Return of the clutch slave question.
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Erik H
Return of the clutch slave question.
A request for pictures and/or assistance of any sort regarding the Audi 5000 mod/replacement of the 4sp clutch slave cylinder. Back posts have been used, but the results are poor. A picture can speak a thousand words, and in this case- we need'em. Help.
ps. Besides Ray, who else is running this set-up? Mr. Uber...?
Thanks,
Erik
ps. Besides Ray, who else is running this set-up? Mr. Uber...?
Thanks,
Erik
- ubercrap
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm
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Erik H
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
All right....I own a digital camera. I will need some assistance in either posting pictures, learning to post them, or letting someone else post them.
I have made the mod, I know it works, but since there is no engine in right now...I really can't tell you how it works. But...it will make the pedal pressure feel harder as the piston area is smaller than the 44.5mm stock 411/412 slave.
A reducing flange/bracket needed to be fabbed. Not hard. The best way to set the "throw" of this cyclinder is with shims of the same shape at the mount....and using longer studs in the case. Its best to use the stock pushrod.
I also had a better idea....just last week.
I will have info on this in early January. Hang onto you slave cylinders as they are. I was checking on having some synchro hubs nickle plated. I started thinking that plating and polishing the slave cylinders could be a cheap way to get rid of all of the surface and dimensional defects. Also...I have about 10 of them. I could do a batch. Then there i the piston. Its ok...but has two defects. (1) The part behind the seal (pressure side) is the same diameter as the rest of the piston. There is no way to really get pressure up behind the seal cup. This causes wear. I drilled vents in mine will a pin-vise...worked much better. (2) the seal is so far back that the piston has a habit of slightly cocking in the bore. This eventually causes piston wear and seal leakage. Turning or grinding a 1/2" wide band about .020" deep and putting in a teflon packing to keep down friction and keep the piston centered...works great and is cheap.
Now...the seal and the boot. The boot is easy. I have several (crispy but intact).I will soon make a mold for it. I have numerous things to vacuum cast at the same time. The seal....hmmm. I have found several U-cups...not shaft seal variety mind you.....that fit well, but were of the wrong material. My previously successful replacemnets I had made by a company back in 1995. Superb work. I am trying to access them now...for several reasons. I could have them machined from viton.
A viton sealed , teflon packed, 600F silicone booted, and nickle alloy plated "kit" would solve the problems don't you think? It would probably be the last kit you would ever need. Ray
I have made the mod, I know it works, but since there is no engine in right now...I really can't tell you how it works. But...it will make the pedal pressure feel harder as the piston area is smaller than the 44.5mm stock 411/412 slave.
A reducing flange/bracket needed to be fabbed. Not hard. The best way to set the "throw" of this cyclinder is with shims of the same shape at the mount....and using longer studs in the case. Its best to use the stock pushrod.
I also had a better idea....just last week.
I will have info on this in early January. Hang onto you slave cylinders as they are. I was checking on having some synchro hubs nickle plated. I started thinking that plating and polishing the slave cylinders could be a cheap way to get rid of all of the surface and dimensional defects. Also...I have about 10 of them. I could do a batch. Then there i the piston. Its ok...but has two defects. (1) The part behind the seal (pressure side) is the same diameter as the rest of the piston. There is no way to really get pressure up behind the seal cup. This causes wear. I drilled vents in mine will a pin-vise...worked much better. (2) the seal is so far back that the piston has a habit of slightly cocking in the bore. This eventually causes piston wear and seal leakage. Turning or grinding a 1/2" wide band about .020" deep and putting in a teflon packing to keep down friction and keep the piston centered...works great and is cheap.
Now...the seal and the boot. The boot is easy. I have several (crispy but intact).I will soon make a mold for it. I have numerous things to vacuum cast at the same time. The seal....hmmm. I have found several U-cups...not shaft seal variety mind you.....that fit well, but were of the wrong material. My previously successful replacemnets I had made by a company back in 1995. Superb work. I am trying to access them now...for several reasons. I could have them machined from viton.
A viton sealed , teflon packed, 600F silicone booted, and nickle alloy plated "kit" would solve the problems don't you think? It would probably be the last kit you would ever need. Ray
- Marc
- Moderator
- Posts: 23741
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 12:01 am
Ray, first step is to find a place to upload the photos to. Here's one I like:
http://photobucket.com/register.php
http://photobucket.com/register.php
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
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Erik H
Now, where were we.....Clutch slaves. Uber, did that fellow ever email you back regarding that NOS slave? Ray's plate seems a bit full right now. Besides, now that I think about it, if I had to choose, the front end rebuild would be at the top of my list of desires. So I can wait on the Audi solution for now. Anyone else with sources for clutch slaves?
Anyway,
Nice to see the site back up. Saves a trip to Dallas and a waste of more of Ray's time. I had not archived his posts in months- I'd be lost.
Anyway,
Nice to see the site back up. Saves a trip to Dallas and a waste of more of Ray's time. I had not archived his posts in months- I'd be lost.
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Erik H
- ubercrap
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm
Still waiting for the cylinder...but in the mean time, you might want to bid on this, though it looks a bit deteriorated by the outside condition...Just thought you might like to know.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... RK:MEWA:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... RK:MEWA:IT
- ubercrap
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm
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vwbill
- Posts: 970
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
clutch hyd parts
Hey Guys , here are the two kit numbers I got and the parts listing from FTE. RK19221(ClutchMaster Kit)
H19300L-Sealing Ring
M1905T-Seal
H0203-Retaining Ring
H1750-Protecting Cap
A0787-Gasket Ring
(H19304-Extra Cup found in 412 master,not in orig kit)
RK44010-Slave Kit
H4435-Sealing Ring
K4450-Protecting Cap
R0164-Clamping ring
Note only H4435 available from FTE
According to FTE the kits are nolonger available but I ordered the parts which were. I have all the master parts plus the extra cup listed and the only slave kit part H4435. All I ask for them is the cost(not shipping) and I will send you two of the parts if I have them. I wont charge you twice just send two if I can so if you mess one up! Hope this helps you guys maybe FTE is making the kits now I dont know The rep is Christine Hammer at christine.hammer@fte.de. It was a pain to get them here with the rubber parts issue and security! Hope this help guys, Bill
p.s. also I have the big slave cyl. maybe Ray can tell us if there were two different ones.
H19300L-Sealing Ring
M1905T-Seal
H0203-Retaining Ring
H1750-Protecting Cap
A0787-Gasket Ring
(H19304-Extra Cup found in 412 master,not in orig kit)
RK44010-Slave Kit
H4435-Sealing Ring
K4450-Protecting Cap
R0164-Clamping ring
Note only H4435 available from FTE
According to FTE the kits are nolonger available but I ordered the parts which were. I have all the master parts plus the extra cup listed and the only slave kit part H4435. All I ask for them is the cost(not shipping) and I will send you two of the parts if I have them. I wont charge you twice just send two if I can so if you mess one up! Hope this helps you guys maybe FTE is making the kits now I dont know The rep is Christine Hammer at christine.hammer@fte.de. It was a pain to get them here with the rubber parts issue and security! Hope this help guys, Bill
p.s. also I have the big slave cyl. maybe Ray can tell us if there were two different ones.
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Yes, there were two different slaves. The early one is a totally different confiuration....different bell housing, clutch fork etc. Chances of you ever seeing one is nil. They only arrived here in the first half of the first year of 411 (1971). They were 19mm id. All others are the 44.5mm variety. If you get the wrong kit...it will be totally unusable.
There were two different pistons. The first had a single seal. These pistons need slight mods that anyone can do in 5 minutes to be better servicable. The second poston had two seals . An inner...and an outer. It had two grooves. I have never actually had one in my hand. But, since it fits the same cylinder...chances are, that save for the second groove...all else is the same. You should be able to use a single seal on the double groove piston ...as the second seal was 100% useless for anything other than to keep some dust out. It ran dry all the time..and wore out anyway.
If you get a kit with an extra seal...count yourself lucky and keep it as a spare.
Be wary of the master cylinder kits. There was an FAG cylinder and an ATE cylinder. They use very slightly different oistoins, but can interchange if a small amount of widening to the hole in the fluid fill is done. Generally though...the real difference between the tgwo was the fit of the seals on the outer end of the piston. There were slight differences to the seal. Th only universal make I knew of ...was sheaffer. Ray
There were two different pistons. The first had a single seal. These pistons need slight mods that anyone can do in 5 minutes to be better servicable. The second poston had two seals . An inner...and an outer. It had two grooves. I have never actually had one in my hand. But, since it fits the same cylinder...chances are, that save for the second groove...all else is the same. You should be able to use a single seal on the double groove piston ...as the second seal was 100% useless for anything other than to keep some dust out. It ran dry all the time..and wore out anyway.
If you get a kit with an extra seal...count yourself lucky and keep it as a spare.
Be wary of the master cylinder kits. There was an FAG cylinder and an ATE cylinder. They use very slightly different oistoins, but can interchange if a small amount of widening to the hole in the fluid fill is done. Generally though...the real difference between the tgwo was the fit of the seals on the outer end of the piston. There were slight differences to the seal. Th only universal make I knew of ...was sheaffer. Ray