Gas Heater Spare Parts
- Bob Ingman
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2001 12:01 am
Gas Heater Spare Parts
I am interested in obtaining spare parts for my heater. Things are beginning to go wrong and I have no spare parts. Thanks. Bob
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 12:16 pm
Gas Heater Spare Parts
Hello Bob
You should get in touch with Mike Basso, at Thingsunlimited.net
I know that he has got some used parts (and NOS also) for the BN4 heaters.
Regards
Pierre-J MACUA
You should get in touch with Mike Basso, at Thingsunlimited.net
I know that he has got some used parts (and NOS also) for the BN4 heaters.
Regards
Pierre-J MACUA
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- Posts: 400
- Joined: Mon May 05, 2003 5:56 am
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- Posts: 400
- Joined: Mon May 05, 2003 5:56 am
- Bob Ingman
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2001 12:01 am
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 12:16 pm
temp. regulating switch
Hello Bob
Are you talking about the temp. regulating switch?
There are 2 kind of TRS.
Have you got this one?
It is the most reliable.
You can test it. Use a continuity tester (or for OHMS) and a hair dryer.
Regards
Pierre-J MACUA
Are you talking about the temp. regulating switch?
There are 2 kind of TRS.
Have you got this one?
It is the most reliable.
You can test it. Use a continuity tester (or for OHMS) and a hair dryer.
Regards
Pierre-J MACUA
- Bob Ingman
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2001 12:01 am
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 12:16 pm
TRS
We have the same TRS.
You should remove yours from the car.
Use a continuity tester (or for Ohms), and a hair dryer.
When the TRS is cold, reading should be 0 in Ohms
When hot, reading should be infinite.
If the readings are correct, put the TRS back in the car, and grease the cable.
Regards
Pierre-J MACUA
You should remove yours from the car.
Use a continuity tester (or for Ohms), and a hair dryer.
When the TRS is cold, reading should be 0 in Ohms
When hot, reading should be infinite.
If the readings are correct, put the TRS back in the car, and grease the cable.
Regards
Pierre-J MACUA
- Bob Ingman
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2001 12:01 am
Pierre I have my heater on a toggle and have eliminated the timer switch on the dash after a near fatal malfunction several years ago. My problem with that switch is in the connections. Sometimes the heater will not come on (blower start up) until I jiggle the wires a bit then it comes on and runs normally. Occasionly it will shut off by itself and again jiggling the wires will restore function once again.
What would happen if I bypass the switch and join the two wires? Thanks. Bob Ingman
What would happen if I bypass the switch and join the two wires? Thanks. Bob Ingman
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 12:16 pm
TRS
When the TRS is cold, there is some space between the two parts of the spring.
Between the 2 terminals on the top, reading in Ohms is 0. No resistance. The circuit is closed. So the metering fuel pump gets voltage and gives fuel. The heat raises.
When the TRS is very hot (maximum temp.), there is contact between the two parts of the spring. Between the 2 terminals on the top, reading in Ohms is infinite. The circuit is opened. The metering fuel pump doesn't get voltage. So it doesn't give anymore fuel until the heat has declined.
When the heat has declined so much that there is again some space between the two parts of the spring, the circuit is again closed so the fuel pump gives again fuel. So the temperature raises.
And so on.
The TRS is necessary.
When you join the 2 wires, it closes the circuit so the fuel pump gets voltage and gives fuel.
But your heater will have an overheat if you keep the 2 wires always together.
Sorry for my bad technical english.
Pierre-J MACUA
Between the 2 terminals on the top, reading in Ohms is 0. No resistance. The circuit is closed. So the metering fuel pump gets voltage and gives fuel. The heat raises.
When the TRS is very hot (maximum temp.), there is contact between the two parts of the spring. Between the 2 terminals on the top, reading in Ohms is infinite. The circuit is opened. The metering fuel pump doesn't get voltage. So it doesn't give anymore fuel until the heat has declined.
When the heat has declined so much that there is again some space between the two parts of the spring, the circuit is again closed so the fuel pump gives again fuel. So the temperature raises.
And so on.
The TRS is necessary.
When you join the 2 wires, it closes the circuit so the fuel pump gets voltage and gives fuel.
But your heater will have an overheat if you keep the 2 wires always together.
Sorry for my bad technical english.
Pierre-J MACUA
- Bob Ingman
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2001 12:01 am
- Bob Ingman
- Posts: 2869
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2001 12:01 am
Pierre I decided to try bypassing the switch. Used a jump lead to connect both terminals simeotaneously. Guess what. Works perfectly now. When I smell something that smells like my right knee melting I know its time to turn the heater off. My timer has been replaced with a toggle . I drove to another village across the island today switching the heater on and off many times and it functioned normally. Will be looking into some serious parts replacement soon. Cheers. Bob Ingman
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- Posts: 39
- Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 12:16 pm
Heater manual
Hello Bob,
Mike B. sells a VW Thing heater manual.
http://members.aol.com/mpb181/page1.html
Regards
Pierre-J MACUA
Mike B. sells a VW Thing heater manual.
http://members.aol.com/mpb181/page1.html
Regards
Pierre-J MACUA