Ball Joint or slave or provisional manual for trade
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Erik H
Ball Joint or slave or provisional manual for trade
I've obviously been collecting the wrong parts. I need a clutch master cylinder for the 412. I have ONE ball joint and clutch slave. Both NOS. I also have one of the provisional workshop manuals for the type 4. Looking to trade someone out there for that clutch master, or buy it outright. The 4speed junkers seem to have vanished in the Bay area. My apologies for the redundancy of posts.
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
You might try ESP brake in Dallas. I know the have some NOS mater cylinders for brakes on teh shelf and are an ATE dealer. 214-748-6386.
On the other hand, if your master cylinder is not pitted...like with heavy rust pits...then they are simple to rebuild.
The pistons never go bad. They do not actually contact the cylinder walls. You will need to do a very light hone with the finest grit you can get. Thats about 360 grit.
Contrary to popular methods...cross hatching from a hone on brake cylinders destroys seals. The walls should be glass smooth. These are rubber seals not iron piston rings.
Use a wooden mandrel and at least 1000 grit (preferably 1000 then 1500 or 2000) to polish the walls smooth.
The seals from any like brand 19mm master cylinder will do. For example...if it is an ATE cylinder...use seals from a type 1,2,3,4 ATE brake master cylinder kit....but not the pistons. Likewise if it is a FAG cylinder.Also use the brass compensating flap valves from the donor cylinder and use 200 grit and aflat surface to lap the areas on the pistons they contact. But...be sure the top shaft seal is the top shaft seal....and not one of the lower ones.
An easier way....and also a source for parts...is the vanagon clutch master. It is teh same diameter and stroke. In fact...it can be directly installed by making a mounting bracket from angle iron. Just be sure to sort out the fit of the residual pressure valve. Ray
On the other hand, if your master cylinder is not pitted...like with heavy rust pits...then they are simple to rebuild.
The pistons never go bad. They do not actually contact the cylinder walls. You will need to do a very light hone with the finest grit you can get. Thats about 360 grit.
Contrary to popular methods...cross hatching from a hone on brake cylinders destroys seals. The walls should be glass smooth. These are rubber seals not iron piston rings.
Use a wooden mandrel and at least 1000 grit (preferably 1000 then 1500 or 2000) to polish the walls smooth.
The seals from any like brand 19mm master cylinder will do. For example...if it is an ATE cylinder...use seals from a type 1,2,3,4 ATE brake master cylinder kit....but not the pistons. Likewise if it is a FAG cylinder.Also use the brass compensating flap valves from the donor cylinder and use 200 grit and aflat surface to lap the areas on the pistons they contact. But...be sure the top shaft seal is the top shaft seal....and not one of the lower ones.
An easier way....and also a source for parts...is the vanagon clutch master. It is teh same diameter and stroke. In fact...it can be directly installed by making a mounting bracket from angle iron. Just be sure to sort out the fit of the residual pressure valve. Ray
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Erik H
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ubercrap
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm