High Temp Exhaust Coatings

JC-ATL · Post by **JC-ATL** » Thu May 29, 2003 12:09 pm

Okay, let me see if I can help with this one:

Jet-Hot or ceramic coating are your two best options. I'd drop Kymco a line to see who does their ceramic coating, and see if there is a warranty. Kymco does seem to stand behind their products, and I've had good luck with their customer service.

That being said, POR-20 is a good product. I've used it on exhaust systems before to good effect. If you could figure a way to get it inside the pipes completely and evenly, you'd do well, as exhaust systems that I've worked with tend to rust from the inside out.

If you're concerned about keeping the engine compartment cooler, do two things: one, make sure you have a good seal around your engine tin, and two, get some header wrap and wrap your headers. You will get a small gain in horsepower from doing this as well, due to your exhaust gases not cooling as fast and creating less back pressure. However, if you do decide to go with header wrap, make sure your exhaust system is protected in some manner - ceramic, Jet-Hot, POR-20, something. Header wrap on a bare steel or merely painted exhaust system will speed the development of rust, quite surprisingly so.

Powdercoating your engine tin is a great thing. POR-20 isn't worth doing there, because your tin doesn't get hot enough for it to cure properly. I'm not sure on the color thing, you'll have to get a materials engineer to tell you about that one. Whatever you do find out about the colors, just have your tins powdercoated that color. (I've been hanging out with a powdercoater lately - he has over 800 colors available, I'm sure silver and white are amongst them.) If you decide not to do powdercoat on your tin, you can do them in POR-15, which doesn't require the heat to cure, or in regular automotive paint. I've done several by just painting the tin the same color as the car, using the same paint, with no adverse effects.

Good luck.

Capn Skully · Post by **Capn Skully** » Thu May 29, 2003 12:48 pm

A BIG LIGHT JUST WENT ON!!

I painted my intake manifold and generator stand with POR-20 thinking the parts needed the High-Temp protection. The stuff took forever to dry. I guess you live an learn. Thanks "G"

timgud · Post by **timgud** » Fri Jun 13, 2003 3:35 pm

I have two ceramic coated extractors from Kymco. The bus has had it on it for about 6 years now and it has been the first extractor I have had in 15 years of VW driving that wasn't in the trash after a couple of years from rust. I liked it so well that I put thier Thing header with thier tucked muffler on my 74 and it hasn't hit anything as of today and we do alot of rough mountain road driving with both the Thing and the bus. They may be more expensive than the non-coated but in the long run thier exhaust systems pay off.

Thingguy · Post by **Thingguy** » Sat Jun 14, 2003 5:50 am

JC, I just bought the Thing Shop exhaust (raw metal) & have been planning on applying some por-20 Black Velvet that I bought. It has a 1200 degree rating & now I am wondering if I might be better off with the 1400 degree silver. Is the 1200 enough you think?
Scott

JC-ATL · Post by **JC-ATL** » Sun Jun 15, 2003 3:35 pm

1200 is probably enough.

JC-ATL · Post by **JC-ATL** » Thu Jun 19, 2003 7:08 am

Nothing nuts about that - there's nothing wrong with having a highly detailed engine, as long as the looks don't have a negative effect on the quality of the build or the performance.

vdubsinjensen · Post by **vdubsinjensen** » Sun Jun 22, 2003 6:28 am

Don't waste your time with any of the exhaust paint from Eastwood.I put their silver high-heat exhaust coating on my new,unpainted,bare-metal,thoroughly cleaned, Kymco header,and watched it flake off about 2 minutes after the motor was ran.It stuck to about half of the system,and peeled off of the rest.Paul

Kelley · Post by **Kelley** » Wed Jul 16, 2003 9:56 am

nthang wrote: I'm going to attempt to coat the inside of the tubes with it, too, by fabricating a gadget like a toilet brush or dishwashing sponge thing and swabbing it with silver coating.

Why don't you get a couple of corks to plug the open ends of your header
and pour the rest of your coating inside one end.then plug it, and rotate around until you have full coverage. then you can just dump out the excess. I used to do motorcycle headers like that all the time and they came out great.

do your small parts first and your header last, you should have plenty of coating to go around.

Jerry D · Post by **Jerry D** » Wed Jul 16, 2003 5:53 pm

I have a Kymco ceramic coated, Kymco Tri-Mill style header on my street Baja. Within a couple of months it started to rust and now 10 months after I purchased it, it looks terrible. Granted the bug sits outside and is driven in the rain but the headers on my truck are still shiny after 3 years?
Jerry....

Kelley · Post by **Kelley** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 10:40 am

HEY JC,

do we have a local source for por20???

JC-ATL · Post by **JC-ATL** » Wed Jul 23, 2003 11:15 am

Sure do, Kel... and ceramic coating, too, for that matter.

Import Service and Restoration on Atlanta Street in Marietta is a POR retailer, I'm pretty sure I got my last can of POR-20 from him.

And Ray Henry of Pro-Powdercoating in Norcross does ceramic coating, too.

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