Adjustable Caster

Bill K. · Post by **Bill K.** » Mon Apr 24, 2006 11:16 pm

What's the best way to modify the front axle carrier to get adjustable caster? It looks like the top plate is welded to a sleeve that is welded to the bottom of the axle carrier. How to remove and modify so axle carrier can move forward? How much movement? Extra movement toward front only?

Wally · Post by **Wally** » Tue Apr 25, 2006 12:56 pm

Good question; I would like to see (that means pics Ray!!

) the details on that one as well. I know now that caster does a lot for straigthline stability...

Walter

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Tue Apr 25, 2006 5:10 pm

Castor is everything on this car. When I pull the subframe out again next month I will drop a pic. The gist is...do not touch that disc welded on top. Take a look at the rearward single bolt that holds the subframe on. See how it is slotted longitudinally? That is hwat is needed in the front. The hole needs to extend rearward.....about a 1/2". This way the whole subframe can slide forward.

You can probably accomplish enopugh of this...on a mill. To be safe....i would tack-weld around teh perimeter of that disc. Ray

Bill K. · Post by **Bill K.** » Mon May 08, 2006 8:58 pm

Mill a slot towards the rear and tack weld like this?

On the bottom side a 1/2" slot will break through the spacer tube. What do you do to have the bolt head seat square? ...Weld a big spacer like on the top before slotting or just use a big washer?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Tue May 09, 2006 6:23 am

Excellent! You got it on the nose. I would tack weld the disc around the perimeter like you illustrate...simply because it was tack welded around the center...and you will remove a portion of that weld in milling. Ray

Bill K. · Post by **Bill K.** » Tue May 09, 2006 7:51 am

Thanks for the clarification Ray. i'd hate to cut into this part without assurance I'm going the right direction...

My follow-up question was about the bottom side. The spacer tube protrudes the bottom of the frame. This is where the bolt head seats. By slotting the spacer tube and frame about .5" rearward, there will not be a surface to seat the bolt on. What did you do to resolve this?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Tue May 09, 2006 8:35 am

You end up with a tube wall that looks kinda like a "C" facing backward. Without any other help, a thick, wide washer between the bolt and the tube works just fine..but has a habit of caving into the gap in the "C". You just need some support to keep teh washer level. I used a slice of 1.25" Delrin rod with an oval hole in teh middle to slip over the end of teh bushing tube and go under the washer. I had to smooth the weld as you will need to do.
The very best way to do this.....and I have not done it to mone yet.....is to take a piece of two inch bar stock...drill a 1" hole in teh center, grind it to teh same height as the end of the tube....and tack weld it on the bottom side. Then use a 2" washer and the washer has a new resting place with no interference to the inner bore. Ray