Hydralic clutch ???
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vwbill
- Posts: 970
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
Hydralic clutch ???
Hey, clutch system ??. I bleed the clutch system and the clutch is nice for a few days/week then seems to start being a shift issue. I don't see fluid leakage at the clutch master or slave so is this a air leaking in maybe at a connection thread or fluid moving out via the master or air in??? Should I see a drip at the threads or nipple if it is a connection leak? Is this a rebuild issue with the clutch master? Thx, bill
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
hidrolic cluth
hi, bil , if he doo that , you have , bad rubber seal inside the cluth master cyl. buy new piston seal kit and restore ,+ you have full information for that in what i send you ,,alb.
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Albert is correct....but it can easily be either end. It is also common for the clutch slave (usually more common)....to be sucking air in. It comes from inside the bell housing end. You generally will not see fluid seepage from teh master cylinder until it totally craps out. On the slave end...small seepage ahppens. It first destroys teh boot, then spreads itself out onto teh bell housinjg walls mixing with the clutch dust....so you never see drips. You need to check for rust flecks on the outer end of teh master cylinder bore...an check for worn seals at the slave. Ray
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vwbill
- Posts: 970
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
Hey Guys, thanks for the help! The clutch master I rebuilt and the slave was a NOS part. I have been bleeding with a hand vacuum pump from the nipple on the slave cylinder and pumping it up to 20-25lbs then opening the nipple so the fluid goes into my hand pump line cup. Should I be bleeding from the reservior cap or is this still a bad rebuild of the master? Thanks bill
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
cluth master
hi, bill, you are sure you have good ajusment on the slave piston and the arm cluth , by mémory that should be 1/4" max. + sometime the nos parts are not safe at 100% + take ,,,dot 4 ,,, for your oil brake ( d,t use the dot 5 she is not good for old vw )( same for the cluth) if your oil is very black she is contaminate by the rust in the steell line or burn ,,,sometime we forget the quality of the oil ,,alb.
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Albert is correct again. Also...vacuum bleeding does not work on the clutch system. There is a residual pressure valve at the clutch master cylinder that prevents proper vacuum bleeding. Also...the internal design of the slave prevents proper bleeding without pressure.
If by chance....you are missng the residual pressure valve...the system will never bleed properly.
The very best method for bleeding the clutch...is to get one of those $5 hoses with teh spring loaded ball check valve at the end. Remove the bleeder screw and wrap lightly and carefully with teflon gas tape (the yellow kind). The seat and close the bleeder and crack it open only 1/2 turn...so it takes effort to push the pedal down. Drop teh bleeder hose into about 3" of fluid and ...slowly and firmly cycle the pedal up and down. Ray
If by chance....you are missng the residual pressure valve...the system will never bleed properly.
The very best method for bleeding the clutch...is to get one of those $5 hoses with teh spring loaded ball check valve at the end. Remove the bleeder screw and wrap lightly and carefully with teflon gas tape (the yellow kind). The seat and close the bleeder and crack it open only 1/2 turn...so it takes effort to push the pedal down. Drop teh bleeder hose into about 3" of fluid and ...slowly and firmly cycle the pedal up and down. Ray