Interesting. I would also want to know about the porosity and hardness of this product. If its acceptable.....as wildthings noted....its a huge deal.
But bear this in mind, you can spray that in...but you still have to shape and sand it.
My worry with srayed products is that they entrain air. Entrained air means moisture. Though the zin won't rust....entrained air against steel will rust sooner or later. Also if its porus and entrains air....it will sooner or later bubble paint. Just some thoughts. Sounds cool. Ray
Possible rust repair solution.
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wildthings
- Posts: 1171
- Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:42 am
I have wondered about the porosity issue, as the coating has a rough texture and therefore may cause voids in succesive layers. Don't know. The piece I had done for my boat is three or four years old now and shows no rust while having been constantly either submerged or exposed to the elements.
I do not know if they spray any metals other than zinc, though it seems likely they could. I did not notice (or at least I don't remember) if they used a shielding gas, though I suspect they do.
I do not know if they spray any metals other than zinc, though it seems likely they could. I did not notice (or at least I don't remember) if they used a shielding gas, though I suspect they do.
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11906
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
possible rust
yes ,ray for to do one fast reepair ,, soft solder is very good ,, you see last 3years and alf , i take the soft solder with acid for home plombery 50%lead and50% étain and that stick on the steell to the perfection and very easy to sand and reepaint and afther 3years on my winther car ford tempo ,, the patch on the rocker panel is samething if i doo the job yestherday ,,for the long therm i d,t can said nothing ,, or suggest this body job,,albert
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vwbill
- Posts: 970
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
I think it would really be great for the door bottom rot issue from plugged drain holes!! I think today at a Heating/cooling supply house they had sticks of soldier that were about a 1/2" think and 8" long and 3/4" wide. Is that the stuff Ray is talking about that you can use with a torch? I was thinking for the engine deck lid of maybe drilling a hole on each side with a core type bit about a inch near the kinda bowl area where it meets the fan shroud gasket so you could get a sand blaster head in there and blast the insides clean first or after rinsing with a acetone to get that foam out
then do the clean and etch East Wood deal and then trying the Por15 stuff(or maybe Cold Gav. paint) maybe by pouring it in the holes I drilled and rolling it around in there after doing Rays soldier idea for the small holes and the latch mount area. then plugging the holes with a grommet type plug.... What do you guys think of just blasting the front fender problem area with that core hole idea and Pors15 or cold galv. paint?? Kinda like that waxy stuff they use to do at the dealerships and places for rust proofing? Did you see the post where the German guys punched out the welds and seperated the deck lid pieces? Bill
then do the clean and etch East Wood deal and then trying the Por15 stuff(or maybe Cold Gav. paint) maybe by pouring it in the holes I drilled and rolling it around in there after doing Rays soldier idea for the small holes and the latch mount area. then plugging the holes with a grommet type plug.... What do you guys think of just blasting the front fender problem area with that core hole idea and Pors15 or cold galv. paint?? Kinda like that waxy stuff they use to do at the dealerships and places for rust proofing? Did you see the post where the German guys punched out the welds and seperated the deck lid pieces? Bill
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11906
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Eastwood makes specific solder products for body soldering. They are not normal solder like for plumbing. Plumbing solder is not clean enough and does not have enough "hardness" to use in body solder.
If you read about the Eastwood product you will see that they have special alloys that are of the classic "lead" variety. They have the lowest working temperature...but are dangerous to work with when you sand them (the dust is toxic).
The lead free versions can be sanded.
When using body solder you must use a special acid free fluxing compound they sell to prep the surface.
Yes, a standard torch will work fine. The method is to use strips and bars...holding them like a stick of butter...and applying them onto teh heated surface. The temperature is quite low....so you can use rags and water to cool surrond metal parts...and should not have to get the metal very hot to apply the solder. This product does not corrode with time or entrain water.
Its worth reading up on.
Its just not cost effective to find the metal bits we need to fill teh holes in teh very curvy sheet metal we have...and also not worth the risk of high temp mig-welding to replace small bits of metal...when you think of the risk you are posing to warping the panels. I will be welding several small structural parts like a seat bottom bracket...where visual makes no difference. But I will be soldering the few rust holes I have after totally erasing the rust with acid. Ray
If you read about the Eastwood product you will see that they have special alloys that are of the classic "lead" variety. They have the lowest working temperature...but are dangerous to work with when you sand them (the dust is toxic).
The lead free versions can be sanded.
When using body solder you must use a special acid free fluxing compound they sell to prep the surface.
Yes, a standard torch will work fine. The method is to use strips and bars...holding them like a stick of butter...and applying them onto teh heated surface. The temperature is quite low....so you can use rags and water to cool surrond metal parts...and should not have to get the metal very hot to apply the solder. This product does not corrode with time or entrain water.
Its worth reading up on.
Its just not cost effective to find the metal bits we need to fill teh holes in teh very curvy sheet metal we have...and also not worth the risk of high temp mig-welding to replace small bits of metal...when you think of the risk you are posing to warping the panels. I will be welding several small structural parts like a seat bottom bracket...where visual makes no difference. But I will be soldering the few rust holes I have after totally erasing the rust with acid. Ray