Will this work??
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Will this work??
http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/302328036.html
will this work for a 72 411? im not sure if my car has Irs or not...
or what would it take to get this to work? beacuse my trans is going out the window.
will this work for a 72 411? im not sure if my car has Irs or not...
or what would it take to get this to work? beacuse my trans is going out the window.
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Pretty hard to put anything into a T4 except the original transmission. I do not think anything else can be made to fitt without a lot of modifications.
There is a T4 transmission for sale in the Samba classifieds for $250.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=324308
There is a T4 transmission for sale in the Samba classifieds for $250.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=324308
- func412
- Posts: 506
- Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 10:55 am
Only Type 4 gearbox will fit "bolt on". Next close canditate is Porsche 901 (AFAIK).
Be aware, that there is type 4 gearboxes available with different gear ratios also.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=104847
Be aware, that there is type 4 gearboxes available with different gear ratios also.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=104847
- ubercrap
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Auto are easy nothing to rebuilding them, you can do it yourself with few tools. If you are in Portland there are many shops that can do it for you as well, Halsey Automotive for one. Tranmission Exchange can get you the parts to do it yourself and a copy of the repair manual.
This is essentially the same tranny as used in T2's and T3's, just the ring and pinion is different.
To add performance swap over to an air cooled Vanagon torque converter while you are in there, it has a much higher stall speed for extra umph off the line. The correct Vanagon converter will have a "Z" stamped on one of the bosses where the converter mounts to the flex plate, your converter probably has a "D" stamped there.
2700+/- rpm stall verses 1700+/- stall, big difference.
This is essentially the same tranny as used in T2's and T3's, just the ring and pinion is different.
To add performance swap over to an air cooled Vanagon torque converter while you are in there, it has a much higher stall speed for extra umph off the line. The correct Vanagon converter will have a "Z" stamped on one of the bosses where the converter mounts to the flex plate, your converter probably has a "D" stamped there.
2700+/- rpm stall verses 1700+/- stall, big difference.
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I've got a beetle IRS in my 69 411 sedan.Works great.The only "real"mod that has been done was to fit a hydraulic clutch setup to use the original fluid line instead of running a wire cable.No problems so far and like stated earlier the manual is near impossible to get parts for but the auto should be an easy fix,especially in the US of A. The auto boxes can be fixed here in OZ so in the US should be no dramas....
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wildthings wrote:subimanx,
How did you manage to get your shifter aligned? Did you cut a hole in the support that runs just forward of the tranny? Do you have pictures of your install. I am sure a lot of people would like to see what you have done.
"Hopefully" I will have the engine out this week and take some pictures if you like. I'm replacing the partly dead 1700 with a 2 litre motor. I say hopefully with a bit of sarcasm...I'm sick of working on my cars!! I can't take credit for the instal as it was in the car when I got it. The manual boxes can't be rebuilt here so a replacemaent was needed.411's are far and few between Down Under so a beetle box was fitted.
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11906
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Actually the type 4 manual tranny is rebuildable. It also depends upon what you call rebuilt. In general, it is rare to find any transmission rebuild that is what one might call "complete". Its almost unheard of to find people wholesale replacing all gears and parts.
It really depends on the level of wear. You must start with a reasonable tranny.
If you have heavy differential wear, you are not really out of luck...but it is more complex. The pinion gear is pressed onto the shaft. So if you have another differential you can do the mesuring and swap the ring and pinion and set up shims.
The bearings for the differential and pinion shaft are readily available. The shims for teh counter shaft can be easily made. They came in two specific thicknesses only and their thickness is stamped on teh back. The counter shaft itself is always to be replaced. It is easily made from stock 18mm shaft and one machine operation. Its under $100. The counter shaft needles are readily available...as are sheathed needles if teh inside of teh gear is bunged up a little.
The synchros themselves...the brass part r\are rarely worn out. Usually teh hubs are worn out of spec. Careful back-shimming can restore proper gaps. The main needle clusters are rarely worn out at all....but if they are....you can go to a bearing dealer and buy new individual needles for cheap and insert them into teh plastic cages.
The last part is the mos tcomplex. The spyder gears were a very wear prone part. You can replace them with spyder and side shaft units from a late automatic...with a small amount of machine work and reshimming to the original type 4 standard differntial body. There are a lot of other small details...like resurfacing the detent marks in teh shafts...then having them hardening...and replacing the detent springs to make them stiffer...and polishing various bits...and trueing the sliding shift collars to the synchro hubs. But with dilgence and some work...you can do a rather complete rebuild including seals and gaskets....and have a superbly operating tranny...if the one you had was not hideously worn.....for about $600. Ray
It really depends on the level of wear. You must start with a reasonable tranny.
If you have heavy differential wear, you are not really out of luck...but it is more complex. The pinion gear is pressed onto the shaft. So if you have another differential you can do the mesuring and swap the ring and pinion and set up shims.
The bearings for the differential and pinion shaft are readily available. The shims for teh counter shaft can be easily made. They came in two specific thicknesses only and their thickness is stamped on teh back. The counter shaft itself is always to be replaced. It is easily made from stock 18mm shaft and one machine operation. Its under $100. The counter shaft needles are readily available...as are sheathed needles if teh inside of teh gear is bunged up a little.
The synchros themselves...the brass part r\are rarely worn out. Usually teh hubs are worn out of spec. Careful back-shimming can restore proper gaps. The main needle clusters are rarely worn out at all....but if they are....you can go to a bearing dealer and buy new individual needles for cheap and insert them into teh plastic cages.
The last part is the mos tcomplex. The spyder gears were a very wear prone part. You can replace them with spyder and side shaft units from a late automatic...with a small amount of machine work and reshimming to the original type 4 standard differntial body. There are a lot of other small details...like resurfacing the detent marks in teh shafts...then having them hardening...and replacing the detent springs to make them stiffer...and polishing various bits...and trueing the sliding shift collars to the synchro hubs. But with dilgence and some work...you can do a rather complete rebuild including seals and gaskets....and have a superbly operating tranny...if the one you had was not hideously worn.....for about $600. Ray
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- Wally
- Posts: 4563
- Joined: Mon Oct 28, 2002 12:01 am
Nice car!
T4T: 2,4ltr Type 4 Turbo engine, 10.58 1/4 mi
www.apfelbeck.nl
"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks
www.apfelbeck.nl
"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks