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Marc wrote:Looks like the white LR fender got replaced at one time with one for a `68-`70 - note how much lower the taillamp housing rides. It's one of my pet peeves, the `71/`72 taillights are ugly to begin with IMO but only look worse when they're hung too low - watch out for that while you're building fenders.
Does it look as though that's the factory-installed rear apron? Usually you only see those on a `74, but maybe that was stock for California emissions before that...

I have a correct rear apron for it, I'm sure that was replaced when it got hit in the rear. I will also be replacing the rear fender mount sections due to there "wrinkled" condition from previous damage and bad repairs. The more I work on it the more "thrown together to sell it" it becomes. In hind sight I should have probably passed on it, but I seem to love a challenge and I will bring it back to glory eventually. There is only a small section of the fenders that were on it that needs to be replaced due to the accident. The did a horrible repair to both fenders in the same area. The fenders split and tore in the "common" place and just were not repaired correctly. I'm pretty sure between all the rear fenders that I have I can patch these and make 1 good pair of OG ones.

Pulled the tin off the engine and only broke 1 bolt......Yaaah!!!! Started cleaning the tins up, man are some of these things bent up and there are some cracks and tears. So needless to say I will be doing some bending, welding, and painting in the future. I don't know if this is the original engine, but it has been rebuilt at one time, it does have case savers. Its the rite letter code for my year, so I'm happy with that.

The AE case did not come from the factory with "case savers", so they were installed during the course of a rebuild. There are several O.D. sizes/thread pitches which may have been used, the most common are ½"x13, m12x1.5 (Time-Sert) and m14x2.0, but I've seen 9/16" and even Keen-Serts. Any should be an improvement over stock (assuming proper installation) by virtue of increasing the thread contact area.
An important improvement that was introduced on these cases was the "sunken stud" modification, where the top-front stud at #3 cylinder is anchored more deeply in the case (using a "lower"-length stud). This staggers the stresses trying to pull the case apart at the base of #3 cylinder and nearly eliminates the incidence of cracking in this area. Be sure to verify that when the case was inserted they didn't "short-cut" the job and install that one flush like the rest.

Marc wrote:The AE case did not come from the factory with "case savers", so they were installed during the course of a rebuild.

I did say that I knew it had been rebuilt at one point, I'm not a noob to ACVW's, just supers.

Marc wrote:An important improvement that was introduced on these cases was the "sunken stud" modification, where the top-front stud at #3 cylinder is anchored more deeply in the case (using a "lower"-length stud). This staggers the stresses trying to pull the case apart at the base of #3 cylinder and nearly eliminates the incidence of cracking in this area. Be sure to verify that when the case was inserted they didn't "short-cut" the job and install that one flush like the rest.

Believe me I haven't got that far yet...still cleaning years of muck off the tins, but I will check that out.

mountainkowboy wrote:..I'm not a noob to ACVW's, just supers...

Didn't mean to impugn your knowledge, was just making that point for the benefit of future readers of this thread.

Marc wrote:

mountainkowboy wrote:..I'm not a noob to ACVW's, just supers...

Didn't mean to impugn your knowledge, was just making that point for the benefit of future readers of this thread.

No issues.....

I spent most of the day bangin on metal and I just don't think its savable. Rust and years of abuse have taken its toll on it. I've called my local VW yard and can get some OG ones for $25.00 that aren't all bent up.

So I went and picked up some beautiful OG top tins today along with the rear saddle? tin, that was so nice it even had the rubber gasket for the doghouse vent still in it. I spent the rest of the day drilling and re-tapping the screw holes on the engine and changing my generator stand that was crumbling away and doing some more cleaning on it.

Tomorrow.....tin painting.

Got a little more done today, it looks like I'm pulling the heads. I have a few oil dribblers on a couple of pushrod tubes so since the engine is out, I'll change them.

I got my "redneck" parts cleaner up and running today and got all my tins clean. It started out a nice bright lime green and ended up basic black.



I also pulled the welder out and got one of the seats mounted up on the sedans seat frames. I don't remember what they came out of, I've had them forever, but they are more comfy than the stockers with much better support. I'll store the original seats so that I have them on the outside chance that I ever sell it.

So today I got all the tins painted.....30 footers at best! I was mainly concerned with getting some paint on them to protect from rust. When I build the big engine I'll do them right.

Pulled the pass head to fix the pushrod tube oil leaks. The cylinders looked good, no ridge...the head, not so much. This engine got hot....real hot, and there are cracks starting between the valves. I don't have the scratch right now for another set of heads, so it went back together cause it was running pretty good before I pulled it. I had no leaks on the driver side so I will just re-torque the head and call it good for now. I have a little more to do on the engine before I'm ready to reinstall it and I should have it ready by tomorrow night......we'll see.

Well its finally starting to look like an engine, I am on track to stab it tomorrow morning! I still have a few things to do to the car before I start it and go for a test drive, but that should happen this week.

Got to do some things on the car itself today along with getting more done on the engine. Cleaned up the CV bolts and plates and got everything together to put the axles back in. When I pulled them I wrapped the CV's in baggies to keep the grease clean, well I guess I maxed out one of the CV joints and it came apart in the bag. I can tell ya its been a long time since I've built CV's, so I put it together the first time with the inner splined unit backwards...........DUH! The axles are in, along with the compartment rubber pieces and there's still some stuff that I need to get done on the car itself before the engine goes back in. Tomorrow will be a lost day cause I have an appointment with a realtor to look at a few houses closer to our moms houses. With the price of fuel these days.....the less miles to there house.....the better. I guess its a good thing we didn't buy where we are!

I don't see the plastic dammit in the shroud that's supposed to keep the accelerator guide tube in place. They lose efficacy over time anyway, I prefer to just put a small hoseclamp around it on the firewall side so the Bowden tube can't push it out. Lots easier now than after the engine's in.

mountainkowboy wrote:Well its finally starting to look like an engine, I am on track to stab it tomorrow morning! I still have a few things to do to the car before I start it and go for a test drive, but that should happen this week.

It looks... ah... ummm... red except for the valve covers . Lookin' good and ready to go.

Lee

Marc wrote:I don't see the plastic dammit in the shroud that's supposed to keep the accelerator guide tube in place. They lose efficacy over time anyway, I prefer to just put a small hoseclamp around it on the firewall side so the Bowden tube can't push it out. Lots easier now than after the engine's in.

Don't have one of them, but there is a hose clamp on it.

Ol'fogasaurus wrote: It looks... ah... ummm... red except for the valve covers . Lookin' good and ready to go.

Lee

Havent decided what color for the covers........black or red.