o.k. help needed please!.. 091 into thing...

Dunk · Post by **Dunk** » Sun Apr 18, 2004 1:42 pm

i know everyone says use the search facility.. but it really doesnt help that much for what i want to do:(...

i have a 182 i am in the midst of fitting a 091 gearbox to it...

i have the cheap $30 solid mount kit... its a start... however, i dont like it that much.. i need some form of vibration absorbtion!

i dont want the shifter on top of the tunnel...

how have you done it? did you shorten the shift rod? have you mounted any form of vibration damping on the box? what mounts did you use? does the box tilt up a lot?! does it shift into all the gears with out trouble?..

anyone have the Barrett Enterprises kit? or the webpage that shows it being fitted?.. what do you make of it?!...

any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.. the box is sitting in the frame horns and i need it in by the end of next week...

thanks...

ericj8 · Post by **ericj8** » Tue Apr 20, 2004 6:45 pm

Hi Dunk,
I am new to Things but I will tell you what I know. My thing has a 5 speed bus transmission. The shifter is on top of the tunnel. I do not have a picture at this time but will probably get one by the end of this week.

~ERic

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Wed Apr 21, 2004 10:00 am

Dunk when I put the bus transaxle into my Thing I used the same cheepo mount kit. I had to do a lot of modifcation to it but it eventually worked.
The kit you speak of from Barrett (now out of business) Enterprises is once again available through Suspensions Unlimited in Anahiem Ca.
That will not help you if next week is your deadline though. This link will show you the method I chose to use in order to keep the shift rod in the tunnel without having to tip the engine(not an option in a Thing).
www.offroadvw.net look at the Baja rebuild diary of Baja Wes and in his July entries. What he calls the Mike Sharp method. It worked very well for me. He makes a little more of fitting the throttle and clutch cables than neccessary but the coupling method is what I liked and used. Keep us posted as you go. Minnesota Air Head is making a web page on this conversion right now as he goes through it. A few of us here have already completed it and are ready to assist you with answers as you need them. Best luck. Bob Ingman

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 11:24 am

Dunk this is the kit you are looking for I think and the techs on the 091 install
http://members.cox.net/troy383/091.html
Let us know if this is of help to you. Best of luck. Bob Ingman

Dunk · Post by **Dunk** » Thu Apr 22, 2004 11:49 am

Cheers guys.. thanks for the links and info... it all helps:)

still having trouble with the front mount.. have got the clearence i require.. but not sure what to do to protect the nosecone...

might try and mount it porsche style similar to the installation of a 901 porsche tranny in a bug.. we shall see!

transmission is moved at least an inch back and still mounts up to the shift rod.. will probably need to shorten the shift rod a bit though!

will keep you informed if i get it working!

anymore anyone?!...

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Thu Apr 29, 2004 10:47 am

Dunc here is another link that could help http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Dunes/4099/bustranny.html
Good luck. Let us know how you`re doing as you go. Bob Ingman

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Sun May 09, 2004 7:00 pm

I found a 3 rib in a junked 69 with a ruunning T1 engine the guy wants 200 for the tranny from the rustbucket. I just drove and seems to work fine. Do you think it is worth that. I can also get moter axles and CVs for a total of $400. This guy has a lot of other 70-79 busses laying around if others in the midwest are looking for trannys. He said I could have my pic for $200 three rib to 6 rib.

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Sun May 09, 2004 9:42 pm

$200 is not a steal on a three rib but is not really robbery either. However $200 is a very good price on a six rib. They usually go for more (especially when you need one).
The six rib it the better trans. See the link above to trans talk by Eric De Bord.
There is soon to be a transaxle forum here on STF and he(henryhoehandle here) is to moderate. Thats going to be good. Get the six rib. Bob Ingman

Bruce2 · Post by **Bruce2** » Sun May 09, 2004 11:43 pm

Dunk, if you don't like the idea of the shifter on top of the tunnel, you can get the Berg intermediate housing adaptor. This allows the use of a Bug nosecone and hockey stick on a Bus g'box. It hooks up to your shift rod just like a stock Type 1 g'box.

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Mon May 10, 2004 6:47 am

With the Mike Sharp method you avoid the expense (should use caps on that word in this case) of Berg nose cone conversion. Although the nose cone conversion is probably the best way to do the job it is very expensive. After purchasing parts the transaxle must be taken to a qualified rebuilder to have them installed. You would have the ideal trans at that point if you are one of those that can afford this method.
Bruce we are to have a transaxle forum soon here at STF. Hope you are going to be one of the contributors. Your knowlege and input is needed there. Best of luck. Bob Ingman

Dunk · Post by **Dunk** » Mon May 10, 2004 11:37 am

gentlemen... thank you for all the advice/options.. please keep the info coming...

however.. its in!

the 6 rib box is mounted with a very berg-ish/porsche affair along with some of my own "stuff"...some of it is not pretty.. but its solid! has 6 ford engine mounts in there and another 2 to go on the engine brace bar when the motor goes in...

the box is moved approx 1" back.. and tilted very slightly.. the frame horns were heavily clearenced and rewelded back up along the seams.. alot of the spot welds werent doing anything! big gaps! check your framehorns people!

clutch and accelerator cable routings were moved.. am fitting the adjustable shift rod coupler this week hopefully...

will put a reduced throw (hurst style) shifter on there and see how bad it is!LOL.. may go to a berg if it works but is real sloppy...

bottom line: the shift rod is still in the tunnel! thank god:)

will try and post pics soon...

more questions:)...

i) for the adjustable shift coupler i need to use the early style shift rod connector.. yes?

ii)are there any simple mods i can do to the cv's to make them stand up to higher horsepower (i.e. over 120hp..)better?!... i dont intend to run the cv's at large angles, just dont want them to break easily!... and yes i know KEEPING 'EM GREASED! helps:)

iii) trekker and porsche 924/944 DRIVESHAFTS only.. is there any difference?... length? diameter?

thanks again people...

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Mon May 10, 2004 12:14 pm

Look here for some CV info.

http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_t ... ts_101.htm

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Mon May 10, 2004 12:17 pm

Woops her is the axle part of article

http://www.blindchickenracing.com/How_t ... es_101.htm

Dunk · Post by **Dunk** » Mon May 10, 2004 2:22 pm

thanks alsehendo....

so then, going by that website.. i presume seeing as im not in need of the extreme angles the trekker cv's provide... i should switch to bus cv's 'cos the ball bearings are larger?...

is my thinking correct?...

cheers:)