My fall/winter project

Pete S · Post by **Pete S** » Wed Sep 27, 2000 4:10 pm

I have not made any progress on my typeIV transplant. I guess I have read so much on what is possible to do that I totally got caught up in daydreaming about it without anything being done!
So, this is what I decided to start on soon:

-2 liter typeIV(got it!)
-H cam w/ solid lifters and HD valve springs
(need to buy from Eurorace/$170)
-1800cc heads with matchported manifolds(I started on this already).
-dual 40mm Webers(got 'em!)
-custom exhaust(got two manifolds and a great idea for an exhaust. Stay tuned!)
-050 distributor(got a smokin deal at a Porsche swap meet!)
-Will do the Joe Cali upright conversion(for now).
I'm sure that I forgot to mention something, but this will keep me busy for a while.
I'm hoping for around 110HP with this combo.
More than the 1776 that I'm currently cruisin' around with!

Pete S

Tarnx · Post by **Tarnx** » Wed Sep 27, 2000 7:57 pm

I am doing the Joe Cali conversion too. Any problems maybe we can figure it out together. I have just about every thing finished except the shroud modifications. The mods are cut and fit, cut and fit. I tried about every means of puting the metal back together short of magic and brazing is the easiest and if you are careful and braze a little at a time and cool it with a wet rag it doen't warp. I am practicing MIG welding at work on sheet metal and it takes practice lots of practice. The end result will look nicer though. Angleing your bead and pushing the wire away from the molten puddle seems to work best for running a bead. But you can still get a lot of burn througheven with the smallest wire .024 and the lowest heat. What seems to work best is just doing a series of spots, spaced about an inch apart and cooling it with a wet rag. the penetration is good and it doesn't warp. You then go back and overlap the spots a little bit at a time cooling them and changing locations. It takes time and practice but once ground down the welds disapear and it looks like it was made that way. Good luck. Also the fit of the edges should be real close as large gaps don't bridge well.

Pete S · Post by **Pete S** » Fri Sep 29, 2000 12:31 pm

Sounds like a lot of work.
I'll probably just pop rivet things together for now.
Would really like to put a Porsche shroud on, but can always do that down the road.

Pete S

vw@micron.net · Post by **vw@micron.net** » Fri Sep 29, 2000 12:46 pm

OK, I'm confused. Are their two Pete's? I know one Pete just ordered the Power Tuning Parts 911 cooling kit for his Type 1 engine. Pete, you speak German and were kind enough to mail me the copy of the Klaus catalog, right? I'm lossin it!
Steve Arndt

ViolentBlue · Post by **ViolentBlue** » Fri Sep 29, 2000 3:21 pm

I was planning on doing the 911 style shroud on my 914 transplant. But I've come across a deal on a setup that will allow me to use the original 36hp shroud, without having to do the cutting and welding (my 914 engine didn't come with the sheetmetal anyway.)

so I have a fully polished 11 blade 911 fan and surround, I have the alternator but I bunged it up while taking the setup apart, it'll still work but needs the threads fixed.

so If anyone needs an 11 blade fan for their cooling setup, let me know I'll sell this one for a decent price.

violentblue@hotmail.com

Tarnx · Post by **Tarnx** » Sat Sep 30, 2000 9:20 pm

Pop rivets work fine. I have thought about them my self. I have been working on this mod a year and I want to get things on the road. make sure the metal is securely fastened to the engine before drilling holes. The metal tends to wander even with a sharp drill bit, Clamp it good. Make sure you have the right drill bit for the pop rivets you use. The best way I could figure is to cut a strip of metal and lay it over the the two pieces of metal and pop rivet both sides of of the seam. The metal(VW shoud metal)is soft and readily forms to curves if you work from one end to another. Don't do both ends and expect it to be alright in the middle. Use steel or stainless steel rivets as aluminum rivets will set up a galvanic action and cause corrosion. This is why you use anti seize compound when placing steel sparkplugs in aluminum heads. The compound prevents the two di-simular metals from corroding. Do not be discouraged from doing this. this forum has the answers. Any problems any, just ask. I have the resoures of a major university and some very talented people available. If it can be done a way can be figured out to do it. By the way i have just about finished cutting every thing to adapt stock sheet metal for a t1 to fit the t4. It is going to look BAD. If the cops ever stop me I can claim it is stock vintage VW.

Pete S · Post by **Pete S** » Sat Sep 30, 2000 11:47 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by vw@micron.net:
<B>OK, I'm confused. Are their two Pete's? I know one Pete just ordered the Power Tuning Parts 911 cooling kit for his Type 1 engine. Pete, you speak German and were kind enough to mail me the copy of the Klaus catalog, right? I'm lossin it!
Steve Arndt</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Hi Steve,

I am the guy that is from Germany and I did send you the Klaus stuff, but I am not the guy that ordered anything from Oliver, yet.
You will know who I am, because I ALWAYS sign my posts "Pete S." !
I've run into this problem elsewhere. There was actually a guy that started to sign his name "Pete S." as well and I asked him to not do that anymore. I did notice that there is a guy over on Oliver's forum named Pete. That's not me and I wonder if Oliver is getting a little confused as well?

Regards,
"Pete S"