help!

wopnick · Post by **wopnick** » Thu May 03, 2007 1:14 pm

not completely sure but are the valve settings for adjustment .006 for both the intake and exhaust?

albert · Post by **albert** » Thu May 03, 2007 3:46 pm

wopnic,, wend you ask something,, geeve the model and the year of your car ,, we can geeve betther information,,, yes the adjusment for both is .006 in some old book they said 006 for intake and 008 for exhoust ,, but the général is .006 for both,,

wopnick · Post by **wopnick** » Thu May 03, 2007 5:26 pm

thanks, finally went and picked up a copy of How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive by John Muir. Great book, tis my bible in all things VW. Valve's are tuned and hummin along nicely.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Fri May 04, 2007 1:00 pm

Be careful. John Muir...bless the man....his book is NOT a great source of how to work on type 3's, 4's or fuel injection vehicles in general. He has an excellent cross match parts section in his bok for fuel injection sensors and components....but more than a few of his methods are not great. The information is limted and can cause damage in some cases. It really is a book just meant to keep your VW "alive".
I too have a copy or two of his book around. Its great reading....but the 411/412 is much more advanced than evn the last iteration of his book.

Books that will help you keep up good work on your 411/412....must haves....are the type 3 Bentley manual (brown one)...for the auto tranny section and some of the D-jet info. The clymer manual..with the gold 412 wagon on the front...for the gas heater section, shifter and powertrain adjustment sections only, the Haynes manual for 411/412 (preferably the late green colored manual with the 1.8 liter information. A copy of Henry Elfrinks fuel injection manual for basic guidlines for D-jet injection is a good reference also.. Ray

wopnick · Post by **wopnick** » Fri May 04, 2007 3:16 pm

thanks ray, will check those out. Volksie is still having some problems. Very ominous clicking sound in engine bay. Mechanic told me adjusting valves would fix it but nothin changed. btw, car is a 411, dual carb, with a 1.8. Very frustrating problem, otherwise the car is running okay, hesitates on acceleration but i'm assuming that's because of badly tuned carbs, they haven't been adjusted in a long while. any ideas on what the clicking might be?

albert · Post by **albert** » Fri May 04, 2007 4:15 pm

hi, wopnick,, look with attention the ,,tdc,,top ded center on the flyweell ,,, for that ,,reemoove all the spark plug , ,, and turn the engine by the alternator nut,, slowly ,, and look on the flyweel the ,,0,, mark or ,,1,, mark,,and wend you see the ,,0,,mark,, put long plastic rod in the spark plug hole ( piston ,,no,,1,, ),for to see if you tuch the piston ,, and see if it is on the top,, it it is on the top ,the plastic rod can go in appx.3" not more ,,( make attention for dropping the plastic rod in the hole ,, kip firm in your hand ,,, if he go farr inside the motor ,,you have the bad mark,, you are on the piston no.3 ,, mark,, reemoove the plastic rod and turn back,, for to find the secon mark,, ( opposite to the piston no,3 ) for the no,,,1,, and doo the test ,,, and afther you can adjust your valves ,, ,, before to put your spark plug ,, take the compression test on all the 4 ,, and look and compare the différence ( the compression tooll testor is very important for the vw motor ,,,the good randge is 100 to 150 to 90 it is to low ,,or your valve are bad on the ajusment ,, you can doo the comprestion test before to ajust the valve and afther ,,good luck..albert

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Fri May 04, 2007 7:17 pm

Wopnick, can you try to see where the sound is coming from with a long screw driver or rod or tubing and put it again your ear and move it around to listen where the sound is coming from??? You can really hear things with a rod on metal!! Did the sound change when you adjusted the valves at all? I was asking because you could do the tdc and rocker grab and wiggle to see if there is much play....Just to make sure you don't have a marking issue that is setting the valves wrong or push rod issue...Did you do the lights off engine bay look to see it the click is a electrical grounding to metal arching thing?? Did you check your plug lengths? Nothing in the fan areas?? If you can find the area you can rule out different things! Just don't want to be running with a dropped valve seat or rod bolt loss!! Good luck with her!! Bill

wopnick · Post by **wopnick** » Fri May 04, 2007 7:41 pm

haven't had a chance to check sound with a rod, planning on doing tomorrow, it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side of the engine. The sound did change after i adjusted the valve's, it sounded like it went away but after driving it for 5 or ten minutes the sound came back and almost louder. I'm confused about the rocker arm grab play? Are you talking about it going back and forth or side to side? And it's definetly not electrical, it's definitely internal. What are plug lengths, I'm confused? Nothing in the fan area, that all seems fine and dandy. Thanks Bill

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Fri May 04, 2007 8:50 pm

Hey Wopnick, I was talking about the spark plug lenght maybe being wrong for a plug but that is way off!! I was talking about like you said the rocker arm movement against the push rod and spinning the rod with your thumb and index to see if it is seated and if the rocker could be loose or mounted wrong.... You could do the the rock arm removal and hey check that wire spring for the push rod tubes!!! I would do a compression test like Albert said! If you pull that side rockers you could take a good look at the valve spring and valves and valve clips!!
The 412 do have that valve seat issue so be careful!! Ray and the guys can give lots of info on possible causes and test options too!! I would think that non-running test would be best till you get closer to finding the sound cause! You can do the pull the plugs and watch that side rocker movements while moving the fan or a starter swtich and just turn the motor with out compression! You did check check the number two valve to see what stroke you were on?? I think the hand turn with the rotor at that cylinder firing and looking and feeling the valve rocker slack could tell you alot! Good luck and thanks for posting you issue! Bill

albert · Post by **albert** » Sat May 05, 2007 5:08 am

wopnic,, that take 20 minutes for to take your compression test ,, this test geeve you what cylinder is in fault and i have live this bad expérience ,, i doo mistake with the mark for the piston no.3 and 1 and i start to ajust the valve by the piston ,,no,,1,,but it was on the piston no,3 ,, tdc,, that make infernal valve noise wend you start your car ,, and you d,t know if the guy beefore you never remoove the rotor shaft from the motor case ( for the points ) look if it is in the good place ,, look in your book for that ,,very important thing ,,,and if you see it is to the bad place ,, reede the book ,, and do that with very sérious attention ,, ,,he have washer onder this shaft ,, and d,t drop this washer in the case ,,, thake magnet for to remoove ,,, or ,dt, remoove , if it is in place ,,he stay stick by the oil ,, but wend you push back your rotor shat ,,, make shure it is in place and push very slowly ,, the rotor chaft ajusment is very very délicate job ,, and some book geeve bad information for this opération ,,, for to know if it is in bad position ,, look the ,,0,,mark,,, on the flywell ,, and look the rotor position,, samething in your book ,, but first take the comprestion test ,,