Making the poly radius arm bushings...

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:06 pm

I'm going to be making some more, Bill K. already has ordered some from me. I've just got to get some time, I've been absolutely swamped at work- been working ridiculous weird hours.

Bill K. · Post by **Bill K.** » Mon Feb 06, 2006 6:22 pm

I got the bushings ubercrap made for me today. Thanks! Good work.

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Mon Feb 06, 2006 11:04 pm

Oh good, I'm glad you like them. Sorry it took so long.

Wally · Post by **Wally** » Tue Feb 07, 2006 1:37 am

Picture!!

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Tue Feb 07, 2006 10:49 am

vwbill wrote:Great job Uber!!! Those look sweet!! How do you know the hardness??
Is it a standard for that material? Where did you get that stuff? If you are selling let us know! Thanks again for another great post and picture and great comments and replys! bill

Whoops, looks like I missed your post vwbill. I got the material at www.sunray-inc.com and it is a standard stock size solid rod with options of different durometers. Minimum order from them is something like $50, so I had to order substantially more material than I needed, of course. I just cut the material to length and drilled out the center. The ones I sent Bill K are an improvement over what I made for myself initially- center hole size is better. I drilled the ones on mine a little small and as a result, they got a little thicker when I stretched them over the end of the radius rod. I had to trim them down a bit. Anyway, I have plenty of material and can make them for anyone if they so desire, just send me a PM.

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Wed Feb 08, 2006 10:55 pm

Thanks for the info Uber! If you are making any keep me in mind! I will buy some!! I'll check out the material sites also! So you used a hole cut out drill atachment to cut the material center hole and outter cutout? Do you know the dimensions of the holes? Thanks Bill

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Thu Feb 09, 2006 12:52 am

vwbill wrote:Thanks for the info Uber! If you are making any keep me in mind! I will buy some!! I'll check out the material sites also! So you used a hole cut out drill atachment to cut the material center hole and outter cutout? Do you know the dimensions of the holes? Thanks Bill

Bill, I'll give you a set free for all you've done for me. It just might take me awhile. Anyway, I was experimenting with different sizes of wood boring bits to drill the center hole. On the ones I made for Bill K. I believe I used a 3/4" or a 7/8" bit, I can't remember at the moment. It is a little strange because the chunk o' polyurethane stretches when you try to drill it with this type of bit, and the hole ends up being a different size than the bit. A hole saw might be a better choice, but this was all I could find locally in the right size.

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Thu Feb 09, 2006 2:01 am

Thanks for the info Uber! Maybe Bill K. can post the measurements of the parts you sent him? Man you have been doing house restoring and had time to make parts!! Damn you the man!! Is that material hard or plyable? Is it like a hard material or soft urethane? Thanks,bill

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Thu Feb 09, 2006 5:43 am

If its the Durometer he mentioned, it is both much harder than stock...but yet pliable. Uber is doing the right stuff. Just be careful...I implore you....with the hardness. Keep an eye on the parts as teh weather changes. These things get harder with cold and softer with heat. I had to go through some trial and errr to get the right hardness and thickness. The one thing to remember....you do not want to make these overly thicker than the stock ones. If you already have a slightly harder bushing and then give it more preload by compression it, it will do two things. (1) it will totally mangle the thick forged washer at teh back. It can and will bend theear as well. The center though...should be a close fit on teh shaft. Ray

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Thu Feb 09, 2006 10:44 am

The 60 durometer material seems quite pliable to me. The old rubber bushings seemed hard to me, probably because of age? I bet they were quite soft when new. It is difficult to tell precisely what the original shape/dimensions might have been as I think they have worn/shrunk over time. Anyway guys, I'll do the best I can with the thickness, but as Ray suggested, evaluate these yourselves to check my work. If anything, I've been erring on the side of a hair too thick. Shaving them down a bit shouldn't be too hard, if necessary, with some sandpaper or a dremel.

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:41 pm

That place has a cool web site!! They have some nice stuff! So what thickness did you get? Did you layer it? Think the tube type would be easier?? What about the big front "T" bar doughnut bushings? Can you make those outta this stuff? I haven't pulled that down so I don't even know what they look like? Did you see those zero crush wheels? Cool! Any hardness any shape and size!!
Great reference Uber! Thanks again! Bill
p.s. Get them to make strut mount/bushings!! What about the idler arm bushing? Like the bronze part idea best! Hey what about the intake boot!!

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Thu Feb 09, 2006 9:58 pm

I don't know how critical those subframe donuts are? Anyway, I used, IIRC, 1.75" diameter, solid rod, red, 60 duro to make the radius arm bushings. I cut and shaved them down to be approximately the thickness of the stock bushings I took off of my wagon, which were actually in fairly good shape. Everything on the front end of that car was really nice, actually.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Fri Feb 10, 2006 4:06 pm

An easy way to figure thickness, is by installing teh flat washer and bolt onto the end of the rod without bushing. Measure gap from flange to flange. Then measure thickness of the ear/eye and the centering ring. Subtract...add about 1mm max extra thickness.

The original hardness of the rubber donuts was about 50 duro. They harden with age....and shrink. The problem with elastomers....especially Urethane....is that durometer can be deceptive. It is not only durometer you need to worry about, it is rebound energy. Two very different things. There are so many thousands of urethane compounds that there can be any combination of wearability, rebound and durometer. You do want high rebound...but not so high that it adds to much energy to pushing parts away from each other when they are compressed. It creates heat, wear and force.
How to judge the rebound factor? Almost impossible to say. The only people that get high tech into that factor....manufacture skate wheel, and die springs. (I know this because I do die cutting....and I inline skate about 100 miles a week and my skates cost about the blue book value of my car or better

)
Usually high rebound parts are very hard to scuff with say .....a sanding wheel....when compared to a urtehnae part that is known to be the same durometer but of a different make. I would not go any harder than 60. I used 80 for my very first ones and they broke the bolt in the back and bent teh washer on one trip. Snapped the bolt clean off. Ray

ubercrap · Post by **ubercrap** » Wed Feb 22, 2006 8:40 am

Hey, for any of you that have ordered these from me, it may be awhile longer. I haven't forgotten about you! I just moved to Atlanta yesterday I am living in temporary housing at the moment (apartment) and will most likely be renting a place here in a few weeks. Then, I can finish up the batch of bushings I was working on. Thanks for your patience.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Wed Feb 22, 2006 4:10 pm

I have spent a lot of time in Atlanta. At one point...about six years ago...out west off bankhead highway, there was a place that had about a dozen type 4's. They got rid of a bunch of them, but also have...like...tons of core motors and auto boxes sitting on the racks around teh place. It may be worth a look.

North of the city up near the airforce base....is one of the finest little restoration shops I have ever seen. They generally have lots of rare english cars around. They also...two years ago...still had a two door 411 out back. They also...had an NOS...in the box...rear hatch, tons of parts....and they generaly used to be the onkly shop that did factory level service for the fewother people in Atlanta besides me that drove type 4. I used to see those cars at that shop. Let me know when you start snooping around. Iwill guide you to some places. Ray