T4 inexperienced, need buying advice

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Thu Jun 05, 2003 10:29 pm

No problem. Ray

Bulley412 · Post by **Bulley412** » Sat Jun 07, 2003 6:44 am

Howdy Ray, all--

I've been giving some thought to a small comment you made about "first mail-order restoration..." as we discussed the full package that would renew the front end of a 412.

You actually have a good point. I went by the dealer yesterday to check out whether they could do the work with the parts you provide, and they were very hesitant. The car IS 30 years old, and they never worked on many of them to start with (as we all know, most people just parked them when they broke)

So I'm not sure if I have a resource to do the work (other than me, and I am pretty-well out of the DIY thing for the moment due to my work schedule.

Any who, two things are coming together that *might* make more sense. I am semi-seriously looking at a Porsche 912e (same motor we know and love) in Dallas. It might make sense for me to drive the 412 there, leave it with you, pick up the 912e and return to NC. Thats a weekend trip for me... Later, when you have things done on the 412, I could come back to TX and pick it up. That's one answer, if you were game to do that.

Also weighing in this decision, is that long term, I really want a 2-door, so throwing $$$ into this car might be foolish. Maybe I out to find the RIGHT 412 for me, and poor the dough into that car.

Anyone want to swap a nice 4-door 412 for a nice 2 door 412? you can even keep the 4-speed tranny... I want the automatic. If you have AC I could throw in some $$$.

Needless to say, I'm juggling a number of car concerns right now, and it will be a week or two before I gel an idea. Bear with me.

gmb

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Sat Jun 07, 2003 9:27 am

Problem is....I don't have space. I am an apartment dweller with a 1 car garage that is occupied by my 412 in process. This does not include my two street dwelling cars, the daily driver and the company car. I have work space in the garage and machine shop connections all over the area....but with my travel schedule, I cannot take another vehicle. Most any VW shop....not a dealer...but a private shop, can install these parts in less than 3 hours. When they are ins sub-assemblies, like finished struts, center links, and idler brackets, this is identical to refurbishing the front end on a super beetle. Most VW shops do that all the time. Simply put....4 bolts on the struts, press in two control arm bushings, 2 bolts on each control arm, four bolts on the idler bracket and the bolt pin, 1 bolt on the steering dampner, two nuts on the centerlink. Tie rod ends are optional for you. There is nothing difficult about it. Dealers will balk at it (suer beetle too) because they have no billing specs, no parts available if they break anything, and no basic knowlage anymore....of the systems. There is a place, 5 hours north of here in Bentonville ark...that does work on 412's. I have recently spoken to them about restortaion of the front end of someones 412. Maybe they could do the work? Ray

70sq · Post by **70sq** » Wed Jun 18, 2003 5:48 pm

This is an update to the initial question of this post, namely what to watch for when buying a type 4. I've been describing the 71 411 in question to you all and getting some pretty excellent advice. Well, a picture is worth...etc. I was talking price to owners boyfreind today and he so happens to mention that the car is advertised at the Samba at: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... 1230371545
So, please take a look and tell me what yall think and know.
many thanks.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Wed Jun 18, 2003 9:43 pm

Looks like my very first 411....wow! Check for rust in the rear dorr sills and fenders. It can be repaired...as long as nothing is sagging. Also look for a rust line on the front fender on the rt. hand side down low next to the door gap...if nothing there? Great. HAAving thatrust line would require a new fender. If you have light rust in the front floor pans under theseat...even holes...thats ok. They can be welded. If it has no obvious wreck damage...get it. It looks very pretty. Getting a good body to start with is key. It will still need lots of little things....but if they have kept driving it on a semi-regular basis, it will be in much beter shape than if it sat still. Very nice....alaska blue metallic...buy it Ray

70sq · Post by **70sq** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 6:31 am

It has been repainted a shade darker, it also has a rusted rear parcel along the edge meeting with the rear window!, a strange place to me. It could be either the rear window leaking or caused by condensation from the engine heating & cooling. The front fender rust you're referring to sounds similar to T3s. He also said the mechanic said the engine can not be rebuilt. Thanks for the positive note though.
hisham

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 10:10 am

Engine is no problem. Tranny and accident damage are. The rear area will rust from lower window corner leakage and condensation from the back glass. Surface rust no proble...and neither really arerust throughs as long as they are small. This are is visually inaccessable and is not hideously structural as long as theshock tower/spring perches are solid. Just use phosphoric acidon the rust... and seal the holes up with silicone. Put new carpet over it. Ray

Bulley412 · Post by **Bulley412** » Sat Jun 28, 2003 4:34 am

alsehendo wrote:The Battery is under the front seat. You have to remove two front bolts were the seat bolts to the pan and tilt it back to see the Battery.

No you don't.

First, you adjust the driver's seatback to it's full upright position. Next, move the driver's seat about midway in its fore-aft track adjustment.

Then, using the forward lever on the right side of the seat, incline the seat bottom as far up as it will go. Then, using your right hand, lift the lever which allows for the incline adjustment, simultaniously with your left hand, reach under the seat, and you will find a second, (secret) lever which completely releases the seat from the incline rod (the thing that is bolted to the pan).

The secret release lever will be directly adjacent to the left side of the battery, attached to the seat bottom approximately under where your mid-thigh would be if you were in the driver's seat. It cannot be seen, but it can be felt.

Once you have it released the seat from the incline rod, you can lean the seat out of the way. Also, you release to fore-aft adjustment, and move the seat out of the way, or even complete remove it (slide it all the way forward, and angle it out of the track).

installation is the reverse of the above instructions, but be aware you have to line up the incline rod with the receiver under the seat.

pax.

gmb

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Wed Jul 09, 2003 9:35 pm

Removing the screws and putting them back seems easer but I'll take your word for it--live and learn, at least I new were it was. I always have tools around anyway.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Thu Jul 10, 2003 1:04 am

Matt is correct, though if the spring pin is properly adjusted...only the hidden left hand lever is actually necessary to release the seat. They are actually the same control. The right hand front knob simply has a shorter stroke stop to keep from accidently fully disengaging the seat. The left lever can fully make that stroke. Problem is they that lever is usually bent on most 411/412 due to not being kept greased and being squeezed to hard. The seat really does not have to be in the middle of its track . But it does allow it to fold back further. Ray

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Thu Jul 10, 2003 11:39 am

Ray do you have a phone # you could e-mail me? I want to purchase some front end parts. I sent you an e-mail or two but never herd back.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Thu Jul 10, 2003 2:04 pm

Its on the way. Ray

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T4 inexperienced, need buying advice

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