If you have a good paint stripper(I like the citrus stuff, orange, from lowes) it well start working on bondo and make it softer...then u can dig it out, or take a grider to it, but dont go to deep. ON surface rust, get lots of sand paper, if your drill is dieing. Work your way down the grits..the real rough stuff will get it down to bare metal...and then smooth it with a lighter one. That primer that turns blackon rust isn't the best.. You can treat it with phos-po (see older post about it...)
------------------
"Surfers live the life
they love, and love the
life they live
RUST!!!!!!
- purple69
- Posts: 534
- Joined: Mon Apr 15, 2002 1:01 am
RUST!!!!!!
i doubt you're getting enough RPMs out of the drill for the disc to be effective. out of coincedence i was using a 3M disc today on my exhaust to clean it up and repaint it. i was thikning to myself, "i love these things, they work so good".
i was using the disc with a pneumatic grinder that probably does about 20,000 RPMs. works like a charm.
i was using the disc with a pneumatic grinder that probably does about 20,000 RPMs. works like a charm.
-
SpaceMonkey
- Posts: 25
- Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2002 1:01 am
RUST!!!!!!
How do you get rid of rust? I just picked up a hood that's got mainly surface rust, so I went out and bought a 3M rust removing disc for my drill and it's not gettting it down to bare metal (until I spent my rechargable drill's batteries in doing one spot). Is there any other easier way to do it? Does that primer that stops rust look alright after you put it on? Will paint stripper take off Bondo (R)? SOooo many questions, so little time!! Thanks to anyone who helps me out.
- Crimson_Axe
- Posts: 596
- Joined: Wed Jul 04, 2001 12:01 am
RUST!!!!!!
Por-15 I think that is the name of the stuff I know it prevents rust and I think I read that it stops it also.
http://www.por15.com/
------------------
Ken McMillion
Shaka Intekanational
www.shakaworld.com
www.creativelydone.com
"There is no spoon..." & "The world was flat once..."
http://www.por15.com/
------------------
Ken McMillion
Shaka Intekanational
www.shakaworld.com
www.creativelydone.com
"There is no spoon..." & "The world was flat once..."
- Tate
- Posts: 440
- Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2001 1:01 am
RUST!!!!!!
Ospho chemically changes rust and turns it black, treats the metal, good stuff. I used it when I stripped and repainted my car in '88 and my dad has used it extensively restoring flathead Fords. Spray it on, let it dry, then sand it and you are ready for primer(or body filler if you need it). You should be able to find it at a paint store, maybe even Ace Hardware.
POR 15 has a metal treatment too, but I haven't tried it, only their paint which is great stuff.
POR 15 has a metal treatment too, but I haven't tried it, only their paint which is great stuff.
-
CanadianDream
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Tue Apr 23, 2002 1:01 am
RUST!!!!!!
Try POR 15. I used it about a month ago. The stuff is amazing. Check out there website at www.por15.com
- Freq2002
- Posts: 813
- Joined: Tue Apr 09, 2002 1:01 am
RUST!!!!!!
POR 15 is meant for areas like your pan, trunk, battery tray, etc. On surface corrosion on the exterior, you'll want to remove as much rust as you can & use a quality rust neutralizer. Use the wrong stuff & the rust will come back after you've painted it.
Dont do too much grinding at it as you will thin out the sheet metal & create weak spots in the metal which can cause bowing of the surface. Can be real obvious when you paint it & can see the rolling effect on the surface reflection.
A better sugestion is to get ahold of a sand blaster & get some decent blasting media. Best stuff in the world for minimal destrction of the good metal is walnut shell media. If you cant get that, just take it easy with the sand, same problem as grinding.
Bondo, use a torch to heat it up. Heat it slow & even (emphasis on EVEN), then scrape it off a bit at a time with a sharp putty knife. The heat breaks it down & makes it more pliable.
------------------
Where are we going, & why am I in a handbasket?...
Dont do too much grinding at it as you will thin out the sheet metal & create weak spots in the metal which can cause bowing of the surface. Can be real obvious when you paint it & can see the rolling effect on the surface reflection.
A better sugestion is to get ahold of a sand blaster & get some decent blasting media. Best stuff in the world for minimal destrction of the good metal is walnut shell media. If you cant get that, just take it easy with the sand, same problem as grinding.
Bondo, use a torch to heat it up. Heat it slow & even (emphasis on EVEN), then scrape it off a bit at a time with a sharp putty knife. The heat breaks it down & makes it more pliable.
------------------
Where are we going, & why am I in a handbasket?...
- 72beetle
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Sun Feb 10, 2002 12:01 am
RUST!!!!!!
maybe you should try getting a flap brush. that is what we use on the F-14 Tomcat and it removes most corrosion and is easy on metal. just remember when you are removing corrosing use the mildest means nessessary.
Smitty
------------------
1972 beetle Std. 1776cc engine, 110 cam, Tri-Mil Eurosport single-Tip Exhaust. duel Kadrons. 1/4 mile: yet to be determined.
My other car is a 2000 Grand Prix GTP 3.8 Super Charged. 1/4 time: 14.1 @ 95.08 MPH
Smitty
------------------
1972 beetle Std. 1776cc engine, 110 cam, Tri-Mil Eurosport single-Tip Exhaust. duel Kadrons. 1/4 mile: yet to be determined.
My other car is a 2000 Grand Prix GTP 3.8 Super Charged. 1/4 time: 14.1 @ 95.08 MPH