Type 4 sills
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- Posts: 18
- Joined: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:50 am
Type 4 sills
Right, need a few ideas or suggestions on replacing repairing sills on the type 4....
I have my type 4 that i need to do the sills on, and i know the sills are hard to come by, but i would like to know if there is anyone that has got any pics or threads that they have shown how to replace/repair them.
I would be grateful if you could post them here or email me at jvdbw4lk3r *at* googlemail *dot* com or thejbabes *at* sky *dot* com
(Replace the *dot* and *at* with appropriate symbols please - doing this to eliminate spam)
Thanks
Jack
I have my type 4 that i need to do the sills on, and i know the sills are hard to come by, but i would like to know if there is anyone that has got any pics or threads that they have shown how to replace/repair them.
I would be grateful if you could post them here or email me at jvdbw4lk3r *at* googlemail *dot* com or thejbabes *at* sky *dot* com
(Replace the *dot* and *at* with appropriate symbols please - doing this to eliminate spam)
Thanks
Jack
- tuna
- Posts: 2531
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I moved this to the 411/412 forum, as it's asking about the car, not the engine. The "Type 4rum" is focussed on the engine, whereas the 411/412 is for the car.
Tuna - your friendly neighborhood moderator
Tuna - your friendly neighborhood moderator

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- raygreenwood
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- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Define sills please.....do you mean visible from the outside rust...underneath the door area? Or only visible when you open the door down in the lower area?
Body parts like this are almost exclusively only available from the junkyard. But....most of this area is not structural. If you can't get parts...the best way to work with this is to clean all rust to bare metal with a mixture of 50/50 muriatic acid and water. Then within 24 hours..treat with phosphoric acid to stop any further rust. You can then do hand body work with Eastwoods lead free low temp solder. If you are patient...you can make non rusting permanet paches that will not fall off or crack. Ray
Body parts like this are almost exclusively only available from the junkyard. But....most of this area is not structural. If you can't get parts...the best way to work with this is to clean all rust to bare metal with a mixture of 50/50 muriatic acid and water. Then within 24 hours..treat with phosphoric acid to stop any further rust. You can then do hand body work with Eastwoods lead free low temp solder. If you are patient...you can make non rusting permanet paches that will not fall off or crack. Ray
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type 4 sills
hello,,, if i can geeve you a trick,, go to your home ardware and buy ,,home chimney section,,7-8" diameter and 3-4 foots long ,, you can buy that ,stanless-steel, galvanise steell ,, or standart steell with paint on the 2 side ,, it is perfect for to do rockel panel , just cut the dimention you want and you have the good curve , and if you buy galvanise steell or stanles steell it is rust free for long term,, and you can weld that with a tig, a mig or soft solder ,,with lead 50-50 acid core ,, you can buy différent deep and not expensive ,,albert
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type 4 sills
hello,,, if i can geeve you a trick,, go to your home ardware and buy ,,home chimney section,,7-8" diameter and 3-4 foots long ,, you can buy that ,stanless-steel, galvanise steell ,, or standart steell with paint on the 2 side ,, it is perfect for to do rockel panel , just cut the dimention you want and you have the good curve , and if you buy galvanise steell or stanles steell it is rust free for long term,, and you can weld that with a tig, a mig or soft solder ,,with lead 50-50 acid core ,, you can buy différent deep and not expensive ,,albert
- ubercrap
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm
Sounds like it could work fine- a nice even curve is already bent for you, although I was told in welding class that welding galvanized steel produces potentially harmful fumes, if I recall correctly. I think it creates a bunch of popping, spattering, etc... when you are trying to weld too? Stainless can be welded to regular mild steel with a MIG and regular welding wire, I've done it when practicing welding pieces of scrap together. Not a bad idea maybe, only the joints are a potential rust source at that point, but your rockers would be much more corrosion resistant overall.
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type 4 sills
yes,, ubercrab ,, the stanless is the best but the problem is wend you reepaint that ,, for a long term job you spray first on rocker panel,, plastic gravel gard and afther you can repaint the color you want ,for the galvanise steell just grind the edges on the solding place and sold that with soft solder ( d,t use the gaz torch,,take big électric solder gun ) that d,t burn the galvanise inside of the panel and afther by the hole inside of the car you can spray rust prooff liquid ,, or zink grease ,,easy to repaint with spécial galvanise primer ,,
- Jan Peter de geus
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type 4 sills
yes peter,, i have one more suggestion for the rocker panel,, the ,,audi,,car from ,1990 is full galvanise car ,, we can cut the audi rocker panel and weld that on the 412 ,, only the welding line can rust afther many years ,,
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Here you go...been meaning to post this for a while now...sorry about the delay...not the best of pics, but one i have in my photobucket account.
i have finally bought a angle grinder and a plasma disc, so now i will try cut a section out and see if the inner sill is badly rotten or not will try to get a piec about 3 x 3 inches out as a test piece...
as soon as i have i will post a pic of the inner sill, and if it is not too bad i will then consider all the suggestions on here...[/img]
- raygreenwood
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