914 motor into 412

vwfreek · Post by **vwfreek** » Thu Jul 24, 2003 7:58 pm

I just picked up a '73 412 wagon with a bad motor. It isn't very pretty, but all the parts are there and it's fairly solid. I've got a complete 914 2.0 engine that I'd like to put in it. I'm just wondering if it's a direct bolt in, or will I have to change over the cooling tin and fuel injection parts?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Thu Jul 24, 2003 9:52 pm

The tin for the cylinders from the 914e will have to stay with it. The rest will come from the 412. Backing plate, breast plates etc. The D-jet on the 2.0 914 has slightly different calibration to the MPS...and larger injectors but all else is the same. The 2.0 manifolds need to be kept as well as the TB. You could use the 914 harness...but it will be a little long. Use the backing plate and fuel regulator location from the 412. Was the 412 D-injected or L injected? Was it auto or standard? You will need to install all of the air andvacume lines and switechesfrom the 412 if it was auto. Be sure to re-align the transaxle and engine properly. Ray

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 2:24 am

If you got an L-jet with it and you want to get rid of, (using D-jet with 914 2.0?) it let me know. I could use the 412 L-jet wiring harness, I fabed mine from Vanagon because of fire. A stock one would meen I could move the ECU back under the seat.

You going to paint it green and gold? if so don't let Bret see it!

paulcarlson · Post by **paulcarlson** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 10:50 am

Kenneth, that's cool you got the 412 wagon. I take it the rust wasn't that bad (for sitting in Wisconsin)...hope he gave you a good deal. Let us know how the project goes.

Paul

vwfreek · Post by **vwfreek** » Fri Jul 25, 2003 3:21 pm

I didn't get too bad of a deal. I traded him for a Jetta that I've been trying to get rid of, so I'm pretty happy about that. The rust isn't too bad, although it would take a lot of work to make it show quality.

I'm already running into a couple problems. The 914 motor that I thought was complete is missing the throttle body. It doesn't look like the 412 throttle body is going to bolt on without a lot of work. Oh well, I'll figure something out.

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Sun Jul 27, 2003 11:28 pm

Was the engine that came with the 412 a 1.7 or 1.8 and is it D-jet or L-jet FI.

A couple of 40IDFs would be sweet on that 914 moter!

vwfreek · Post by **vwfreek** » Mon Jul 28, 2003 10:14 am

The engine that came with the 412 is a 1.7 with D-jet.

Putting on a set of 40IDFs would probably be the easiest. But I'd prefer to have fuel injection. Later on I plan on going with forced induction and using Digifant I from a Corrado.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Jul 28, 2003 1:35 pm

The D-jet will run much better than the IDF's when properly tuned. Ray

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Sun Aug 10, 2003 11:20 pm

Do you know anyone that uses Digifant on a type 4 engine, or seen one on the web anywere. I know some have used CIS but haven't herd of anyone getting the later VW FI to work. This would be cool for there are a poop load of them around in junk yards. Let me know if you have seen a site.

vwfreek · Post by **vwfreek** » Mon Aug 11, 2003 9:46 am

I haven't seen any websites with Digifant on an aircooled motor. But there's a place that makes custom chips for Digifant I used on the Corrado. I guess they can recode it, so that the ECU will ignore sensors that aren't used such as the water temp on an aircooled motor.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Aug 11, 2003 6:21 pm

They can recode it...but not to ignore sensors. It has the bare minimum it needs for control. Anthing less...and you might as well use the simple programmable aftermarkets like CB and stay with a map sensor and TPS (no insult intended..I just find it kind of rudimentry) . But you can re-ballast/ or relocate the sensors to "lie" to themselves and the ECU to read differntly to affect running of the FI. For example...if the water temp sensor needs to be between 165 and 180F for proper running....and that equals say 250 ohms, but your standard oil temp on your ACVW runs toward the hot side like 220.... you will have a problem, because the Ohms rise with temperature. Its max value is around 7000 ohms. Either finding a way to drop that resistance baseline wwill have to be found...or the temperature sender will have to be located in an area where the oil stays cooler. It might even be located in the airstream down under the head...so its a bit more variale than it would be on a watercooled car. Or...you could simply install a thermotime switch...or a pair of them...that allowed you to warm up at the low end of the standard coolent temp range...and then simultaneously disconnects the coolent temp switch and switches it to a fixed inline resister...say...at 150F...and then switches it to say another ohm resistor with a 165 or 180F thermotime switch...both mounted in the oil sump plate. Ray