case reality check

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Mon Jun 19, 2006 5:32 pm

Thanks for the info SideShow!

I am waiting for the thickwalls 92s from AA to get started on the Oxy again... Been sitting for a while.

Ground clearance is needed since the bus is getting lower and the 1.5q sump hangs down. Plus the T5 is beefy! Mine would be mild though 76 crank and 92 P&Cs.

Keep us posted!

sideshow · Post by **sideshow** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 7:29 pm

Here is a very important stage of mock up where I am now confident that I can still use the block heater. I don't want to suffer any cooling system issues like a popped freeze plug.

Holy Deck Height Batman! Even using a barrel shortened one fin is nowhere near enough. An "A piston" on a long rod can barely be seen at TDC. I hope turning this down three fins gets me closer to being able to use a 1500cc hole & engine compartment seal.

51MAN · Post by **51MAN** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 10:55 am

Excuse my ignorance, but if its aircooled why would you "pop a freeze plug"???

What are the "A pistons"?

sideshow · Post by **sideshow** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 6:41 pm

Most of the freeze plugs left with the old wasser heads, but I can still be paranoid.

With traditional ACVW when you stroke them from 69mm to 80mm you change the pin height so the width remains the same. Long strokes typically use B pistons where the pin has been moved. Rare are C pistons where the pin has been moved a lot like the oil scraper is below the pin.

In my project I am trying to squeeze a giant bottom end into a small hole. Super short pistons should help my over all width. Long rods are my attempt to keep piston speeds down for skirt life. And I originally purchase much of this stuff thinking I would be using bug case.

sideshow · Post by **sideshow** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 7:35 pm

This may answer your question on why use a B piston (middle between 2 A versions of the same). A lot of deck, no work required.

But take a look at the bottom of the same.

No doubt a man designed this, who else would have a skirt that short?

sideshow · Post by **sideshow** » Fri Nov 03, 2006 9:13 pm

Making progress, well sort of.

Got my barrels and started the head stud mock up, remember that these things are 3 fins shorter than any sane person would run. Oh bother I now have to deep stud the entire case, lacking a Bridgeport I used a chop saw and a Harbor Freight Uni-Bit clone in a cordless drill.

I was a little nervous about the push rod tubs being “zero lash” without the gaskets. So far they rotate freely at this stage, but there is very little play.

Post by **Piledriver** » Tue Nov 14, 2006 8:43 pm

Sideshow, break down and buy some new Manton PRs from Jake or John and make them the right length.

You valve guides will really thank you if you get the geometry right.

sideshow · Post by **sideshow** » Wed Nov 15, 2006 5:35 pm

I wish I was to the point of push rods. The only push rod decision I have made is to use a generator style fuel pump rod. Sigh.

I am talking about the push rod tubes being at near zero lash.

I really don't want to make them custom as I need 12$ a piece water boxer tubes compare to the 2$ a piece air cooled versions with the wrong case side hole (too small). Maybe wbx/stock will work, maybe not.

I am not even deep into the bleeding from the sheet metal work stage.

So far progress has been “back ordered.” My custom barrels maybe recalled by the maker pending on some skirt measurement, lifters are 3-5 weeks out since July, exhaust parts are due 2 weeks ago, but not yet ready as of today.

tencentlife · Post by **tencentlife** » Thu Nov 16, 2006 9:36 pm

The CB- Jaycee telescoping pushrod tubes work on a wbx if you reverse them. They're 24mm (wbx tubes are 25mm) on the outer end for T1's to give more clearance for ratio rockers, but I put the large end inboard with the shim they include and a standard seal. I'm using a set on my 2.2wbx with 1.25's and they work fine, still good clearance. $90 a set, pick your color.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1395

Turbotom · Post by **Turbotom** » Mon Nov 20, 2006 8:10 am

Rocky
I have a new Scat case 101.6 T1 mains, wet sump and a Wasser 2.1. I want to build a 101.6 by 82 or 90 (I have both) sand drag motor. Would the Type 5 be stronger than the Scat case?
I know it would take some work to get it ready but I have until spring.

Thanks
Tom

sideshow · Post by **sideshow** » Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:02 pm

One of these pulleys is not like the others:

11'o clock wasser stamped steel
3'o clock wasser cast iron three grooves
7'o clock aftermarket knock off of a heavy pulley, lightened and turned down to match wasser case seal

I found a sympathetic lathe and operator and was pleasently supprised that the screw depth was not enought to require a steel sleeve.