Hello all,
Well I just got my DuraBak in, comes in Gallon cans (black is $79.00) and a roller.
Yes, this stuff can be rolled, brushed or sprayed on.
The sample that they sent me was pretty impressive, it was on a thin sheet of tin, about 1"X 1" square, and had a layer of this stuff on it. I tried for days to scratch the stuff off, but it held tight.
It has a bunch of chewed up rubber in it for texture, but you can order it with out this stuff too.
I will be putting it in the inside and under pan of the thing in the near furture, and will give you and update then.
http://www.nonslipcoating.com/
There are people that have painted there offroad cars completly with this stuff.
It comes in like 15 colors, so should be able to find one that matches what you need.
I bought two gallons, as I want it to be rather thick (they sat that you can build it up to any thinckness.) We will see how it works. They say that a gallon is enough to do a standard truck bed, so 1 gallon should do a thing just fine, mine will be twice as thick I guess.
It is a better option then going down and having someone spay on a coating that costs about 4X as much.
Randy
DuraBak DIY Bedliner
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nthang
I coated the interior and underneath of my thing with a (commercially well known) waterproof coating and am very happy with it. My interior holds water untill the drain plugs are pulled or the water runs over the rockers and out the door openings because all seams, butt joints, holes, etc were correctly sealed with polyurethane joint sealant (aka commercial grade caulking) prior to applying the coating. I used both roller grade for the vertical surfaces and self-leveling for the horizontal surfaces. The coating is about 3/4" thick on the floors. It makes my Thing feel much more solid and quiet, added benefits to coating.
As a commercial waterproofing contractor in business for many years, I would have heard of Durabak before now if it were even regionally used for commercial waterproofing applications, like multi-level parking structure decks, stadiums, roofing, etc. That is not to suggest that it is not good, Randy. New perhaps, is all that I am implying here. The "one product does it all" approach does always raise my suspicion, especially when they never speak of any guarantee or warranty (against loss of adhesion, blistering, etc....the common failures of these type coatings) for any length of time, whatsoever (hint: no warranty). I would recommend that you prime the substates with a solvent based primer (por 15 would be excellent here; rustoleum works too) then apply the coating. These paints will make a much stronger bond to bare metal than the polyurethane ever will. Whatever you do here, make sure that you clean the surfaces to be coated with xylene and clean, cotton rags (man made fabric rags will break down and leave a residue affecting the bond) just prior to coating. Let the xylene flash for a couple of minutes, then apply the DuraBak. Do not hesitate to cut the material with xylene to thin it down to brush it into hard to reach places. Its partially made of xylene, therefore, it likes xylene. Moreover, if you apply one coat today and the second or additional coat tomorrow or later, XYLENE wipe the entire surface with clean cotton rags prior to the additional coat. This will reactivate the older coating, making it tacky, creating a tenacious bond between coats. Clean your tools with xylene. Wear a respirator, chemical gloves, safety glasses and old clothes. My guys and all the industry crews wear cheap golf shoes with metal spikes when applying urethane coating to floors, then, throw them away after the job. That way your shoes don't get stuck in the coating. When the coating kicks there is no turning back. Don't forget to do all the caulking before you apply the coating....you can make it very attractive that way and totally waterproof for many years. Get the polyurethane caulking from a waterproofing supply house in LV. Don't try anything from Home Depot for this particular application as it will not work and cause much grief when it fails. Hope this helps. By the way. is your plan to buy the T4 from Jake Raby??? Sounds like a radical machine.
As a commercial waterproofing contractor in business for many years, I would have heard of Durabak before now if it were even regionally used for commercial waterproofing applications, like multi-level parking structure decks, stadiums, roofing, etc. That is not to suggest that it is not good, Randy. New perhaps, is all that I am implying here. The "one product does it all" approach does always raise my suspicion, especially when they never speak of any guarantee or warranty (against loss of adhesion, blistering, etc....the common failures of these type coatings) for any length of time, whatsoever (hint: no warranty). I would recommend that you prime the substates with a solvent based primer (por 15 would be excellent here; rustoleum works too) then apply the coating. These paints will make a much stronger bond to bare metal than the polyurethane ever will. Whatever you do here, make sure that you clean the surfaces to be coated with xylene and clean, cotton rags (man made fabric rags will break down and leave a residue affecting the bond) just prior to coating. Let the xylene flash for a couple of minutes, then apply the DuraBak. Do not hesitate to cut the material with xylene to thin it down to brush it into hard to reach places. Its partially made of xylene, therefore, it likes xylene. Moreover, if you apply one coat today and the second or additional coat tomorrow or later, XYLENE wipe the entire surface with clean cotton rags prior to the additional coat. This will reactivate the older coating, making it tacky, creating a tenacious bond between coats. Clean your tools with xylene. Wear a respirator, chemical gloves, safety glasses and old clothes. My guys and all the industry crews wear cheap golf shoes with metal spikes when applying urethane coating to floors, then, throw them away after the job. That way your shoes don't get stuck in the coating. When the coating kicks there is no turning back. Don't forget to do all the caulking before you apply the coating....you can make it very attractive that way and totally waterproof for many years. Get the polyurethane caulking from a waterproofing supply house in LV. Don't try anything from Home Depot for this particular application as it will not work and cause much grief when it fails. Hope this helps. By the way. is your plan to buy the T4 from Jake Raby??? Sounds like a radical machine.
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rfoutch
- Posts: 68
- Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 9:37 am
Thanks for the info...
I checked them out, and they seem to be on the level. I will let you all know how it works out...
Yes the plan is to get the t4 from Jake, but I will purchase a 914 2.0 that is in running condition to do for now, then come rebuild time, it is off to jake for the beefing up.
Bus trans and axels with 1 1/2 longer 3" wider rear trailing arms. Still debating the front, but may just go ahead and change out to a link pin front end. But still debating that.
I will be instaling wide five discs and centerlines at all four corners.
Full 6 point roll cage. Beard super seats front and rear.
That is all of the plan so far, I have enough projects with that, as I finish each I will think about what is next.
Needless to say, I will have a lot of nice Stock (used for less then 30K miles) that I will be letting go of, including some original seats with no tears.
So if you are looking for some really nice stock stuff, I got it, and will let it go at a fair price. (fair to me would be pretty cheap to most!, I hate people that inflate prices!!!)
Randy
I checked them out, and they seem to be on the level. I will let you all know how it works out...
Yes the plan is to get the t4 from Jake, but I will purchase a 914 2.0 that is in running condition to do for now, then come rebuild time, it is off to jake for the beefing up.
Bus trans and axels with 1 1/2 longer 3" wider rear trailing arms. Still debating the front, but may just go ahead and change out to a link pin front end. But still debating that.
I will be instaling wide five discs and centerlines at all four corners.
Full 6 point roll cage. Beard super seats front and rear.
That is all of the plan so far, I have enough projects with that, as I finish each I will think about what is next.
Needless to say, I will have a lot of nice Stock (used for less then 30K miles) that I will be letting go of, including some original seats with no tears.
So if you are looking for some really nice stock stuff, I got it, and will let it go at a fair price. (fair to me would be pretty cheap to most!, I hate people that inflate prices!!!)
Randy
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nthang
Another tip about the coating: use sugar sand (sandblast sand; finest grit) to extend the coating and/or to creat a fine skid proof surfaces. There are probably surfaces on the interior that you don't want the heavy texture of the ground up tires. In those places sprinkle sand in the coating and backroll the wet coating until the sand is encapsulated (easy to do). When dry the coating will textured like 250 grit sand paper....perfect for many surfaces in a baja vehicle. And its tough as nails to last long. Just make sure that the sand is DRY as a bone. Even put it on a cookie sheet and bake it in your oven for a half hour to get any moisture out.
I have a spool gun for welding aluminum in the mig process, a plasma cutter, and lots of extra 1/8 & 1/4" aluminum plate lying around here as scrap. I'm thinking of making a custom size alum. gas tank, maybe 15-17 gal. by using the spare tire space in there. I'd also make a spare tire carrier for the rear or go without one since my thing driving is limited to 50 miles from home...."honey, I got a flat; bring the trailor out to....". Reminds me: I hitch hiked from Dallas to Montreal, figured out that there was a language barrier, then, hitched all the way to Vancouver. Stayed there till the money ran out and ended up as a cook at the famous Rosario Resort on Orcas Island for the summer back in 81'. Some folks would call that irresponsible. Go figure.
I have a spool gun for welding aluminum in the mig process, a plasma cutter, and lots of extra 1/8 & 1/4" aluminum plate lying around here as scrap. I'm thinking of making a custom size alum. gas tank, maybe 15-17 gal. by using the spare tire space in there. I'd also make a spare tire carrier for the rear or go without one since my thing driving is limited to 50 miles from home...."honey, I got a flat; bring the trailor out to....". Reminds me: I hitch hiked from Dallas to Montreal, figured out that there was a language barrier, then, hitched all the way to Vancouver. Stayed there till the money ran out and ended up as a cook at the famous Rosario Resort on Orcas Island for the summer back in 81'. Some folks would call that irresponsible. Go figure.
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Capn Skully
- Posts: 400
- Joined: Mon May 05, 2003 5:56 am
-
nthang
I have not seen JJ welding with flux'd alum rods....but you can buy them and braze/weld with sticks and oxy-acet. I have not done this so I defer to someone who has: http://www.tinmantech.com/html/aluminum ... ticle.html . This guy is a legend in his own mind....seems to know his stuff, though.
Most welders use TIG AC for aluminum because it penetrates where the smaller MIG machines won't. Also, forget what the Lincoln & Miller folks say about welding alum w/ a std. mig torch. Can be done with any consistency because the wire gets too hot and melts to the tip. When the wire motor forces new wire off the reel it instantly becomes "birdnest'd in the torch usually at the end of hose. You can try this a hundred times with .030 wire and not lay one inch of good weld. Enter the Spool Gun for the MIG process.
Welding with MIG and a spool gun is not quite as good, almost as pretty, almost as much penetration, but not quite. But its a thousand times faster than TIG (the downside of TIG is its SLOW). TIG is excellent but slow. The spool gun is fast. I works on alum. by having the spool and wire motor about six inches from the tip so that it can force the wire out, hot as hell, but out of the gun. It works beautifully and fast.
You will need a machine that runs on 230v or higher with a minimum of a 50 amp breaker dedicated to the machine. Aluminum is welded in the MIG process using negative polarity (work cable on neg.). Straight argon shielding gas. And the voltage turned all the way up to HOT. The metal must be very clean (no coatings, anodizing, sealers, etc) and brushed clean with a stainless bristle brush 10 second before the arc is struck, then after every pass. Its easy to do this.
MK products makes & private labels Lincoln's spool guns. It is considered one of the best in the industry, but expensive to buy. I have the "PrinceXL Spool Gun" with a 50' cord. Make sure that you check out how long std. cord is on the one that you are looking at. I would consider 25' the minimum for car, etc work to be able to move around without moving the power source. Most only come with 15' and the extra cord is Expensive. Most spool guns require a "control box" to operate. The box sits on your power source and acts as the go-between for adjusting voltage and wire speed. Some spool guns are make to "plug N play" directly into the power source w/o a control box. This is a great feature. But you have to coordinate this purchase. Hope this helped. I've been into welding for several years and try to keep up with the best way to do things. But, I am no expert by any means.
Most welders use TIG AC for aluminum because it penetrates where the smaller MIG machines won't. Also, forget what the Lincoln & Miller folks say about welding alum w/ a std. mig torch. Can be done with any consistency because the wire gets too hot and melts to the tip. When the wire motor forces new wire off the reel it instantly becomes "birdnest'd in the torch usually at the end of hose. You can try this a hundred times with .030 wire and not lay one inch of good weld. Enter the Spool Gun for the MIG process.
Welding with MIG and a spool gun is not quite as good, almost as pretty, almost as much penetration, but not quite. But its a thousand times faster than TIG (the downside of TIG is its SLOW). TIG is excellent but slow. The spool gun is fast. I works on alum. by having the spool and wire motor about six inches from the tip so that it can force the wire out, hot as hell, but out of the gun. It works beautifully and fast.
You will need a machine that runs on 230v or higher with a minimum of a 50 amp breaker dedicated to the machine. Aluminum is welded in the MIG process using negative polarity (work cable on neg.). Straight argon shielding gas. And the voltage turned all the way up to HOT. The metal must be very clean (no coatings, anodizing, sealers, etc) and brushed clean with a stainless bristle brush 10 second before the arc is struck, then after every pass. Its easy to do this.
MK products makes & private labels Lincoln's spool guns. It is considered one of the best in the industry, but expensive to buy. I have the "PrinceXL Spool Gun" with a 50' cord. Make sure that you check out how long std. cord is on the one that you are looking at. I would consider 25' the minimum for car, etc work to be able to move around without moving the power source. Most only come with 15' and the extra cord is Expensive. Most spool guns require a "control box" to operate. The box sits on your power source and acts as the go-between for adjusting voltage and wire speed. Some spool guns are make to "plug N play" directly into the power source w/o a control box. This is a great feature. But you have to coordinate this purchase. Hope this helped. I've been into welding for several years and try to keep up with the best way to do things. But, I am no expert by any means.