Gang: What should be the total advance on a D-Jet 1.7 automatic, with the hoses connected at the 917 advance can? If i'm reading the stats right there should be 11-14^ total vacuum advance, so at no load is it right to assume 38-41^ at 3500rpm?
I'm also curious to know if advance cans can be rebuilt, given that the 917 stroke is so hard to find in working condition.
Cars still pretty hard to tune with the 311 distributor. Vacuum modulator might be leaking, (can't wait to try to scare one of those up) all other vacuum leaks have been tracked down and eliminated. 3mm fixed orifice to replace the PCV, idle is pretty stable. 23-24mpg at 70mph, not as thrifty as I'd like. May swap in a PCV to see if the mileage comes up at speed; might leave it there too if it doesn't make the idle too lumpy.
total advance?
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Piledriver
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I always thought they needed more initial, but that sounds about right, and recurving is much harder to do on the DJet distributor, so I wouldn't go there, yet.
Set it for ~27-30 initial, and let the total fall where it will... Let the head temps decide what it likes. (You DO have a CHT, right? there is one or two for sale cheap now on the for sale forum, not by me)
Have you put a WBO2 on it to see where you are?
Modern fuels make reading plugs worse than useless.
Ray always says how critical getting the FI points set JUST right is for proper operation. (Seems like a pair of hall swicthes would be a good idea, and Ray also had a "fully sequential" mod for that at one point before life got in the way)
Set it for ~27-30 initial, and let the total fall where it will... Let the head temps decide what it likes. (You DO have a CHT, right? there is one or two for sale cheap now on the for sale forum, not by me)
Have you put a WBO2 on it to see where you are?
Modern fuels make reading plugs worse than useless.
Ray always says how critical getting the FI points set JUST right is for proper operation. (Seems like a pair of hall swicthes would be a good idea, and Ray also had a "fully sequential" mod for that at one point before life got in the way)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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btectonic
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 9:38 am
No wide band yet.
Cleaning up what appears to be a decent 205P; the points lobes are rusty and a bit pitted but that shouldn;t matter if I run a Petronix. I've read Ray's post on mild dizzy blueprinting. I'll have to use the T3 advance can for now. Trigger points are good, I've got NOS and good used spares.
Head sensor's good, air temp sensor's good, I'm pretty sure I've got the TPS dialed in right. Rebuilding a harness, from ecu to the engine, that's fiddly and slow going but will pro'ly eliminate some problems I'm not even yet aware of--the harness in there has lots of insulation breaks, lots of compromised connectors, etc.
Shop replaced the seal between the diff and the trans, new trans pan gasket and (they said) convertor seals but it's leaking. Haven't climbed under there to see where exactly. The modulator's either out of whack or leaking vacuum, shifts can be hard.
Have some spare injectors to test and compare flow rates. From time to time if I turn the ignition on and pressurize the fuel lines and then wait a bit to start the car I'll get a great plume of white smoke, esp. when I give it gas in reverse. Could be a leaky injector blowing raw gas under load. Could be the vacuum modulator.
It can be boggy in the low r's; not so good throttle response, which I attribute to the T3 dizzy. Up over 60mph it's got decent throttle response, isn't quite as snappy as it ought to be, but runs its best.
Cleaning up what appears to be a decent 205P; the points lobes are rusty and a bit pitted but that shouldn;t matter if I run a Petronix. I've read Ray's post on mild dizzy blueprinting. I'll have to use the T3 advance can for now. Trigger points are good, I've got NOS and good used spares.
Head sensor's good, air temp sensor's good, I'm pretty sure I've got the TPS dialed in right. Rebuilding a harness, from ecu to the engine, that's fiddly and slow going but will pro'ly eliminate some problems I'm not even yet aware of--the harness in there has lots of insulation breaks, lots of compromised connectors, etc.
Shop replaced the seal between the diff and the trans, new trans pan gasket and (they said) convertor seals but it's leaking. Haven't climbed under there to see where exactly. The modulator's either out of whack or leaking vacuum, shifts can be hard.
Have some spare injectors to test and compare flow rates. From time to time if I turn the ignition on and pressurize the fuel lines and then wait a bit to start the car I'll get a great plume of white smoke, esp. when I give it gas in reverse. Could be a leaky injector blowing raw gas under load. Could be the vacuum modulator.
It can be boggy in the low r's; not so good throttle response, which I attribute to the T3 dizzy. Up over 60mph it's got decent throttle response, isn't quite as snappy as it ought to be, but runs its best.