A few questions:
Is this a solid lifter engine or have they been replaced with hydraulic valve lifters?
What is your valve adjustment/lash clearance setting?
If your ignition was originally incorrect....your valve adjusting may also be incorrect.
Is this engine using an original type 4 oil pump or was it replaced with a type 1 oil pump? If you replaced it with a type 1 oil pump....great care must be taken that proper clearance between cam bear abd oil pump body is maintained. It can make noise.
What cam is installed in it? Ray
it doesn't start
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Ridge
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 1:55 am
hi Ray!
- the crankcase is a 2.0L(CU) with originally hydraulic lifters , but they were replaced by new solid ones with the new SCAT camshaft (0.430x278°)
- Valve adjustment wasn't measured ,but just uncrew adjuster till getting pushrods rotating;pushrods are the 411 1.7l which I found stronger than the 2.0L CU.
- with corrected ignition and incorrect valve adjusting, the engine may then launch anyway (incorrectly)
??
- the oil pump is the type 4 original one.
- Cylinder heads are new and stock 914 2.0L.
- the exhaust system is the 411 stock one.
- the crankcase is a 2.0L(CU) with originally hydraulic lifters , but they were replaced by new solid ones with the new SCAT camshaft (0.430x278°)
- Valve adjustment wasn't measured ,but just uncrew adjuster till getting pushrods rotating;pushrods are the 411 1.7l which I found stronger than the 2.0L CU.
- with corrected ignition and incorrect valve adjusting, the engine may then launch anyway (incorrectly)
??- the oil pump is the type 4 original one.
- Cylinder heads are new and stock 914 2.0L.
- the exhaust system is the 411 stock one.
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11906
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Valve adjustment is critical. It MUST be measured.
The adjustment method you are using is only acceptable for Chromolly steel pushrods.
The chromo steel pushrods will expand at a rate less than the cylinders and heads. The valve adjustment will go from nil when cold to about .003" when hot.
The stock aluminum pushords will go from .00-.006" when cold to about .002-.003" when heated.
If you have stock aluminum pushrods and under .004"-.006" when cold....the valve will be held open when the engine warms up.
Not only will this be noisey...but will very quickly burn the valves.
Adjust your valves before it is too late. Ray
The adjustment method you are using is only acceptable for Chromolly steel pushrods.
The chromo steel pushrods will expand at a rate less than the cylinders and heads. The valve adjustment will go from nil when cold to about .003" when hot.
The stock aluminum pushords will go from .00-.006" when cold to about .002-.003" when heated.
If you have stock aluminum pushrods and under .004"-.006" when cold....the valve will be held open when the engine warms up.
Not only will this be noisey...but will very quickly burn the valves.
Adjust your valves before it is too late. Ray
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Ridge
- Posts: 58
- Joined: Fri May 09, 2008 1:55 am
!!it could not be much clearer,thanks Ray!I hope it's not yet too late,as I just have 22km on road and the 20min of run-in
!and some VROOOM,VROOOM in the garage !!!For valve adjustment,I use to deal with mm so ,is it 0.10 for both intake and exhaust or 0.10/0.15mm or something else
?I think then this is the reason why it wasn't easy to start the engine once warm
! and also a loss of power at higher heat.I just made up my mind that this was part of the running-in
as bearings and rings are new!yet thanks Ray for your precious advices
!P.S: I think you all can see my avatar now?
Pictures will come soon !but after mecanical works better 
!