Dropping Transmission

Discuss with fans and owners of the most luxurious aircooled sedan/wagon that VW ever made, the VW 411/412. Official forum of Tom's Type 4 Corner.
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MGVWfan
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Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:23 pm

Post by MGVWfan »

Must be your deodorant DB...the Nomad's CV joint bolts came out without protest, all 24 of them :P
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
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DeathBus
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Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 1:01 am

Post by DeathBus »

MGVWfan wrote:Must be your deodorant DB...the Nomad's CV joint bolts came out without protest, all 24 of them :P
Then they were not on tight enough! :shock: :lol:

Your lucky! :wink:
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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood »

Rebuild is one thing...just replacing the case seals is about an hour plus. Ray
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MGVWfan
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Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:23 pm

Post by MGVWfan »

It helps that they were never exposed to road salt, I guess...one benefit to living in Texas!
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
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raygreenwood
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Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am

Post by raygreenwood »

Nope plenty of road salt in the area. I drive in Oklahoma a lot too. What helps with the CV bolts...is to install them after you have sparingly applied a good anti-sieze compound. Then...find and use the proper washers that came on the CV bolts. They are the same as those on teh case bolts of the engine.....a grade 10.5 serrated bellville washer. That way...you can torque the bolts NORMALLY...instead of overtightening them....and they will never back out...but will come loose easily. Then make dang sure to occasionaly wash underneath to keep grease and dirt out of the splines. In fact...if you have grease on them...its time to check those diff side seals and CV boots. Ray
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DeathBus
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Joined: Mon Sep 30, 2002 1:01 am

Post by DeathBus »

raygreenwood wrote:Nope plenty of road salt in the area. I drive in Oklahoma a lot too. What helps with the CV bolts...is to install them after you have sparingly applied a good anti-sieze compound. Then...find and use the proper washers that came on the CV bolts. They are the same as those on teh case bolts of the engine.....a grade 10.5 serrated bellville washer. That way...you can torque the bolts NORMALLY...instead of overtightening them....and they will never back out...but will come loose easily. Then make dang sure to occasionaly wash underneath to keep grease and dirt out of the splines. In fact...if you have grease on them...its time to check those diff side seals and CV boots. Ray
Damn cv bolts
Bowman74
Posts: 51
Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 9:33 pm

Re: Have to stop racing ricers! LOL!

Post by Bowman74 »

vwbill wrote:Hey, sorry you got the project a coming! I think i would only do the tranny alone if I had access to a lift and tranny stands!! Too much heavy stuff to deal with and you end up just spending the time in frustration to get stuff out and in! Then you can clean alot easier and check mounts as you go! Hey we all know why you trashed the seal!
You were doing too many burn outs at the traffic lights when you dont need too with a 411/412,lololol!!! Take lots of pics! Please!! thxbill
Yea Bill when I decide to go out and have some fun taking an offramp at 80 mph I look at the 914 and the 412 and then finally decide on the 412... not! :lol:

I'll get some pics. I have a least three different engine/tranny pulls to do this spring. When I get the engine/tranny back in the Thing, I'll move on to the 412.

Thanks,

Kevin
Bowman74
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Joined: Mon Nov 22, 2004 9:33 pm

Post by Bowman74 »

raygreenwood wrote:Yep...the CV's are ugly, but...I have caps to cover the neds. I use a 1/4" breaker bar and ratchet with a 1/4 to 3/8" adapter to crack them loose...then air ratchet them off. I keep the splines in teh CV bolts rligiously clean.

By the way....the auto boxes require new seals every 7 years or 70k. If the converter seal is shot...the transfer case to diff seal is very close to it.
Trust me...there will no warning when it fails....just scrap metal. Its only an hour or so of work to totally put new seals on the tranny. The seal will always fail.

Another thing that wears out the converter seal...is improper alignment of the driveline package. The book is critical about this. There are 4 adjusting points and 3 measurements to be made. You must have a good tail cone bumper and good center and rear hanger mounts. I will explain more in detail later. I have also posted on this several times. Ray
Ray,
When I get the engine back in the thing and am ordering parts for this project I'll will tak your advice to heart and possibly send you some probing messages! :) Darn auto transmissions. I hate em but I love my 412.

Thanks,

Kevin
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MGVWfan
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Joined: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:23 pm

Post by MGVWfan »

Good ideas Ray :) especially washing the crud away from time to time...that really saves time and temper down the road.

Good luck with the vehicles Bowman...my 412 is up to 8 months now and counting...argh!
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
04 Golf TDI (45 MPG)
09 JSW (love it, love it, love it!)
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