OK, injector seals in...

MGVWfan · Post by **MGVWfan** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 8:40 am

As for identifying L-Jet vs D-Jet, take a look at this photo of my D-Jet '73 412 Variant, upper right corner of the image...

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_ ... _id=109392

If you've got a silver thing about the size of your fist with a little snout on it, you've got D-Jetronic FI. The silver thing noted in the linked image is the Manifold Pressure Sensor, and it's unique to D-Jetronic.

DeathBus · Post by **DeathBus** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 8:46 am

ubercrap wrote:Well, one would almost think that the bumpers have been changed, but they can't interchange very easily due to their completely different mounting systems. I'll know soon enough, as I go home during lunch, and I'll take a look. Maybe the 2dr.'s have some exceptions to the general type 4 rules of year identification?

Nope, the one thing VW was good at was keeping their numbering system correct.

now i know dealing with buses that when a new production year would end and another would begin, the year prior parts that were left over would be used on the next year. This is real evident in 66 to 67 BUGS and split window buses, I have a friend that has a first month production 67 Bus with a 66 dash. Seen 72's Buses with stock Type 1 engines that were sold here that way, etc. So you could have some 1st run 74's???????

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 9:30 am

Oh, for sure the VIN will be correct. Yeah, that was what I was getting at, maybe some '74's did have leftover D-Jet. This isn't the only possible freak VW that I have. My '85 Golf is a very, very early U.S. built version. People have told me according to VW EKTA, that official U.S. production started 10/1/84, but the sticker on my car says 9/84. Somebody claimed to have an 8/84 production car in the U.S., though, but I don't know the validity of that claim, they didn't even say what they had, probably a German built Jetta, not a Golf (European production of the Golf/Jetta II started in '83). The VIN that is stamped into the body is largely made up of Z's where there should be other letters, and ends in 0001001 IIRC. The beginning parts as well as the production number of the stamped VIN matches the dash plate, but nothing else. I believe they are supposed to match. Then, on the engine/trans. codes for the sticker in the trunk, there is EN/FN, which are Rabbit codes, 1.7L engine and trans. (sticker printed VIN matches dash plate). The car, however, has a CIS-E GX code motor in it, though '85 base model Golfs should only have CIS (almost certainly a later transplant). This is mated to an ACN transmission.

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:19 am

OK, I just went and looked, the VIN starts with 414, and it definitely has a MPS. I looked, and the infamous ex-Jose wrecked/engineless '74 has a MPS still there too.

DeathBus · Post by **DeathBus** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 10:39 am

ubercrap wrote:OK, I just went and looked, the VIN starts with 414, and it definitely has a MPS. I looked, and the infamous ex-Jose wrecked/engineless '74 has a MPS still there too.

FREAKY DEAKY!

MGVWfan · Post by **MGVWfan** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 12:25 pm

BTW, never throw a D-Jet MPS away. Even if it's leaky, it may be useful as a core for a professional rebuild, or if Ray gets those copper full load plates stamped up, for a home-brew rebuild. One thing's for sure, Bosch isn't making any more, and you've gotta have one for D-Jet to work.

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 1:00 pm

MGVWfan wrote:BTW, never throw a D-Jet MPS away. Even if it's leaky, it may be useful as a core for a professional rebuild, or if Ray gets those copper full load plates stamped up, for a home-brew rebuild. One thing's for sure, Bosch isn't making any more, and you've gotta have one for D-Jet to work.

Me throw something away?

DeathBus · Post by **DeathBus** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 1:44 pm

ubercrap wrote:
MGVWfan wrote:BTW, never throw a D-Jet MPS away. Even if it's leaky, it may be useful as a core for a professional rebuild, or if Ray gets those copper full load plates stamped up, for a home-brew rebuild. One thing's for sure, Bosch isn't making any more, and you've gotta have one for D-Jet to work.
Me throw something away?

same here

I am trying to think of where to put a Squareback carcass while I finish ripping it apart.

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 3:04 pm

Hey Ubercrap, a easy way to check if you are getting fuel to the engine is to pull the little 6mm or 7mm hex screw from the fuel rail on the driver side rail and put a gas line on it to see if you get fuel there and that's where you should put a pressure tester to test the psi and adjust the pressure regulator! You must have the same set up I have which is a Djet 1974 2door. My seat belts have 1973 on the white tag so it got the djet I think. There is a great 914 site that has djet trouble shooting and the guy is a engineer that has been working them for years like Ray.
http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJ ... .htm#parts
The bottom fuel injection points ride on a cam under the top part of the dist body; it has two sets of points one on each side you can pull the plug and test the resistance of each set of point and by movings the placement to the body will change the resistance. You probably should pull the dist and check and clean it and all the parts and lub them! It will save you in the long run. The ground wire on the point plate goes from the top to the bottom of the point plate. Also you will need to check if the vacuum can is leaking; Mine was and was a big problem! Sorry so much to check to get it to run but if the timing is off you could do a lot of harm!
Read some of my past post asking for help "wont start". You'll get her going just dont get in too much of a hurry it will cost you in the end! bill

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 3:25 pm

You may have either a very early 74 or a very late 73....or..someone may have simply swapped engines. There are no real cjanges to be made when the whole FI system, and air filter system goes with an engine. Also, if its L-jet...it will be a 1.8L.

Though the engine may be turning over....if the trigger points are gummed up....you may not be getting any injection. Turn the engine around to #1...pull the dizzy, pull the trigger points by removing the two screws. Clean them with good quality circuit cleaner. Then...using ONLY either a slip cut from a brown paper grocery sack...or 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper....NOTHING LESS....drae the strip through each contact to polish the tarnish from it. Use a piece of 2000 grit wrapped on a jewelers screwdriver to polish the 3 plug contacts. Clean the whole mess again with circuit cleaner, dry with the points propped open. Now measure the gap between the rubbing blocks of the two points sets...lightly with a caliper. They should be about .920"- .927"...anything under .920 is suspect...but servicable. Then read the resistance of each contact with reference to teh center ground contact...at the plug. Ideally...they shoul read under 1.0 ohms. Like .9 ohms to .7 ohms. They also should be not further off than .1-.2 ohms from each other. Like .9 and .7 at worst. If they are ...polish again and re-read. In a real pinch...like over 1.2 ohms resistance. Take a powerful soldering gun a nd re-flow the solder at the terminal on the back of the plug. That usually helps.
Then lube up the cam riders with high temp grease...and install.
No the resistance should not change on these triggers. They have nothing to do with variable resistance. They are simply off/on switches.
Also...check your CHT connection....check your ground points under the center plenum on the case centerline.....check that the MPS can hold vacuum. Ray

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 3:29 pm

Listen to Ray!! He helped me to get mine to turn over!! bill

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 3:31 pm

Awesome advice guys, sounds straightforward enough, I'll try to get to this stuff during this week.

Oh yeah, the 2dr. sedans w/4 spd. all had 1.7L engines, correct? That would mean that all 2dr. sedans, including '74's, would have D-Jet, if L-Jet only came on the 1.8L. Whadya think?

MGVWfan · Post by **MGVWfan** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 3:33 pm

Silly me

I should have known better, why ever throw any part of a VW away, except the rust...

MGVWfan · Post by **MGVWfan** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 5:07 pm

Oh yeah, the 2dr. sedans w/4 spd. all had 1.7L engines, correct? That would mean that all 2dr. sedans, including '74's, would have D-Jet, if L-Jet only came on the 1.8L. Whadya think?

I think you may be correct, Uber. That would explain your vehicle's config.

BTW, my favorite way to check the points, condenser, and coil is to pull the cap off, connect the center wire from the coil to an ignition tester thing (that spark-plug-with -an-alligator-clip-thing Ray alluded to above), ground the tester, make sure the points are closed, then flick them open a few times with a screwdriver while watching for spark at the tester.

Also check the resistance of the distributor rotor from the center brass contact on top to the arm on the end. There's a suppression resistance in D-Jet dizzy rotors, and it can open up, I'm told. It should be something in the 7K Ohm range, certainly not greater than 50K for proper operation.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 5:10 pm

Uh....I don't know that here were any rules thats say the two door sedans were 1.7's or not. But...once the 1.8's came on line..they were all L-jet regardless of body style as far as I knew. But then....L-jet was only used here I think....and most two doors were destined for Europe?...sort of Gray market? Don't know. But there iss no reason to think that they did not make a 74 two door coupe...and it should have all of the parts of a 74....big bumpers, variations to the dash and instruments, late struts....and L-jet 1.8L. Ray

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OK, injector seals in...

Ok

Listen to Ray!