Actually lowering the bar presents a few simple problems. Since the two bolts that hold each sway bar mount are at angles to each other....you have to get creative with longer bolts and solid tubular spacers.
Problem is...that...doing the mounts this way moves the outer link ...farther back so they are out of alignment with teh hole in teh trailing arm. You only have so much flex at teh bushing. Be careful. The outer links are ...weak....when old. I hape snapped off three....and they don't grow on trees.....in fact they are unobtanium. I make my own now.
But yes...you are correct ...spacering the bar outward would work. Ray
torsion bar on 412
-
d-Mag
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 11:52 am
Well, I just installed the cranked bar into my 74 412 auotomatic wagon one hour ago and it cleared the mechanism Chris described. I have not tested it yet as I am replacing the muffler (not needed for this mod but since the car was up....) Any way I have only about 300 miles of 412 driveing under my belt so I'm not sure if I'll even notice any thing. I did the upgrade because Ray recommended it and at 50.00 for a bolt on upgrade it was to good to ignore. So to set the record straight, automatic wagons need the "cranked "or" kinked bar". Cheers, Don 
-
d-Mag
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 11:52 am
Rear Sway/ torsion bar
O.k... Car is back together and I just finished giving it a work out on the back road twisties and it makes a nice difference. Less wallow in and out of the turns so a little more fun to drive ( it wasn't terrible before but it is more stable now so it can be pushed a little harder, since it's still slow as hell uphill, this is more noticeable on the downhills.) I've yet to upgrade the rear shocks and would like to do the " Greenwood " upgrade to the front struts in the future so this mod was done on an otherwise used/worn stock car.
-
Chris Hobbs
- Posts: 74
- Joined: Sat Mar 23, 2002 12:01 am