Advice please...putting a 412 on the road after 8 years
- MGVWfan
- Posts: 825
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:23 pm
Advice please...putting a 412 on the road after 8 years
Howdy! I've been lurking on the list, and looking (seeking and searching) for the last 18 months, looking for a 412 variant. I've found one
, a '73 with D-Jet and the usual 3-speed auto. It hasn't been on the road for 8 years (sitting in a carport), so I'm figuring I need to trailer it home, flush the brake system out, replace the brake seals, lube the front end, pull the tank and fuel system and clean it out, pull the Eberspaecher and clean it out, replace fuel lines and vacuum lines, etc. Anything else, like maybe pull the drivetrain and re-seal the transaxle, maybe pull the heads and see if there's anything untoward up in the jugs, lube generously and reassemble? Dropping the engine and trans for a look-see seems like good insurance, and not a terribly difficult job. Advice please?
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Check the brake system carefully. If you pull teh master cylinder and take care of the inevitable rust ring on the outsideend of teh cylinder, it may save some grief. There is little that you can grease on the front end....not saying it does not need it. Eventually you need to totally rebuild the front end....trust me. Just don't drive it too long before you start that process...or else you can destroy parts that are decent now...and hard to replace. The transaxle re-seal is 100% wise. Iwould get the brown bentley type 3 manual, get a new pan gasket and filter, drain clean then adjust the bands and main pressure to see what you have. Change the seal between the final drive and transfer case. Change the 90 weight oil in the final drive...and change the output flange seals. This is all dirt cheap. Change the rear engine seal while you are out. Replace all the D-jet hoses. Change the injector seals, change the runner boots and the o-ring behind the TB. Check and clean the trigger points. Get a fuel gauge and check the fuel pressure while running, after shut-down. Ray
- MGVWfan
- Posts: 825
- Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:23 pm
Thanks much for the good advice on the 8-year-laid-up 412, Ray. I was definitely doing the trans seals, you confirmed my caution. It's got 51K original miles, 30K put on it from 73-94, 20K in 94-96, and it's been stored under cover the whole time, so I'm pretty lucky.
What do I need to get after in the front end while I've got the wagon in the garage doing the trans etc.? Idler arm, adjust and refill the steering gearbox, tie rod ends...? MacPherson struts I understand well, but my recent (last 22 years) experience in steering gear has been with rack and pinion setups (MGB and MoPar FWD). Idler arms and drag links harkens back to my youth...and my old Anglia. I think I remember an old post on this forum about front end work, if it's that's the deal, I'll go dig it up, no need to describe details in this post (unless you want to!).
Great forum for a great vehicle.
What do I need to get after in the front end while I've got the wagon in the garage doing the trans etc.? Idler arm, adjust and refill the steering gearbox, tie rod ends...? MacPherson struts I understand well, but my recent (last 22 years) experience in steering gear has been with rack and pinion setups (MGB and MoPar FWD). Idler arms and drag links harkens back to my youth...and my old Anglia. I think I remember an old post on this forum about front end work, if it's that's the deal, I'll go dig it up, no need to describe details in this post (unless you want to!).
Great forum for a great vehicle.
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Dig up some of my overly long back posts. The problem is part age...not wear really....and part poor availability of parts. Some of it is correcting minor flaws in the design. Find new ball joints wether you need them or not. Modify them to be greasable...they will last forever. Get a bronze idler bushing...or have one made. Itsabout the same price either way.
Replace the center link. they are available. Just have to look for them. DS 858 is TRW part # for that. If you have a late 412...you already have the assymetrical bolt pattern ball joint. Ifnot, get them. They are cheaper, better and are same as late super-beetle. The strut cartridges will be hard. Whats out there...is ancient...and has the same defects as when they left the factory. If you are willing to get $100 of machine work done, I will provide the specs for a top stub that allows the use of KYB GR-2 from audi 4000s/quantum. Suuuuuuperb handling...and replacable. Ray
Replace the center link. they are available. Just have to look for them. DS 858 is TRW part # for that. If you have a late 412...you already have the assymetrical bolt pattern ball joint. Ifnot, get them. They are cheaper, better and are same as late super-beetle. The strut cartridges will be hard. Whats out there...is ancient...and has the same defects as when they left the factory. If you are willing to get $100 of machine work done, I will provide the specs for a top stub that allows the use of KYB GR-2 from audi 4000s/quantum. Suuuuuuperb handling...and replacable. Ray