front windshield
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
front windshield
hi, ray ,have you my pm,, for the original 412 glass ,, in your mail box,,albert
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11906
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Igot it. Thanks Albert. I am checking on it.
This lists both laminated and tempered glass. In the past..some manufacturers had glass that was was both laminated and tempered. Expensive.
I am sure that at least two 412 I have had for sure was laminated.
From what I r emember from one of my cars...sitting there in traffic always looking at the logo in the corner of the window...one...maybe my first 411 had a tempered glass...(so the logo said. I will inspect mine tonight. Ray
This lists both laminated and tempered glass. In the past..some manufacturers had glass that was was both laminated and tempered. Expensive.
I am sure that at least two 412 I have had for sure was laminated.
From what I r emember from one of my cars...sitting there in traffic always looking at the logo in the corner of the window...one...maybe my first 411 had a tempered glass...(so the logo said. I will inspect mine tonight. Ray
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
front windshield
hi, ray , for what i can do in traduction for this glass ,,they said for the front windshield ,, only laminate ( disponibility) and they d,t have for the wagon ,only for the 4 doors or 2 , and the rear glass is not électric ,, and if you want that you pass by your local distributor with the glass pn,,
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
windshield
on my 412-73 it is only laminate ,,
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11906
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
I have an experimental piece of glass......somewhere....that I was able to install a nearly factory....new defroster grid on.
Its not difficult.....but is tedious...and totally differnt from teh factroy method...but looks stock...and works great.
I will describe the process. Mind you...I am a screen printer so much of this was no problem. The cost...is very low.
(1) remove and clean glass.
(2) make a becnh top nest for it...inside face up.
(3) Before chemically and mechanically removing the original defroster grid....make an accurate pattern on a large sheet of 1000H or better drafting paper. The defroster grid lines will need to be...about .010" wider than stock...so they will be about .050" in width.
(4) Carefully...after chemically removing the original grid...then mask each line with a mylar tape (clean sharp edges).
You will need a small abrasive gun. Badger makes one for about $32.
Use extra fine silicone carbide grit. You need to blast all areas will there be a line or paint. The clear areas of the window should be completely masked. You only wantto blastenough to "mar" the surface. It should not beextra rough...or gritty...or have any real depth. You wnat to knock the "slickness" off...not weaken the surface.
Clean the glass with soap/degreaser and water and dry carefully.
You will need a high temp enamel. Spray a thin coat (one wire gridline at a time) on all of the lines....very thin...just to bond to the glass.
This next part is the careful part of the prep and should be done before you start the painting process.
You need to get about 1/2 pound of nickle chrome wire. The easiest to get is about .003" in diameter. If you look hard you can get .001 and .002. Those take less power and has less resistance and work better but are harder to work with.
First...reel the wire out and de-stress it. Put a little tension on each length and heat it with a blow dryer so it lays flat.
To make the grid you need the two end connector pieces (vertical) and a length for each grid sector.
Clean the nickle chrome wire wth acetone and then spray it with a thin coat of the paint.
When the first coat on both a gridline and the piece of wire is tacky but touchable....start pressing the wire into the line to stick it down. Leave about 4" at each end overlapping the vertical connector area. Use scotch magic tape to keep the wire flat and contacted to the paint stripe you layed down on the glass. Do each grid line in turn. Let dry overnight.
In the morning...inspect and use a fine brush, tape and paint to re-stick any loose spots. Let dry and use a blow dryer.
Today...you willa apply three more thin coats to each gridline of paint...until it is built up flat..and the wire is buried well....and it looks smooth.
Let dry overnight.
To connect the gridlines to the vertical connectors on the sides..each gets a double wrap around the vertical wire and then literally tie a knot so it is tight. Be careful.
The same process of sticking and painting of the vertical wire applys just like the gridlines. Before you do this secton though....glue down your original connectors...wth JB weld....onto the glass. Solder the end of the nickle chrome vertical connector wire to each flag connector before gluing it down to the glass.
Check your continuity of connectors before going further. If you are ambitious...you can put a very very small drop of solder on each joint to the vertical connector. But be careful...the resistance may get too high.
Finshing painting the end areas. Remove the maskings strips. It looks just like factory.....but has a slightly higher resistance.
Generally you need to change the resistor in the switch to make sure it heats.
I did this on a piece of type 1 glass. It works well. Make sure you check the resistance of the whole grid . It must be at least as high as the stock grid to use an unmodfied switch. If to much power is applied...the wires of nickle chrome will "burn". Yes...its a lot of work....but if you screw up...you can just remove it with solvent and start over. Ray
Its not difficult.....but is tedious...and totally differnt from teh factroy method...but looks stock...and works great.
I will describe the process. Mind you...I am a screen printer so much of this was no problem. The cost...is very low.
(1) remove and clean glass.
(2) make a becnh top nest for it...inside face up.
(3) Before chemically and mechanically removing the original defroster grid....make an accurate pattern on a large sheet of 1000H or better drafting paper. The defroster grid lines will need to be...about .010" wider than stock...so they will be about .050" in width.
(4) Carefully...after chemically removing the original grid...then mask each line with a mylar tape (clean sharp edges).
You will need a small abrasive gun. Badger makes one for about $32.
Use extra fine silicone carbide grit. You need to blast all areas will there be a line or paint. The clear areas of the window should be completely masked. You only wantto blastenough to "mar" the surface. It should not beextra rough...or gritty...or have any real depth. You wnat to knock the "slickness" off...not weaken the surface.
Clean the glass with soap/degreaser and water and dry carefully.
You will need a high temp enamel. Spray a thin coat (one wire gridline at a time) on all of the lines....very thin...just to bond to the glass.
This next part is the careful part of the prep and should be done before you start the painting process.
You need to get about 1/2 pound of nickle chrome wire. The easiest to get is about .003" in diameter. If you look hard you can get .001 and .002. Those take less power and has less resistance and work better but are harder to work with.
First...reel the wire out and de-stress it. Put a little tension on each length and heat it with a blow dryer so it lays flat.
To make the grid you need the two end connector pieces (vertical) and a length for each grid sector.
Clean the nickle chrome wire wth acetone and then spray it with a thin coat of the paint.
When the first coat on both a gridline and the piece of wire is tacky but touchable....start pressing the wire into the line to stick it down. Leave about 4" at each end overlapping the vertical connector area. Use scotch magic tape to keep the wire flat and contacted to the paint stripe you layed down on the glass. Do each grid line in turn. Let dry overnight.
In the morning...inspect and use a fine brush, tape and paint to re-stick any loose spots. Let dry and use a blow dryer.
Today...you willa apply three more thin coats to each gridline of paint...until it is built up flat..and the wire is buried well....and it looks smooth.
Let dry overnight.
To connect the gridlines to the vertical connectors on the sides..each gets a double wrap around the vertical wire and then literally tie a knot so it is tight. Be careful.
The same process of sticking and painting of the vertical wire applys just like the gridlines. Before you do this secton though....glue down your original connectors...wth JB weld....onto the glass. Solder the end of the nickle chrome vertical connector wire to each flag connector before gluing it down to the glass.
Check your continuity of connectors before going further. If you are ambitious...you can put a very very small drop of solder on each joint to the vertical connector. But be careful...the resistance may get too high.
Finshing painting the end areas. Remove the maskings strips. It looks just like factory.....but has a slightly higher resistance.
Generally you need to change the resistor in the switch to make sure it heats.
I did this on a piece of type 1 glass. It works well. Make sure you check the resistance of the whole grid . It must be at least as high as the stock grid to use an unmodfied switch. If to much power is applied...the wires of nickle chrome will "burn". Yes...its a lot of work....but if you screw up...you can just remove it with solvent and start over. Ray
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vwbill
- Posts: 970
- Joined: Sat Feb 15, 2003 12:01 am
Jcwitney has three different size replacement types too for around 50 bucks?? http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... 00/c-10101
bill
bill
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
front windshield
thanks ,,bill ,, good thing too know ,,
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jfe
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 1:31 pm
But for a rear glass of 411, 102cm minimum width, it's too much broad ? no?Jcwitney has three different size replacement types too for around 50 bucks?? http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Prod ... 00/c-10101
bill
jeremy
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
front widshield
hallo,jfe,, if you want one new rear glass , it is betther for you to buy that from ,,origlass,,italy ,, you save on the trs , and they make the glass for vw from 1963 ,,look your ,,em,,albert
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jfe
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2005 1:31 pm
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
windshield
hi, jfe,, in the américan auto parts they sale the repair kit if you want ,spécial glooe ,and wire ,, they sale 2-5 kit for that ,,look in the brake forum for the exact url,,and look in ,,cip,, 1303 spécialist