My guess is yes, but looking for confirmation. Revolks gasket going in and we are fearing the worst. I have my eye on the 411 screen in Texas just in case.
Uber thanks for the help, she runs now. Ray was spot-on in previous posts regarding leaks from windshield and fuel door handle. Water vapor is rusting everything from the inside-out. Heed the water and fix the internal leaks BEFORE installing those expensive hard to find hydraulics. I'm on my second master cylinder.....
Will post back as to Revolks US spec gasket.
Thanks
411 vs. 412 : Same windshield? OR Fear of water vs. breakage
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can86
- Posts: 87
- Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 1:34 pm
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Yes, they are the same windshield. There are a couple things to look at though. The 411/412 gasket is rather unique. The bus gaskets...front and rear windshield only....are nearly the same SIZE in cross section (though not exactly the same shape)....and can be used for the front and rear windshield of the 411/412 without too much problem. The front vanagon gaskets are very close in inb most repects to teh 411/412.
That being said, there are some steel gripper pieces that clip onto teh sides and top of the 411/412 body opening that are used to grip onto teh gasket better. You cannot use them with the bus gasket and they are not needed. I don't know about the revolks gasket....as to what its profile is....wether it is actually 411/412 profile or a version of teh bus gasket.
The easiest way to change teh gasket...is to get a razor blade and trim away...carefully ...all of the gasket that laps over the glass on the outside. Not the part that laps over the body on teh outside...just the part that laps over the glass.
When you can see the square edge of the glass all the way around, dribble some warm soapy water ore spray cleaner like fantastik onto it to break the seal from crud and water. Then push teh widshield gnetly outward.
Remove the glass and clean it carefully and prop it up .
Take the new gasket. if it is a cut and splice type....put the splice at the top. If its cut and splice...wet the groove with something like armor-all...and slip the glass into teh grrove. Wrap it tight around teh glass...and hold inm place with masking tape...so you can trim the length right. Them remove the gasket.....glue the two ends together carefully with 3m weatherstrip adhesive. Make sure you have no twists in the gasket before you do that. Let it dry overnight.
Then warm teh gasket up with a blow dryer. Wet the groove with soap and water. Put it on the glass. Slide it around the glass a little to make sure the corners are seated. It must be a decently tight fit with the glass fully seated in the groove.
You need some 1/8" vinyl coated clothesline cord. Lube it with soap and water. It wont hurt the rubber. I use two pieces. One draped across the top and pushed into the groove where the lip is that snaps into the inside. The ends should go half way down each side of teh glass. Tape them to teh glass on teh inside to keep them taught and in the groove. The other goes teh same way across the bottom and halfway up the side.
You and a trusted assistant will lift the glass onto the car. The bottom edge goes in first. This way you can make sure the seal lip laps over the body ledge at the edge of the dash. You should really be able to get that mostly in without the benefit of the cord that is in the groove. Onces its seated....have the assisatnt...push lightly....maybe 5-10 lbs of pressure...only exactly opposite on the outside where you are pulling the cord on the inside. He/she should follow your cord...pushing exactly on the outside of it. You also need to keep an eye on the top of the windshield to make sure that your pulling is not sliding the winsd shield upward. You want to start pulling the cord at one of the bottom corners and stop at the other. Let it sit for a minute...while you start the top. The sides are where all of the cords finish. I'm surethere are other start places...but I have done this about three times in this method...and have had no problems. In reality...with plenty of lube...it takes about 20 minutes Just don't push too hard. Ray
That being said, there are some steel gripper pieces that clip onto teh sides and top of the 411/412 body opening that are used to grip onto teh gasket better. You cannot use them with the bus gasket and they are not needed. I don't know about the revolks gasket....as to what its profile is....wether it is actually 411/412 profile or a version of teh bus gasket.
The easiest way to change teh gasket...is to get a razor blade and trim away...carefully ...all of the gasket that laps over the glass on the outside. Not the part that laps over the body on teh outside...just the part that laps over the glass.
When you can see the square edge of the glass all the way around, dribble some warm soapy water ore spray cleaner like fantastik onto it to break the seal from crud and water. Then push teh widshield gnetly outward.
Remove the glass and clean it carefully and prop it up .
Take the new gasket. if it is a cut and splice type....put the splice at the top. If its cut and splice...wet the groove with something like armor-all...and slip the glass into teh grrove. Wrap it tight around teh glass...and hold inm place with masking tape...so you can trim the length right. Them remove the gasket.....glue the two ends together carefully with 3m weatherstrip adhesive. Make sure you have no twists in the gasket before you do that. Let it dry overnight.
Then warm teh gasket up with a blow dryer. Wet the groove with soap and water. Put it on the glass. Slide it around the glass a little to make sure the corners are seated. It must be a decently tight fit with the glass fully seated in the groove.
You need some 1/8" vinyl coated clothesline cord. Lube it with soap and water. It wont hurt the rubber. I use two pieces. One draped across the top and pushed into the groove where the lip is that snaps into the inside. The ends should go half way down each side of teh glass. Tape them to teh glass on teh inside to keep them taught and in the groove. The other goes teh same way across the bottom and halfway up the side.
You and a trusted assistant will lift the glass onto the car. The bottom edge goes in first. This way you can make sure the seal lip laps over the body ledge at the edge of the dash. You should really be able to get that mostly in without the benefit of the cord that is in the groove. Onces its seated....have the assisatnt...push lightly....maybe 5-10 lbs of pressure...only exactly opposite on the outside where you are pulling the cord on the inside. He/she should follow your cord...pushing exactly on the outside of it. You also need to keep an eye on the top of the windshield to make sure that your pulling is not sliding the winsd shield upward. You want to start pulling the cord at one of the bottom corners and stop at the other. Let it sit for a minute...while you start the top. The sides are where all of the cords finish. I'm surethere are other start places...but I have done this about three times in this method...and have had no problems. In reality...with plenty of lube...it takes about 20 minutes Just don't push too hard. Ray
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dphdo
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Sun Mar 10, 2002 12:01 am
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Erik H
F.....ing bad news that is. just off the cuff.....think radio antenna from the left fender..... and, if your not sure the leak comes from the left side, think the right. That damn fuel door handle could be the answer. Sorry, taken the time off to get pisssssed. Nothing to report regarding the gasket instalation. Blesss St. Patty.... I'm off to the Irish Bank
i do love this town
i do love this town
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Yup...Eric is probably spot on. There are several places it can leak...but the boot that seals teh radio antenna lead under teh fender well is a big one. It is the same part as the type 3.
Also, look at the seals on your wiper spindles. They leask when they get old. Should be same as type one late....and type 3.
Also, if any accessory speakers were ever installed down by teh foot well...the sheet metal screw holes go into the wheel wells and can leak if not sealed. Ray
Also, look at the seals on your wiper spindles. They leask when they get old. Should be same as type one late....and type 3.
Also, if any accessory speakers were ever installed down by teh foot well...the sheet metal screw holes go into the wheel wells and can leak if not sealed. Ray
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dphdo
- Posts: 59
- Joined: Sun Mar 10, 2002 12:01 am
Well, I found my leak. After checking everything y'all suggested, and NOT finding it, I just pulled the dashboard because it was soooooo far up there and found a 1mm hole up underneath the metal that holds the windshield in. I plugged it with JB weld, then it started leaking through the holes where the screws went in. Sooooo, being crazed at this time (not really), I decided to pull thewindshield. I had a brand new seal, so I didn't want to cut it, so I tried to remove it intact. After the windshield broke in about 6 places (Which really wasn't a big deal since I wanted to replace it anyway since it was all scrated off, and this gave me the perfect excuse to my wife to get a new one) I found the problem.There were two, 1mm holes on the outside mounting part of the windshield where the bottom part of the windshield gasket attaches. Apparently, the water was running either between the glass and the seal dripping into the holes (unlikely as the water pooled really well at this junction), or the water was going up under the seal, finding these holes (caused by rust by the way) and pouring in. Needless to say, I repaired the rust, and will go pick up a new (well, used) windshield in a town about an hour away tomorrow to replace the one I "accidently" broke. Actually, it was an accident - I wish I hadn't broken it, but the other one I'm getting is in better condition (if the guy I talked to isn't telling me lies.
SMILES
Dale
SMILES
Dale
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wildthings
- Posts: 1171
- Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:42 am
If you have a leak between the windshield and gasket, or gasket and the body you can seal it with polyurethane caulk. Work a soft plastic tool around the edge of the gasket to break it loose from the windshield and/or body and then squirt caulk under the edge of the gasket. To get better control and higher pressure fill a 3 or 5cc syringe with caulk and use that to force the caulk into place.
You can also get a professional windshield man to do this for you. It should only cost you a twenty or so for his services.
You can also get a professional windshield man to do this for you. It should only cost you a twenty or so for his services.