Got a snazy new tail pipe for the 412. While taking the old one off, two of the bolts broke off in the muffler housing. Leaving one bolt to secure the new tail pipe.
Can I run it like this, or will I have to somehow back the broken bolt shafts out of the muffler (secured with rust and high temp), or is this just a lost cause and buy a new muffler?
Tail pipe: broken bolts
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DeathBus
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- Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 1:01 am
Re: Tail pipe: broken bolts
Buy a new muffler. Save yourself time and aggravation.67 T1 wrote:Got a snazy new tail pipe for the 412. While taking the old one off, two of the bolts broke off in the muffler housing. Leaving one bolt to secure the new tail pipe.
Can I run it like this, or will I have to somehow back the broken bolt shafts out of the muffler (secured with rust and high temp), or is this just a lost cause and buy a new muffler?
I have a performance exhaust I can throw your way for some $$
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... D2086%2D10
like this header and a glass pack.
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raygreenwood
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Just bear in mind, if you are injected, that header generally requires a slight fuel mixture adjustment. Also, it needs a strap. it generally breaks its own welds due to the muffler flopping around at the end.....but it works decent.
The worth of removing the bolts depends on what brand and how old the muffler is. I would put acid on them to get rid of the rust...then heat them...whack them...and drip parrafin on them...which gets drawn into the crevices when the bolt cools. Itworkd great. the wack them again and vice grip them out. Ray
The worth of removing the bolts depends on what brand and how old the muffler is. I would put acid on them to get rid of the rust...then heat them...whack them...and drip parrafin on them...which gets drawn into the crevices when the bolt cools. Itworkd great. the wack them again and vice grip them out. Ray
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vwbill
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Muffler on ebay
Hey check my post about front lenes on ebay that guy had a muffler for sale if that's the way you want to go. I think Ray way sound the way it go. Ray must have fixed or repair every part of a 412! Good Luck! Bill
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DeathBus
- Posts: 1176
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Or you can save yourself time and aggravation and buy a muffler. 
http://www.bustedbus.com/
has used mufflers for 72-74 buses (same as 412 exhaust) for $67 + shipping.
http://www.bustedbus.com/
has used mufflers for 72-74 buses (same as 412 exhaust) for $67 + shipping.
I totaly misunderstood what you were refering to 67T1! You ment the tailpipe itself, not the muffler bolts... DUH -
raygreenwood
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- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
DB..you are not far off. Those tail pipe bolts are usually the death song of a muffler. They go in deep. If they break off...and there is more rust than you think (usually is)...the drilling process starts cracking things around the exit flange. Its many times easier to just get another muffler.
Do this....if ane when you get them out....buy or make , 8mm bolts wth the thread cutting "groove" in them...just like those sheet metal bolts. I make mine with a dremel and cut-off wheel. Them...coat them in C5A copper anti-sieze compound, only use the copper exhaust nuts, and once a year...take each exhaust nut off...both header, gasket flange..and tailpipe...and re-anti-sieze. It takes 20 minutes and this will never happen again. Ray
Do this....if ane when you get them out....buy or make , 8mm bolts wth the thread cutting "groove" in them...just like those sheet metal bolts. I make mine with a dremel and cut-off wheel. Them...coat them in C5A copper anti-sieze compound, only use the copper exhaust nuts, and once a year...take each exhaust nut off...both header, gasket flange..and tailpipe...and re-anti-sieze. It takes 20 minutes and this will never happen again. Ray
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DeathBus
- Posts: 1176
- Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 1:01 am
I have never used copper exhaust nuts because I have heard they are to easy to strip, have you run into this problem Ray?raygreenwood wrote:DB..you are not far off. Those tail pipe bolts are usually the death song of a muffler. They go in deep. If they break off...and there is more rust than you think (usually is)...the drilling process starts cracking things around the exit flange. Its many times easier to just get another muffler.
Do this....if ane when you get them out....buy or make , 8mm bolts wth the thread cutting "groove" in them...just like those sheet metal bolts. I make mine with a dremel and cut-off wheel. Them...coat them in C5A copper anti-sieze compound, only use the copper exhaust nuts, and once a year...take each exhaust nut off...both header, gasket flange..and tailpipe...and re-anti-sieze. It takes 20 minutes and this will never happen again. Ray
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67 T1
- Posts: 264
- Joined: Thu Apr 22, 2004 2:03 pm
I think the muffler has about 3K on it, it looks really good and very little rust on the actual muffler.
The bolts broke off about 3/8" to 1/4" inside the houseing. No way to get a grip on them.
Would this work. Drill new holes in the tailpipe where it fits to the muffler, line it up on the muffler, mark the holes, then drill and tap new holes in the tailpipe/muffler mounting point? Or can you tap a hole that doesn't go all the way through,.....I've never tapped before....but I can break dance.
If not, then I try Ray's suggestion, and after I fail at that, get a new/used muffler.
The bolts broke off about 3/8" to 1/4" inside the houseing. No way to get a grip on them.
Would this work. Drill new holes in the tailpipe where it fits to the muffler, line it up on the muffler, mark the holes, then drill and tap new holes in the tailpipe/muffler mounting point? Or can you tap a hole that doesn't go all the way through,.....I've never tapped before....but I can break dance.
If not, then I try Ray's suggestion, and after I fail at that, get a new/used muffler.