Carburetor Issues

Jersey Thing · Post by **Jersey Thing** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 11:01 am

Greetings Gentlepersons -
Thanks for the insights in the forum. I have since changed the carburetor and new fuel pump. The engine starts like a trooper every time. The only other problem is that it seems that it dies after starting as if the throttle is not adjusted correctly.I have messed with the adjustment screw both extending and retracting.It seems like it is just not working correctly. I had bought a carb from JC Whitney and installed with the adapter, like i stated before it starts but cuts out if i do not keep the increasing the accelorator. Any thoughts?

Any thoughts on the Clutch cable?

thanks
Jersey thing

P.S. That really blows that someone would steal that Thing in Cali.

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 11:18 am

Joe what carb # do you have and what distributor and at what timing? Is your choke wired in and opening?
We`ll need that info to get started. Good to see you here. Bob

Post by **Marc** » Wed Oct 27, 2004 12:32 pm

Not really enough to go on yet, but kinda sounds like there could be an induction leak. Usually that will cause a slower-than-normal return to idle and/or a "rolling" idle (having the mixture adjusted too lean will do that too). Any such symptoms?
A JCWhitney carb with adapter? I'm guessing that's a Bocar H30/31PICT, it adjusts like any "2-screw" Solex - the small screw on the left is mixture, the large one is idle speed...and the fast-idle screw on the throttle arm is not to be used for curb-(warm) idle speed adjustment, it should be set to just contact the fast-idle cam when the choke is off.

Jersey Thing · Post by **Jersey Thing** » Thu Oct 28, 2004 8:40 am

Greetings -
Well I replaced the cap & rotor with Bosch, it is the original distributor, It starts like a trooper. The Carb I purchased is this one. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... Id-1001827 .More details to follow.

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Thu Oct 28, 2004 9:32 am

Joe do you have a double vacumn distributor? If so are both lines connected ?
What is the clutch problem you mention?
I fixed your link. Bob

Jersey Thing · Post by **Jersey Thing** » Mon Nov 01, 2004 6:12 am

Bob -
i am not sure about the double vacum...but all lines are re-conneceted. It would run with the old carb for hours....when i changed it. she starts. I think it maybe a throttle issue.

The clutch cable issue is this...you can shift the gear shift into 2 of the 4 gears. It also seems that there is no "clutch" to speak of. Is running this cable a tough task or am i better of taking it to someone that knows what they are doing.

Thanks
joe

Bob Ingman · Post by **Bob Ingman** » Mon Nov 01, 2004 7:32 am

Joe sounds as if you need a clutch adjustment. Or at least begin with that to see if it needs a replacement.
The pedal should have about 25mm (1") freeplay before you feel resistance. Use your hand to depress the pedal. If there is a lot of travel then go to the transaxle and see where the cable passes through an arm there on the rear drivers side of it. Notice a wing nut behind the arm that the cable passes through. That is the adjustment. You will need vise grips on the cable forward of the arm to prevent it from rotating as you turn the wing nut clockwise. That will shorten the cable and compensate for wear. Its a natural occurance that need to be addressed about every 30,000 miles or so. Just takes a minute or two.
Changing the cable is a bit more complicated but not beyond doing the first time by yourself. Lets see if you really need that after adjusting. Just be sure to look at the cable when you are under the car to see if it is beginning to fray or unravel. Keep us posted. Bob Ingman