why build a T5 and not A T4

Post by **Piledriver** » Wed Feb 02, 2005 10:37 pm

"T5" USES T1 heads...

If you have a wasser motor, and are thinking "turbo" I suggest you might just think about keeping it water cooled, particularly if it is indended to be a driver.

The ability to have REAL HEAT practically for free is a nice bonus.

The wasser heads flow well, (or can be made to do so) and they tend to stay on under boost. They just need real work if you are revving >7500 or wild lifts.
.

Even a 1.9 is a "factory 1914", put some H-beams in an otherwise stock setup, and blow.
Perhaps some ARP head studs..
Even all stock internals have held up to some rediculous boost.

I know the radiator is a PITA...

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Thu Feb 03, 2005 8:32 am

Vtec this:: Mike, The vanagon block is a die cast not sand cast as with the new brazil cases. It comes with a 1.5 sump built right in. It has a full flow feature oil system. Now the bad part it is not cheap to re-machine the block & do it right. Use a 94mm P&c kit with a 86 stroke. That way you can use bug type heads. With the 101.6 P&Cs you would have to use a head like the AutoCraft 910s. Rocky

vtec this · Post by **vtec this** » Thu Feb 03, 2005 8:57 am

I saw some of those 910's on the samba for $5,000!!! that is pretty wild. i think i will stick with the stock setup minus the watercooling. I would like the max stroke out of it since i am limited to 94mm pistons. i think there is someone in the Netherlands with a 90mm full circle crank in one? I guess i should not speak like that. my budget will determine what goes into this engine. in that case, more realistically speaking, i can get the jackets cut, and runn 94's on what ever crank that is in there. So is it $900-1300 to cut the jackets and put in the spacer for type 1 cylinders at Rocky Jennings?
thanks-mike

Max keltvik · Post by **Max keltvik** » Fri Feb 04, 2005 10:39 am

I have a 90mm in a 2.1 case. It drops in! The cam is the only problem. I'm lookingt in how to make a t-1 (044 and S/F) head fit the 101.6mm cylinders.

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Fri Feb 04, 2005 11:47 am

Max, When you say it drops right in what rods are you using? The crank will go in but how much do you have to clearance for the rods. Use a junk cam die grind it to see how much needs to be taken off for it to clear the rods. Rocky

Max keltvik · Post by **Max keltvik** » Fri Feb 04, 2005 3:24 pm

Scat 5.7" rods is on the 90mm crank, the cam is made to fit (TSC 30). I have a set of alu Pauter 6" rods that's taking the Scat's place soon.

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Fri Feb 04, 2005 3:50 pm

Max: The alum. pauter rods are over 2mm .090 wider on the big end. That means you will have trim .045 more off the cam. How wide are the scat 5.7s the pauter alum 6.0 are 3.340 wide. Rocky

Max keltvik · Post by **Max keltvik** » Sat Feb 05, 2005 12:38 pm

The Scat's are 80.5mm/3.169". I'm going to trim the Pauters to fit the cam...

_INDY_ · Post by **_INDY_** » Sat Feb 05, 2005 8:16 pm

would you trade 2 1.9 and 3 2.1 blocks for 1 block that is ready to go?

i got a tonne(litterally) of blocks i can't use cos noone around here knows nothing about vw's

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 11:23 am

Max do you have the pauter rods? Be very carefull on how & how much you take of the cam as it will be very thin & weak if not done right. Rocky

Max keltvik · Post by **Max keltvik** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 11:26 am

Yes I have the Pouters. I'm going to make the rods fit the cam, not make the cam fit the rods...

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 11:28 am

_INDY_ who are you directing your questions on the blocks you have. Rocky

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Sun Feb 06, 2005 11:33 am

Max don't know if you can safely take much off the aluminum beam rods they are pretty thin as it is. Good luck. Rocky