pedal assembly

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Wed Jun 02, 2004 8:42 pm

Both break and cluch pedals just started sticking. Is thier a grease cerrt on the assembly.

Do they usual y need to be rebuilt or just disassembled cleaned and lubed?

Do you remove it from under car?

Anyone have link on net for working on removing disasembling pedal assembly?

Glenn · Post by **Glenn** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 3:21 am

I'd assume the pedal cluster on a thing is the same as a Beetle. You remove the (2) 17mm bolts from inside the vehicle. I had to replace a broken clutch hook, so i took it all apart. It's easy with the only difficult step being to punch out the roll pin that holds on the clutch pedal. You'll also need a external snap ring plier to remove the brake pedal.

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 8:20 am

Thanks for the picture and info, I did one yesrs ago but forgot how and reference seems to be absent from my shop manuals.

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 8:48 am

Alsehendo I ususlly remove the drivers seat when doing this. It is not neccessary but gives you more room to work. Just a little time spent there will make the rest of the job easier.
Glenn thanks for providing such an excellent reference. Good luck. Bob Ingman

Glenn · Post by **Glenn** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 9:05 am

Bob,

A good friend just acquired a 73 Thing. So i'll probibly be in this forum asking questions as soon as he starts working on it.

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Thu Jun 03, 2004 9:08 am

Glenn thats good to hear. My guess is that you`ll be answering as many as you ask. We`re glad to have your knowlege here anytime. Good luck. Bob Ingman

Advokat · Post by **Advokat** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 9:33 am

I just rebuilt my second one last weekend. It is definitely the same as a Beetle as the parts I needed came from a Beetle I found in the junkyard.

I will caution you, however, that if you are working on a Thing that sat for awhile like mine had, there will be some problems removing that pin that holds things together. I had to heat, beat and cuss at that mother for a long time before it came loose.

Good luck,
Rick

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Fri Jun 04, 2004 9:45 am

Should`nt this thread be called pedal assembly disassembly? Everything said here so far is absolutely correct. Disassemble clean and lube> That being said I must admit that I have got away with washing the assembly in WD-40 while working the pedals. In the Thing which uses no carpet crud collects in the cracks and crevices and jams the works. It can be washed away from time to time. If time is short you might want to try this first and save the disassembly for restoration time. Cheers. Bob I.

alsehendo · Post by **alsehendo** » Wed Jun 09, 2004 11:09 pm

10 W 40 flush helped alot, break pedle still sticks sligtly cluch OK.

Probabbly will delay correct fix a bit.

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Thu Jun 10, 2004 8:04 am

alshendo try the WD-40 and work the pedal. I`m sure it will work it out. I`m afraid the 10 W 40 will gather more crud than it eliminates. Cheers. Bob

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Thu May 17, 2007 4:08 pm

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Thu May 17, 2007 9:56 pm

I always thought it wowuld be cool to have one of those high class hydraulic racing setups in a Thing for the clutch/brake assembly. You know like billet aluminum stuff deeply knurled sans rubber pads. Personally I always liked the roller gas pedal and was one of the first items I bought for mine. Cheers. Bob

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Fri May 18, 2007 5:05 am

We have a 73 custom Adventurewagen that has a autotrans. It is a great vehicle but we want to put a standard trans in it and ahve thought that a set of the Neil or CNC hydraulic pedal woudl be A) cool and B) allow the use of a a stardard trans

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Fri May 18, 2007 8:25 am

Kube unlike the auto-stick shift in the bug and Ghia the bus auto shift is highly regarded. I personally would prefere it behind a T-4 engine if highway traveling. They are (like the six rib) very tough units. I still have a 5-rib to get rid of however if you need one. Bob

Kubelmann · Post by **Kubelmann** » Fri May 18, 2007 5:12 pm

Thanks Bob. That is good to know. I need to get the carbs on this Camper and try driving it . It is orignal paint and interior and nearly perfect. The auto trans worried me. I have never run one. I sure had my life time's share of those rotten Bug autosticks. And the only thing good about them is the starter motor.... Had a new one off the showroom floor in 70 and got rid of it as soon as I could.

I am getting ready to put a 1776 in Kubel Panzer and she has a sour first syncho that has refused to be healed. I put some nice Casstrol multi in her box adn drove drained filled, drove drained adn put on some miles and managed to heal every woe but the sour first synchro. What about the five rib with the 1776 (with single zenith ndix) intend to drive up and down my mountain as a highway cruiser??