body. Any recommendations?

thanks
Scott

JordanK · Post by **JordanK** » Wed Jan 30, 2002 6:37 pm

Grinding the rear mount is not the way to go, in my opinion-what would you have left to bolt up to the pan? What you want to do is drill the spotwelds that hold the rear mounting bracket to the body. when you take the wheel off you will see what i mean, the part that bolts to the shock tower/suspension is a seperate piece and is spotwelded to the body in 10-15 places. find and drill them all, then that piece will be free and you can reposition it. It needs to move up about 1.5 inches, then you can just weld it back. i bolted it all up before i welded.

To install the pans i would set the body down and bolt them up to the heater channels and rear body crossmembers before doing any welding. that way you know that when the body comes down for the final time they will all fit. In fact, i'd make sure you can get bolts in ALL of the pan to body holes before you get anything welded tight...i ended up havign to tweak the four large bolts at the front of the pan because i didn't have things lined up quite right. also, when you install a new body to pan seal, cut the holes for the bolts bigger than you think you will need-It's a huge pain to try to install new bolts through just a slit in the rubber. good luck,

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Jordan
1963 Beetle, 5 spokes, 1776, dropped spindles, etc...
1973 Standard Beetle, stock.
1968 Fastback, stock for now