Holes in rear wheel well to get to dual-carbs. (need idea's)
- green1965bug
- Posts: 785
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 1:24 am
Holes in rear wheel well to get to dual-carbs. (need idea's)
How are yall, it's been a couple of years sense I've gotten on hear. I still have my 65 Bug and now I have a 1915cc engine in it with dual 44mm Webbers. Im "thinking" about cutting some holes on the sides of my wheel wells to get to plugs and idle screws. Im not real excited about doing this because my 65 bug has never been hit or really cut on and she's in great shape. I would love some ideas, suggestions and some pic's would be great. Im not excited about doing this but if I can make it look good and clean, Im probably gonna do it. It would make life so much easier. Thanks for your time. Danny............
- Eaallred
- Posts: 2485
- Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2001 12:01 am
Is it for access to the idle jets, or for the manifold nuts?
On my old street car I made a very short flat blade screwdriver (about 3/4" long total) so I could make idle jet changes (or blow them out when they plugged up) easier. I've seen really short flat blade screwdrivers at Harbor Frieght for 99 cents each that look like they would work. For the manifolds, a swivel-socket and a long extension is your friend, especially if you use the small nuts avaliable at Aircooled.Net (3/8" head with 8M threads, VERY nice!).
These are your options if you don't want to cut the wheel wells out. Otherwise, a hole saw makes about the best cut, just make sure you cut it in the right location!
On my old street car I made a very short flat blade screwdriver (about 3/4" long total) so I could make idle jet changes (or blow them out when they plugged up) easier. I've seen really short flat blade screwdrivers at Harbor Frieght for 99 cents each that look like they would work. For the manifolds, a swivel-socket and a long extension is your friend, especially if you use the small nuts avaliable at Aircooled.Net (3/8" head with 8M threads, VERY nice!).
These are your options if you don't want to cut the wheel wells out. Otherwise, a hole saw makes about the best cut, just make sure you cut it in the right location!
Eric Allred
1963 "Street Legal" Drag Bug
MegaSquirt 3 Crank Fire EFI
1963 "Street Legal" Drag Bug
MegaSquirt 3 Crank Fire EFI
- mightymanx
- Posts: 705
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 10:29 am
- green1965bug
- Posts: 785
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 1:24 am
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Yeah, Im just thinking holes only for being able to change the idle jets and maybe holes to change the spark plugs. Thanks for the idea's and it would be nice to see those pic's of Glenn's. Maybe he'll see this and point be to his pic's, thanks the the ideas! Danny...........
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FITNESSFORYOUTOO
- Posts: 176
- Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:34 pm
I did a couple of street cars like this. I made aluminum panels to replace the whole section next to the carbs. I cut it all out but one inch all the way around the triangle. I fastened the new bead rolled panels with dzus fasteners inside the fender well.
This makes it look neat and changing spark plugs and jets is a snap.
This makes it look neat and changing spark plugs and jets is a snap.
- green1965bug
- Posts: 785
- Joined: Wed Feb 25, 2004 1:24 am
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Alright cool, now that I have some idea's Im off to Low's. Thanks! Danny...........
- Dave Cormack
- Posts: 488
- Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2001 12:01 am
One of the slickest set of "Weber Windows" and "Dellorto Doors" I ever saw was back east at a car show... the guy had used the gas flap from a '68 and later Bug, and sectioned them into the rear wheel area. Spring loaded, stayed shut, and was a VW piece to boot...I took photos of them, but I'll be darned if I can find them now... I guess along those lines, you could use the square doors from an early Type 2, as well, and have them latch into place with the Bus "Church Key"....
- Tom in PA
- Posts: 639
- Joined: Thu Aug 21, 2003 3:18 pm
Just proceed with caution. I did this on my brother-in-law's bug and managed to drill through some wires running between the body panels inside the wheel well. Fortunately of all the wires, I just got one for the tail light. It took some minor surgery and some major patience to get things spliced back together. I never knew there were wires running through there
Tom in PA
Tom in PA
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Arnolds64
- Posts: 259
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 12:45 pm
Done it.
Works great. Mine are a little high. Try to get a good angle cut with a large drill bit. Just get some 3/4" ply wood and slide it between teh carb and the side wall for protection. Once you have your hole then all you have to do is slip your long 3/8" drive extension in the hole. You then reach down to the inside next to the shroud with your socket. I use a swivel head since the hole is a little off. I just got some rubber corks and push them in the holes when done. They work and do not come out.
Yeah pull the sound deadening tar boards out of the sides first so you can see the wires as mentioned and tape with them out of the way. Then drill.
Yeah pull the sound deadening tar boards out of the sides first so you can see the wires as mentioned and tape with them out of the way. Then drill.
- Eaallred
- Posts: 2485
- Joined: Fri Nov 23, 2001 12:01 am
Downside to these manifolds is they make the throttle plate "tip in" toward the outside of the manifold rather than in toward the head. Not a real big issue, but every bit helps!Cometat4 wrote:CB Performance sells a kit to turn the carbs around so the jets face the inside. Or you can get a machine shop to make adapters
CB Performance's kit is called space saver manifolds
Good Luck
RObert
Eric Allred
1963 "Street Legal" Drag Bug
MegaSquirt 3 Crank Fire EFI
1963 "Street Legal" Drag Bug
MegaSquirt 3 Crank Fire EFI