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terryly wrote:Hi rubenski I was checking into the differences between north american and European octane ratings and found this tidbit of info seems our fuels are very much the same. I run 91 octane PON but can get 94 octane which would be equivalent to 98 RON. In the future until I go down the meth injection road I will probably start using the 94 pump gas in my buggy but first will need to burn up almost a full tank of 91 dough . Pretty interesting stuff

Europe vs the States

In Europe, gas stations describe different types of gasoline based on their RON rating. It is typical to have 100, 99, 98, 97 or 95 RON with prices varying accordingly. In the States the descriptions look a lot like RON, but they are not.

Pump gas

In the United States gas stations describe the types of gasoline based on the Pump Octane Number (PON). That number is the average between RON and MON. This causes many problems.

If a fuel is 98 RON then it will be 93 PON -> 93 PUMP
If a fuel is 95 RON and 87 MON then it will be 91 PON -> 91 PUMP

Is American fuel quality bad after all?

No, not at all. Contrary to popular belief, fuel quality in the States is as good as anywhere else in Europe. Most Americans think that because they are running 91 octane fuel, their engine will blow up. It is the same as if they were using European 95oct fuel.

In our website you will find RON ratings required for each remap stage.
98/100 RON means you will need to use 93 PON in the States.

95 RON means you can use 91 PON in the States.

Now back to my previous question Does anyone know about re scaling my ITB load tables from naturally to boosted off the top of their head
Thanks guys

Wow, did'nt know. I tought the fuel in the states was lower grade than what we get in europe.

Now back to work!

They get a lower Ron then we can buy I think. So our normal is there good fuel, but they sell one lower as well I think?

Hi clonebug. Thanks for the advice I really appreciate it. I was able to do a little reading last night at MSEXTRA and I am starting to realize that I may not be able to use the ITB load algorithm as it is for naturally aspirated Independent Throttle bodies and not boosted applications. More searching it seems to see what load strategy to use. Just wanted to thank you though. Off to work

terryly wrote: ↑Thu Mar 26, 2020 7:02 am Hi clonebug. Thanks for the advice I really appreciate it. I was able to do a little reading last night at MSEXTRA and I am starting to realize that I may not be able to use the ITB load algorithm as it is for naturally aspirated Independent Throttle bodies and not boosted applications. More searching it seems to see what load strategy to use. Just wanted to thank you though. Off to work

I forgot you are using ITB mode. You will probably need to go to MAP mode or a mix of the two. ITB is probably based off throttle position. instead of load.
Either or it's not too bad to rescale. I've had to do it a few times due to increasing the boost. I now run dual tables on Ignition and VE for better resolution and I have it set to switch at 100 KPA.

I ran a hybrid setup on mine. Multiple tables, it liked Alpha-N for all non boosted cruising best. And then once manifold pressure went positive I switched to MAP based. I didn't have ITBs, but did have a huge cam that provided very little vacuum. It idled in the low 70s, cruised in the 60s and my ambient kpa is like 83. Just not much resolution. Tps based worked great.

Ok had fair amount giggles in the boosted Baja last season First struggled to try and tune with ITB mode for a couple weeks. Then I started a new tune with Alpha N and that went a lot better. Amazing performance increase while in boost !!
Due to a self induced injector glitch before adding the turbo I believe I had damaged # 3 pistons ring land. It had low compression and new blowby That's where I should have took the car off the road and replaced that piston. Did I do that NOPE Added a turbo and tried to make it thru the season. It was boosting to 8lbs on spring pressure and I was happy with a mile wide grin apart from the increasing blowby Then one day I could only achieve 6lb boost And finally while out cruising she started to rattle. Shut it down at the nearest off ramp and towed it home. On disassembly found # 3 piston ring land broken and badly scored cylinder. Bearings all look good other 3 piston and cylinders looked good as well
So where I am at now is I ordered up a set of SL1 racing 's turbo prepped port and polished Heads and intake manifolds from Shag Leon. Got a set of new JE forged pistons for the next go round. Picked up some material for some plenums I have in mind. I am wanting to go to a single throttle body set up this time from the dual 42mm IDF style throttle bodies. I am also wanting to shorten the distance between my turbo and intercooler to get some room for a single throttle body after the cooler. Also got a formula V mini sump and cover here are some pictures

I like that plenum! Never seen pipe like that

Where did you get those plenum parts? And what are the specs?

I was contemplating a similar idea but machining flats for the manifolds to bolt to.

Nice stack of parts!!!

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A515F met Tapatalk

Thanks bugguy and rubenski I thought they were kinda cool . Schweg Igot them from Ross Machine I spent a fair amount of time searching for plenums/ intakes
http://store.rossmachineracing.com/Univ ... p_196.html
Could not get their schematic drawing to copy/paste but it is on their site. They also have bellmouths or velocity stacks that key into the btm of plenums and then heavy wall tube to velocity stack.
I had the plenum material and intakes over to a welder friend of mine and he will weld them up for me. He was thinking it may be difficult to get his tig in where the flanges are closest on the intake manifold and plenum btm.
Since That was my original thought that's great. I will open the 8mm threaded flange holes on the intakes To 5/16 and then drill/tap and bolt seal with a gasket. It looks doable with the CB big beef strait manifolds but not with the CB offset manifolds I have as you may not be able to get a bolt in the inner flange holes with out clearencing.
See any problems have any advice input always appreciated. Got any thoughts on velocity in the plenums yes / no it is not to be a real high rpm motor 86a cam 6000 rpm

terryly wrote: ↑Tue Apr 06, 2021 6:15 am Thanks bugguy and rubenski I thought they were kinda cool . Schweg Igot them from Ross Machine I spent a fair amount of time searching for plenums/ intakes
http://store.rossmachineracing.com/Univ ... p_196.html
Could not get their schematic drawing to copy/paste but it is on their site. They also have bellmouths or velocity stacks that key into the btm of plenums and then heavy wall tube to velocity stack.
I had the plenum material and intakes over to a welder friend of mine and he will weld them up for me. He was thinking it may be difficult to get his tig in where the flanges are closest on the intake manifold and plenum btm.
Since That was my original thought that's great. I will open the 8mm threaded flange holes on the intakes To 5/16 and then drill/tap and bolt seal with a gasket. It looks doable with the CB big beef strait manifolds but not with the CB offset manifolds I have as you may not be able to get a bolt in the inner flange holes with out clearencing.
See any problems have any advice input always appreciated. Got any thoughts on velocity in the plenums yes / no it is not to be a real high rpm motor 86a cam 6000 rpm

Are they really 45 bucks per inch??

HAHA no that is per foot but they will sell by the inch in case you only need 7" 0r 14 " Works out to about 3.75 per inch

terryly wrote: ↑Wed Apr 07, 2021 6:42 am HAHA no that is per foot but they will sell by the inch in case you only need 7" 0r 14 " Works out to about 3.75 per inch

I just read "Now sold by inch"

Hello Shoptalk peeps. I was messing around with these plenums on the weekend and was able to get them mounted to the intake manifolds. I ended up clamping the plenums upside down on the work bench then centering/ squaring and clamping the big beef intakes to the the plenum. Then I sharpened up a 8mm stud on the bench grinder and simply turned the sharpened stud with some jamb nuts through the intake threads from the bottom side to make a center punch mark of sorts Drilled and tapped the plenums to 8x1.25 mm and drilled the threads out of the intakes. They bolt up real nice and should seal well. Saved me a bunch of thinking and measuring when I was trying to drink beer I did not drill the two intake runner holes in each plenum as I am undecided on what size to make them. The intake runner measures about 49mm at the top and I could make them the maximum size. Or down to around 45mm as the gasket is and also the btm ID of 45mm on a set of cheapo velocity stacks I have.
NOW ...... What do you all figure should I add velocity stacks or bell mouths inside the plenums ? I cant really see it hurting and should smooth /straiten the air flow into the intake. A rough measurement puts the top of the stack to the back of the valve at around 11.5" to 12" if that matters ? Intake valve size is 42mm Got any thoughts on this ?
Here is some pictures

If there are velocity stacks inside 2JZ's intake manifolds that are running 1000+ HP then it's prolly ok for you

Are you welding the plenums to your intake manifolds ?